mrwibble
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 09:35 PM |
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waxoyl
thanks to those who replied to my paint and rivnut questions, now i need your help again. how much waxoyl am i likely to need to coat the inside of my
chassis? does anyone know the diameter of the nozzle on the waxoyl  supplied
spray gun. currently the biggest holes are m5.
cheers
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mookaloid
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 09:45 PM |
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not sure I'd worry about that - just put plugs in any open ends.
I can't see any point in adding an extra 2 or 3 Kg to the weight of the car when the steel is so thick it would take years to rust through even
if it had a daily exposure to sea water
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 09:47 PM |
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Aye the other problem is that in the summer it melts and drips out.........
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mrwibble
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 09:49 PM |
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ok... not overly concerned about 2-3kg when its total weight will be around 550-600kg anyway, i think it will be silly enough as it is... but if you
think its not worth the effort, i'm just keen to do the best job i can while i can...
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Andybarbet
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 10:09 PM |
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Im with Mr Wibble on this one, i am planning on popping a bit in each hole as i drill them, surely its got to limit the rot, the reason im building a
kit with a new chassis is because i got tired of cutting rot from classic cars.
Also, some of the guys on here are already dealing with rust issues even after 2 or 3 yeras of weekend use.
Give a man a fish & it will feed him for a day, give him a fishing rod & you've saved a fish.
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 10:30 PM |
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Make sure all your welding is done before applying any corrosion protection.
Another cheaper alternative is Boiled Linseed Oil, was sprayed into the 4130 alloy fusilage of vintage aircraft, then the fusilage was turned and
rolled to coat the interior tubes.
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tomprescott
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| posted on 29/3/10 at 10:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Andybarbet
Im with Mr Wibble on this one, i am planning on popping a bit in each hole as i drill them, surely its got to limit the rot, the reason im building a
kit with a new chassis is because i got tired of cutting rot from classic cars.
Also, some of the guys on here are already dealing with rust issues even after 2 or 3 yeras of weekend use.
+1
A bird in the hand....
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hicost blade
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 11:54 AM |
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And it stops any bits of crud/cut off rivet ends rattling inside the tubes....
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Brommers
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 12:36 PM |
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Get some Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can. Then just give the insides of the tubes a good spray when you drill the rivet holes. Easy. One can will do
the whole chassis.
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 01:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Brommers
Get some Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can. Then just give the insides of the tubes a good spray when you drill the rivet holes. Easy. One can will do
the whole chassis.
Yep about 1ltr, I would still by the "big" can of clear waxylo (retangular one forget how many ltrs, 2.5?)..
I mix with with white spirit (~10%) and spray with a paraffin gun on the compressor. I want to get a wax injector/spray kit though to do the tubes
(intend doing the kit and our puck caravan).
As to the why bother it will not harm, and I don't want it rusting way either, in my experience the stuff works!
Dan
[Edited on 30/3/10 by Bluemoon]
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kb58
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 01:52 PM |
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If the tubes are fully-welded, and the rivets either closed-end or sealed, whatever trapped oxygen gets consumed forming interior surface rust. Once
it's consumed, the rust stops advancing. Nothing additional is needed for rust-prevention unless tube ends are left open or open-end rivets
used.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 03:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kb58
If the tubes are fully-welded, and the rivets either closed-end or sealed, whatever trapped oxygen gets consumed forming interior surface rust. Once
it's consumed, the rust stops advancing. Nothing additional is needed for rust-prevention unless tube ends are left open or open-end rivets
used.
yes in principle, but there are rivenuts, then also rivets can fret over time causing leaks etc. Thing is how much oxygen do you need to cause rust?
Also I would guess if the Oxygen is trapped with a bit of water causes rust, you would then have a partial vacuum drawing in more air+water though
very small holes, and thus it would need to be 100% hermetically sealed to stop this....
So I think your correct in principle but in the Uk with the amount of rain+salt on the roads belt and braces would seem a good idea.
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zebedee
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 03:17 PM |
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I have noticed that rust most often starts or occurs at the welds.
Whether it is due to burning off any oil present, or most likely due to
dissimilarity between the material being welded and the welding stick
I've seen rusting at the weld so many times over the years, I'd always go for the waxoyl option.
If I was a builder that is. 
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 07:30 PM |
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Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder
coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight
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mrwibble
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 08:58 PM |
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hmm dinitrol u say sounds like a good idea, as i'm worried about getting the nozzle in the hole... take that as u like
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kb58
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| posted on 30/3/10 at 10:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder
coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight
When you stripped it down, how did the inside of the tubes look?
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 31/3/10 at 04:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder
coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight
Yep that;s why I put the waxylo on the outside two to cover any pinholes... Can't harm, clear wyxol looks o.k if you apply with a rag (hence
2.5ltr tin!)..
Kinda wish I had the chassis hot zinc sprayed (about the same cost as powder coating!), but any welding after this is a problem..
Dan
[Edited on 31/3/10 by Bluemoon]
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