Bluemoon
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posted on 14/6/04 at 06:05 PM |
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chassis paint
Hello All,
Just picked up a MK Indy chassis from MK this weekend. It's currently unpainted, and will need to be stored for a couple of months before the
build starts (its actualy on our wedding list, and we wanted it on display at the reception!). So it's going to need some rust protection.
What would people recomend for protecting the chassis? My fellings at the moment are to apply some primer after cleaing..
Cheers, Dan
[Edited on 14/6/04 by Bluemoon]
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JoelP
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posted on 14/6/04 at 06:21 PM |
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twat computer just lost my answer... ah well, here we go again...
painting is easiest, a layer or two of any rust paint is ok for storage, but will crack or chip quickly on the road. many layers plus a top coat(s) of
household gloss is better. Powder coating is better still but its annoying if you realise you need to weld something else on.
Horses for courses i guess.
hope the wedding goes well anyway!
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Dusty
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posted on 14/6/04 at 06:42 PM |
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Just don't use Hamerite.
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phelpsa
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posted on 14/6/04 at 07:01 PM |
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Why not?
Adam
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theconrodkid
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posted on 14/6/04 at 07:04 PM |
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red lead is best for primer ,then a good quality household gloss,summat like dulux is best
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Chris_R
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posted on 14/6/04 at 07:44 PM |
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The body-shop guy at our local college mentioned that primer without a top coat is no protection at all. Primer's porous and will allow moisture
to penetrate to the chassis, but that's only what i've been told.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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Hellfire
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posted on 14/6/04 at 09:06 PM |
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Just get it protected quick - even temporary-permanent is better than temporary. Don't use anything which may compromise the first coat
tho'... grease etc...
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JoelP
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posted on 14/6/04 at 09:08 PM |
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hammerite isnt as bad as people make out, yes it chips, but i didnt degrease most of mine and after 2 coats it looks ok. gonna do a top gloss later.
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Peteff
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posted on 14/6/04 at 09:25 PM |
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Zinc primer is o.k. Ordinary primer needs painting over as soon as possible.If you use gloss or enamel thin it with a bit of white spirit and you will
get less brush marks as they run out.Several thin coats are better than a thick one as you get more cover and spot the bits you missed first time.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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James
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posted on 15/6/04 at 10:24 AM |
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I first cleaned it with The Tool (cup shaped wirebrush on angle grinder) followed by rubbing down with cellulose thinners. (Cheap from motor factor,
expensive from Halfords).
Then a can of Screwfix' Red Oxide primer which is great. I did three coats with one £5 tin!
I then did 3 coats of B&Q exterior black gloss. Followed by multiple more coats in particularly rust vulnerable areas.
Total cost under 20quid!
James
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Terrapin_racing
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posted on 15/6/04 at 11:21 AM |
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POR15 from
http://www.frost.co.uk
is excellent stuff
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locoboy
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posted on 15/6/04 at 11:36 AM |
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Tooled it first, 2 coats of marine primer, 3 in some areas (that should stop the bugger rusting!), then 2 coats of re-jenolite coach paint from
halfords.
Total cost inc TOOL, £21, (boat paint was free from work
ATB
Locoboy
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Hellfire
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posted on 15/6/04 at 11:40 AM |
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Dan,
whereabouts are you based? I may know somewhere that will powder coat it cheaply.
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