now had it been accidentally over sprayed , a nuke wouldn't budge it
My chassis paint is peeling. I degreased the chassis with marine clean, treated with metal ready then painted with POR-15. It was nice. In several
places the paint has bubbled and when pushed it is obvously not connected to the metal. I'll have to strip it back and repaint.
Should I use the remaining small tin of POR-15 or should I try something else?
recomendations please.
Is your car definately painted, and not powder coated?
Hmm, that's good to know as I thought that POR15 was the dogs danglies.... might be worth contacting them for advice...
Chris
Ah see that’s what happens when you do things properly and then the paint all falls off
now had it been accidentally over sprayed , a nuke wouldn't budge it
Overspray is the best way to paint anything. It get everywhere, always sticks even with no preperation and never seems to run! 
My chassis also peeled a little but I found that just a cellulose painted straight on to the metal seemed to adhere much better.
Steve
I've used POR-15, marine clean and metal ready on my chassis.
The only problems with bubbling I've seen have been when painting over old paint (donor parts) where I've sometimes seen a really obvious
reaction at the time of painting.
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have
happened to you. Personally I'd have a chat with Frosts (assume you got it there) and see what they say.
Tractor Chassis Black Paint from your local Agricultural Merchant.
Its black, and suitable for painting with a Yard Broom in the hands of a Farmer.
Its also Pig Piss proof.
Worked well for me on my LandRover.
Cant remember the name of it. got if off someone on a Landy Forum.
quote:
Originally posted by iank
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have happened to you.
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by iank
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have happened to you.
I now wear latex gloves when handling any parts for painting, learnt the hard way.
I used an etch primer (UPOL acid #8) realy good, just d-greased first, i.e. detergent, rinse/towel dry to stop flash rust. Then cellulose thinners
wipe one with one rage then clean wipe off with a clean on.. then etch primer.. The primer has stuck well, and when I have managed to chip it (droping
spaners/drill etc) most chips don't get though the primer... the surface is matt underneath, i.e. the chassis is etched to provide a good primer
key.
Like all painting preparation is key, i expect there was a surface film on the metal if you have adhesion problems?
The only snag is the acid #8 might react with you existing paint if you want to touch up what is existing.
Cheers
Dan
[Edited on 20/5/08 by Bluemoon]
i didn't read all the replies, so may be covering old ground... I've never heard of metal ready (may have got the name wrong and i
don't know what it is 
) but what primer did you use? was it etch primer?
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
I've never heard of metal ready (may have got the name wrong and i don't know what it is
POR-15 is a primer, and changes colour in UV.
quote:
Originally posted by iank
POR-15 is a primer, and changes colour in UV.
I degreased the engine and gearbox and then treated with metal ready before painting with POR-15.
It's nearly 6 years ago now and it still looks OK, no obvious signs of it coming off anywhere.