coozer
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 07:46 PM |
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What size wire?
Excuse me scratch builders.. what size mig wire are you using for the chassis members?
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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big_wasa
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 07:52 PM |
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0.8mm
0.6mm kinks easy in cheaper machines
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 07:55 PM |
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As above, mabye should be 0.6 but as said it's a bugger for kinking unless the wire feed set up is good. 0.8 is what we use for nearly
everything at work from car bodywork to 12mm plate.
[Edited on 28/10/09 by hillbillyracer]
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fazerruss
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 09:58 PM |
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depends what your mig welder can take. I use .8 but if I change drive rollers I could use 1mm
"if assholes could fly this place would be an airport"
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MkII
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 10:17 PM |
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definatley 0.8. 1mm wire is to heavy for 1.6mm wall tube and 0.6 wire is just crap!
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coozer
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 10:43 PM |
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Hmm, maybe i need to go on another welding course.. (only did gas and arc at the pit back in the 80's)
With the 0.8 wire all I get is a big lump whereas with 0.6 I can see whats happening and cut into the metal worming along.
Hong do get the flat ripple weld bead???
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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RichardK
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 11:09 PM |
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I use .6 just find it a bit slower and so a bit more controlled.
sounds like you need more power to me if the weld is just sitting on top.
cheers
rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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MkII
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 11:13 PM |
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to get the flat ripple weld bead you need to turn the power up and then lay the weld down like a row of tack or spot welds but only let go of the
trigger for a split second between welds to sort of keep the weld bead continuous. this is almost more difficult to describe than it is to do (as is
probably obviouse from my atempt to describe it).I would be more than happy to give you some welding lessons if you want mate.m.
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 28/10/09 at 11:39 PM |
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Yes it does sound like the power needs turned up, setting up a MIG is half the skill so i would'nt worry about not getting it right at first.
0.6 should be good for 4mm thick so ideal for what the chassis is made from but the problem of it kinking often makes the 0.8 more practical.
0.6 will be more controlable as you need less power to melt the wire itself, the extra power needed for the 0.8 may at times be just a bit on the high
side & you'll burn right through which is where the "blip blip blip" technique that MKII suggests comes in.
Which direction are you welding in? with arc/stick welding you trail the weld, the rod is pointing back at the way you've come but with MIG you
should lead the weld so the torch is pointing the way you're going.
Another thing is cleanliness, MIG is much less tolerent of contamination than stick welding but if it's all new steel you should be OK so long
as you wipe the worst of the oily coating off.
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blakep82
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| posted on 29/10/09 at 12:21 AM |
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my welder came with a roll of 0.6mm wire, and i really struggled with it. thought it was me til i changed to 0.8mm
0.8mm all the way for me!
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 29/10/09 at 11:58 AM |
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I've always found 0.6mm to be much more controllable on the lower current hobby welders. You can keep an arc sustained for longer to get heat
into the material without adding shed loads of filler.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 29/10/09 at 08:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
I've always found 0.6mm to be much more controllable on the lower current hobby welders. You can keep an arc sustained for longer to get heat
into the material without adding shed loads of filler.
All true, another thing to be remembered is that the majority of welds on a locost are only 1" long. A hobby mig is stretched enough as it is to
create enough instant heat to make a good weld right from the start, you need to pause at the start to let the weld pool swell to the correct beed
width before making the pass. This is fine with 0.6mm, but 0.8mm will give too much build before the weld pool can 'wet' out giving a lack
of penetration at the start of the weld.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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MkII
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| posted on 29/10/09 at 09:11 PM |
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quote:
All true, another thing to be remembered is that the majority of welds on a locost are only 1" long. A hobby mig is stretched enough as it is to
create enough instant heat to make a good weld right from the start, you need to pause at the start to let the weld pool swell to the correct beed
width before making the pass. This is fine with 0.6mm, but 0.8mm will give too much build before the weld pool can 'wet' out giving a lack
of penetration at the start of the weld.
.8m wire is still the correct size for the job, if the machine has'nt got the power to burn it it's the machine thats at fault not the
wire .m.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 30/10/09 at 12:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MkII
.8m wire is still the correct size for the job, if the machine has'nt got the power to burn it it's the machine thats at fault not the
wire .m.
The correct size for the job is the one that gives the best results surely...
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blakep82
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| posted on 30/10/09 at 01:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by MkII
.8m wire is still the correct size for the job, if the machine has'nt got the power to burn it it's the machine thats at fault not the
wire .m.
The correct size for the job is the one that gives the best results surely...
lol true enough. if 0.8mm was always the right one for the job, they wouldn't bother making any others
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Minicooper
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| posted on 30/10/09 at 11:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MkII
quote:
All true, another thing to be remembered is that the majority of welds on a locost are only 1" long. A hobby mig is stretched enough as it is to
create enough instant heat to make a good weld right from the start, you need to pause at the start to let the weld pool swell to the correct beed
width before making the pass. This is fine with 0.6mm, but 0.8mm will give too much build before the weld pool can 'wet' out giving a lack
of penetration at the start of the weld.
.8m wire is still the correct size for the job, if the machine has'nt got the power to burn it it's the machine thats at fault not the
wire .m.
My machine Murex Tradesman, has the option at 1.6mm wall thickness of using either .6 or .8 there is a lot of crossover with each wire, my machine
user manual lists .6 wire up to 5mm
Cheers
David
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