Ciaran
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 04:54 AM |
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Best rivnuts?
About to strip my kit car for a bit of welding and would like the replace every rivet with a rivnut.
Any reccomended type? Best tool?
I have used them before but was very hard to make off the rivnut itself with the tool provided.
Is there any sort of rivnut that is better designed to stop it spinning on removal?
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907
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 06:43 AM |
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MEMfast without a doubt.
Some of their rivets have serrations to stop them spinning, and taking the burr of the hole with a badly sharpened drill, we've all got some of
them, will also help.
Some de-burring "star" bits leave a vibe edge as well.
Used with copperslip on the tool will leave some in the rivnut thread which will aid removal of the screw in the future.
I think I have 4 pop rivets on my car. I must have had a brainstorm that day.
If I could find them I'd replace them..... but I can't remember where they are. 
Paul G
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 08:06 AM |
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Use knurled rivnuts and they'll very rarely spin (the plain shanked ones are a east of space).
I got mine with s tool similar to a river gun and don't have any issues (sorry don't know make). The memfast tool is well recommended but
a bit slower to use.
Remember that rivnuts require bigger holes in you chassis than rivets so that can be a consideration.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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nick205
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 08:30 AM |
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Can we ask why you want to replace rivets with rivnuts?
I can see it would make the panels removable, but rivnuts require larger holes than rivets. Surely you'd be weakening the chassis rails by
making the holes larger.
Do you need the panels to be removable?
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Charlie C
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 08:49 AM |
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I've used the tabs for my rivnuts avoiding drilling the chassis eBay Item
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nick205
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 10:06 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Charlie C
I've used the tabs for my rivnuts avoiding drilling the chassis eBay Item
Seems an OK, but over complicated soluntion. Lots more welding and costly threaded fixings. Certainly for my build (and for many others) rivets seem
to do the job. Rivets aren't that expensive either.
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Ciaran
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 10:46 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Can we ask why you want to replace rivets with rivnuts?
I can see it would make the panels removable, but rivnuts require larger holes than rivets. Surely you'd be weakening the chassis rails by
making the holes larger.
Do you need the panels to be removable?
Mostly just so that if I do need to take the floor off the car again it’s simple
instead of having to drill out dozens of rivets every time
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nick205
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 10:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ciaran
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Can we ask why you want to replace rivets with rivnuts?
I can see it would make the panels removable, but rivnuts require larger holes than rivets. Surely you'd be weakening the chassis rails by
making the holes larger.
Do you need the panels to be removable?
Mostly just so that if I do need to take the floor off the car again it’s simple
instead of having to drill out dozens of rivets every time
Never had to remove my floor panel, but I guess you may have to.
I fitted my tunnel top with rivnuts for easier removal, but even that only came off once or maybe twice in 3-4 years.
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JimSpencer
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 02:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ciaran
About to strip my kit car for a bit of welding and would like the replace every rivet with a rivnut.
Any reccomended type? Best tool?
I have used them before but was very hard to make off the rivnut itself with the tool provided.
Is there any sort of rivnut that is better designed to stop it spinning on removal?
Hi
Not sure that's a good idea the alloy panels are normally bonded and riveted to the spaceframe to increase its rigidity.
Using just rivnuts will reduce that rigidity and make it porous (the adhesive has the secondary effect of sealing the gap between the panels and the
frame so making it less likely to get water in the chassis tubes.)
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ReMan
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 05:46 PM |
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Agreed of all the places/things to rivnut the floor is probably not it
[Edited on 14/4/18 by ReMan]
www.plusnine.co.uk
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J666AYP
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 05:59 PM |
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The cheap ones from toolstation have always worked well for me.
Jay
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loggyboy
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 08:12 PM |
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Agree with the above comments as to is a removable floor much of a benefit. Chassis strength is more important than removal of a part that should only
need to be removed on a major refurbishment. Holes for an m3 rivet are 5mm, you wont bet much torque on a m3 bolt, and you wouldnt want holes much
bigger than 5mm in the chassis rails.
Mistral Motorsport
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Ciaran
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| posted on 13/4/18 at 08:36 PM |
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Okay point taken will stick with rivets.
Floor coming off to remove the prop and rear diff and the the whole body as all the welds around the rear diff mounting point are cracked
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nick205
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| posted on 16/4/18 at 02:53 PM |
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If there are cracked welds on the chassis is it not worth considering rebuilding with a new chassis?
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907
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| posted on 16/4/18 at 03:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
If there are cracked welds on the chassis is it not worth considering rebuilding with a new chassis?
If I may add to your post Nick, check your life insurance is up to date. 
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Ciaran
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| posted on 17/4/18 at 04:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
If there are cracked welds on the chassis is it not worth considering rebuilding with a new chassis?
MNR changed the chassis to an inboard suspension set up and original chassis no longer available.
Probably my fault to be fair. 13k hitting a damp spot followed by dry road so 7 rpm of momentum has to go somewhere
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