BigDawgV8
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| posted on 9/1/11 at 09:48 AM |
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Chassis Galvanizing Costs
Hi All,
I'm thinking of getting a chassis galvanised.
It's not a space-frame, more like a 1/2 scale Land Rover ladder frame.
Anyone know what the going rate for galvanising this would be?
Thanks again.
Martin
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s6otty
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| posted on 9/1/11 at 10:54 AM |
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Work on about £80 - £120, better if you can get it done as a cash job, as most Galvanizers have a minimum order value of somewhere near that!
One other thing - make sure every hollow section is vented! Otherwise you'll be in for a shock!
Scott
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 9/1/11 at 12:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by s6otty
Work on about £80 - £120, better if you can get it done as a cash job, as most Galvanizers have a minimum order value of somewhere near that!
One other thing - make sure every hollow section is vented! Otherwise you'll be in for a shock!
Scott
at least a 13 mm hole....or kapow
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s6otty
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| posted on 9/1/11 at 08:06 PM |
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Oh Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 9/1/11 at 11:41 PM |
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I remember reading about hot dip galv possibly leading to twists in metal work, could it happen to the chassis or is it too well braced?
Worth k owing. Probably not a problem, but thought I ask.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 10/1/11 at 01:52 AM |
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Yup, generally accepted answer is "dont do it" due to the thermal stresses involved.
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mad4x4
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| posted on 10/1/11 at 07:12 AM |
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OOOH - back to the Galvi Thread -
Here goes- Look at ZINGA www.zinga.co.uk - Five years on and chassis is still like NEW
[Edited on 10/101/11 by mad4x4]
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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balidey
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| posted on 10/1/11 at 08:17 AM |
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OK, most people know about the thermal / twisting problem and the vented section / explosion problem, but there is another consideration that could
hit your wallet.
If there is a vented section you need it vented well at both ends. One reason is to let air out and zinc in, but you also need to let the zinc drain
out again. Same with open sections like channels, depending on how its hung when its dipped you can get a huge build up zinc in the corners if its not
got holes or clearance notches.
This is a big problem as your part is weighed before dipping and then after dipping and you are charged for the weight difference, ie how much zinc
you are using. And if you 'fill up' a chassis it gets veeerryy expensive.
Best thing you can do is speak to your galvanisers first, they will advise best places for vent holes, drain holes, hanging holes and if any extra
bracing may need adding and where. And ask for their price on hole drilling as if you miss off a hole and it needs drilling just before they dip it
they will do it for you...... usually at a very high price.
Dutch bears have terrible skin due to their clogged paws
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/1/11 at 09:04 AM |
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^^^ what he said
I was shown a cobra chassis (boxed ladder type) that hadn't been vented properly and one side had worked, but the other had about 30-40kg of
zinc stuck in it
they had put quite a few holes in but not enough, as alot depends on how hold it when they dip it...
best to talk to the place your going to use and see what they recommend before you spend any money
this lists most of the ones in this country: Galvanizers
Association
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 10/1/11 at 10:14 AM |
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Just a thought, don't discount hot zinc spray, less distortion same protection (but you can obovoulsy NOT coat surfaces that can't be
sprayed). Costs were comparable to powder coating when I looked 5 years ago. Wish I had done this, but I needed to do some welding during construction
so just went for good paints.. If I ever strip back to the chassis I will do this then..
Dan
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 12:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Yup, generally accepted answer is "dont do it" due to the thermal stresses involved.
Aye, this is the advice I was given by a galvanising firm when I looked into it.
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alfas
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| posted on 21/2/11 at 05:34 PM |
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if done properly it works perfect..even with a spaceframe chassis.
have done mine...no distortion at all...and no rust for ever!!!!
[Edited on 21/2/11 by alfas]
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wilkingj
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| posted on 26/2/11 at 12:20 AM |
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Nowt wrong with a sandblast and then painting, or even powder coating.
The finish and quality is ALWAYS dependent on the quality of the prep work. Hence the sandblast to give a good clean surface for the Paint or Powder
coating to key into.
What ever you end up doing, do it properly, and right first time.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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alfas
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| posted on 26/2/11 at 09:42 AM |
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if you go for powder coat, visit certain companies in advance and ask them how they do the coating.
powdercoating is not applied directly on the bare metal surface. that has been done in the past and therefore most of the 90ies chassiss the coating
started flaking after a view years or even earlier. if the company is still working like that its a direct walk-away!!!!
today the powder is applicated after a mechanical cleaning process (typical blasting), followed by chemical cleaning, than a conversion layer (typical
for ferro-metal surfaces is zinc-phosphating) and finally the powdercoating.
if one of these steps is missing, especially the phosphating, the powder coat will not last and its a straight walk-away from that company.
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