britishtrident
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posted on 7/2/11 at 12:05 PM |
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Powder coating will cost more than the complete rolling chasis will be worth. £40 per ton
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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sooty
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posted on 7/2/11 at 07:17 PM |
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Thanks for the replies,
But what about Galvanising instead of Powder coating. Would this have more protection for the chassis.
thanks
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kb58
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posted on 7/2/11 at 08:05 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by interestedparty
Thing to do when thinking about a kit is to weight up ALL the costs. It's no good having a low buying in price if it mens that you are going to
have problems along the way, and it's no good asking people who have already got one whether they bought the right kit or not, because they are
hardly likely to say they bought the wrong one...
You really think so? I find it's the other way round, that people LOVE to complain about things - especially on-line when they're
anonymous.
[Edited on 2/7/11 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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kb58
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posted on 7/2/11 at 08:08 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by sooty
Thanks for the replies,
But what about Galvanising instead of Powder coating. Would this have more protection for the chassis.
thanks
Yes, though paint serves other purposes besides corrosion-protection, like looking pretty. If you get it galvanised, then what, leave it bare?
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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interestedparty
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posted on 7/2/11 at 09:37 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by kb58
quote: Originally posted by interestedparty
Thing to do when thinking about a kit is to weight up ALL the costs. It's no good having a low buying in price if it mens that you are going to
have problems along the way, and it's no good asking people who have already got one whether they bought the right kit or not, because they are
hardly likely to say they bought the wrong one...
You really think so? I find it's the other way round, that people LOVE to complain about things - especially on-line when they're
anonymous.
By the time people have bought a kit, and want to tell people which one it is, and roughly where they live, they aren't quite so anonymous any
more. But I take your point, it's just that I don't agree with it.
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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Fred W B
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posted on 8/2/11 at 04:13 PM |
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A mate of mine has a buisness that makes decorative and ornate security fences/gates etc for very expensive houses. He swears the best and only way to
make carbon steel fabrications stay looking good for a long time outside is to galvanize and then powder coat over the galvanizing.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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kb58
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posted on 8/2/11 at 11:29 PM |
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We just had that very process applied to our security door. A typical doors lasts about 5-yrs and rusts away, then it's another $80-$160US for a
new one. For $200US we had this one stripped, galvanized, and powdercoated. We'll see how long it lasts this time.
[Edited on 2/8/11 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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James
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posted on 18/2/11 at 01:01 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by sooty
Thanks for the replies,
But what about Galvanising instead of Powder coating. Would this have more protection for the chassis.
thanks
For various reasons that I can't be bothered to type here (and it's been discussed like 100 times so you can search) I would say forget
about galvanising now. Are GBS offering it as a service?
At the end of the day, how much do you think a car that's only used in the dry 90% of the time needs this level of protection?
Paint or powdercoat is fine.
If you don't want to spend £240 on powdercoat then I bought a tin of red oxide undercoat for £10 (couple of coats, more in 'exposed'
areas) and a tin of Homebase Black exterior gloss for £18 (again, couple of coats, more in exposed areas- 5 maybe!).
Use a gloss roller if you dont want brush marks.
4.5 years after SVA and storage in a damp garage and no sign of rust yet.
Cheers,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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sooty
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posted on 18/2/11 at 09:49 PM |
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OK Guys,
Thanks for all your comments and tips etc.
In the end I finally decided not to go for a Zero. Weighing up the overall costs for the Car when completed and then the IVA costs fail or pass, also
comments from friends who already have Kitcars IE Westfields and Robin hoods.
I've gone for a Robin Hood already completed, SVA'd and good condition. Which I can modify as when and how I want over a period of time
and enjoy the thrills now rather than 5 or 6 months when the summer is coming to an end.
Again thanks for help shown.
Tel
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MikeRJ
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posted on 19/2/11 at 10:29 AM |
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I hope it wasn't a 2B or one of the older monocoque abortions. Unfortunately the (well deserved) reputation of the older models has rubbed off
onto the zero with a lot of people suggesting it's crap when it really isn't a bad car at all.
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sooty
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posted on 19/2/11 at 10:50 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by MikeRJ
I hope it wasn't a 2B or one of the older monocoque abortions. Unfortunately the (well deserved) reputation of the older models has rubbed off
onto the zero with a lot of people suggesting it's crap when it really isn't a bad car at all.
OK,
Explain yourself alittle more about the so called Robin Hood abortions you mentioned.
Thanks
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britishtrident
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posted on 19/2/11 at 10:54 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by sooty
OK Guys,
Thanks for all your comments and tips etc.
In the end I finally decided not to go for a Zero. Weighing up the overall costs for the Car when completed and then the IVA costs fail or pass, also
comments from friends who already have Kitcars IE Westfields and Robin hoods.
I've gone for a Robin Hood already completed, SVA'd and good condition. Which I can modify as when and how I want over a period of time
and enjoy the thrills now rather than 5 or 6 months when the summer is coming to an end.
Again thanks for help shown.
Tel
Hopefully you still have time to back out of the deal ?
I strongly advise do a forum search on "Robin Hood" or "2b" and read the concerns raised.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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DRC INDY 7
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posted on 19/2/11 at 07:42 PM |
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I built a robin hood 2b for some body what a joke of a kit and what with all the mods that have to be done and the extra expense to make it look
something like nice
Could have bought a westfield mk mnr etc
still i wish you well with you're robin hood end of the day it's you're choice
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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