Anyone managed to get a waxoyl coat inside their chassis like we used to do with the sills on old bangers? I was thinking you could pour it in, turn
the chassis over a couple of times, drain it out, plug the holes up airtight? Have to keep it warm mind.
Worth doing on a 7? Or has anyone? I'm planning to use mine all year round see, so it'll see a fair bit of wet.
I used Waxoyl in an aerosol can with a spry tube to squirt it into each hole drilled in the chasis. Although TBH I would spend more time/effort/money
on corrosion protection for the outside of the chasis as that's where the corrosion will take hold.
I used my car all winter and the bit that suffered the most were the front wishbones as they are completely open to the elements and get a good
blasting of water/grit/salt etc on every trip.
to be honest what's the point? if the chassis is welded up and the open tube ends plugged properly, where is the water going to get in. Any
moisture that was in the tube would most likey have been evaporated when it was getting welded. No water no rust.
My Falcon is over 12 years old, mild steel ladder chassis, undersealed and painted on the outside only but capped at the ends. When repairing it I
shone the torch down the rails, nothing no rust not a spec and I used that car everyday in all weathers.
My worry would be the rivets. The seal can't be that great, especially when the floorpan is flexing about?
Waxoyl is good, but a liability if you have to do any welding at a later date.
It is basically a parrafin wax and will catch fire easily.
I wouldn't bother with sealed chassis rails.
Using blind rivets will stop most ingress of moisture and if you are really worried, put them in with a dab of silicon sealant.
If you really must put something in, try old engine oil. I have never seen a rusty floorpan on a car with an oil leak! 
[Edited on 27/3/2008 by nitram38]
actualyl you're right .... and I've got a can of old engine oil I still haven't got around to taking to the tip. 
Old engine oil contains a lot of nasty corrosive acids, When new engine oil has corrosion inhibitor additives that break down in use and over time.
When you rivet dip it first in glue to make it watertight.
Personally I used closed rivets for the floor-pan. Also, one advantage of using sikaflex before rivetting is that it helps the seal between the
chassis rail and the floor-pan.
Waxoyl is alright but you have to drill holes in sealed chassis rails to use it (which seams a shame) and it turns your car into an oversize candle if
you do welding....
quote:
Originally posted by designer
When you rivet dip it first in glue to make it watertight.
Use Bilt-Hamber products for anything like this.
You really cant get better imo
I agree, that coating the inside would be a waste of time. That tiny little bit of water through a bolt hole will take years to rust through.
The floorpan wont (shouldnt) flex that much if you have enough rivets or screws in place. Especially if its of the correct guage.
Im not so sure about the nasty corrosive acids in the old engine oil though.... i agree you wouldnt want to wash your hands in it, but it shold be ok
if you really wanted to make a mess and have little oil patches all over your bodywork.
How's about painting it? There are enough waterproof paints out there...
Nick, did you do anything to cover up the wishbones etc? I plan on using mine everyday and wouldn't want them rusting!
i didnt waxoyl mine, favoured making the external faces better covered.
As Nick says the wishbones etc are prone to damage and rusting. Mine were powder coated. I have found that the areas where the brackets have a sharp
corner are especially prone to rusting first. Id recommend radiussing these before coating as long as rounding them off doesnt compromise strength.
Even when we use our cars all year round they still get far less use than normal cars and tend to be garaged and washed off more often. I doubt
internal corrosion will be that much of an issue. Plugging the ends and possibly sealing rivets that are exposed to the elements sounds like good
practice to me.
Old engine oil:
Dont worry about the corrosive element. When did you last see an old car with a rusting engine bay, and still covered in black oily crap? Never!
I would worry more about the handling of the old oil, the chemicals from the combustion processes are more likley to harm YOU rather thn the car.
Waxoyl is very good. Warm the tin in a bucket of hot (not boiling) water. This will make it flow a bit better.
Do NOT heat over a flame or use any form of naked flame near it. Its highly inflamable.
Hmmm... That reminds me...., warmed Waxoyl in a long nosed Parrafin gun with 60psi behind it give you a flame thrower with about an 8ft range 
We Landy Drivers, cut it with about 15% white spirit. It flows better and then sets when the spirit has eventually evaporated off.
Waxoil is a messy process, and also problematic if you need to do some welding on the chassis later.
Put an old tarp or cloth on the floor, to catch the drips. You dont want a slippery garage floor which will be an accident waiting for you to happen
upon.
Best to do it outside the garage!!
I blew mine in with a proper wax gun I got from a Show (when I had the Landy)
Excellent stuff really. I swear by it... Frequently!
Just my 2d 's worth.
Can you not still get that long thin flexible tube with a fan spray end? I used to have one for doing those old bangers.
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Do NOT heat over a flame or use any form of naked flame near it. Its highly inflamable.
Every time I hear Waxoyl mentioned, I think of this!
I've read it many times, & it still makes me giggle...