andyd
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| posted on 31/8/05 at 11:04 PM |
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Internal rusting
As a chassis will generally take most of us a good while to complete, surface rust will have formed on the tubes. Presumably this means that rust
will also form inside the tube assuming the ends aren't boxed in immediately. Does anyone think this will cause an issue in years to come or
will it not matter once all the holes are filled and air can't circulate? I'd spray waxoil or equiv into the tubes but it's the
initial rusting during fabrication that I'm thinking about.
Am I worrying without need?
[Edited on 31/8/2005 by andyd]
Andy
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Markp
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| posted on 31/8/05 at 11:15 PM |
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To be honest I agree, it's something I have thought about many times. I am "getting around" to filling the chassis tubes with wax
oil but as you say I can see it becoming a problem in a few years time, I can't imagine having to strip the car down to start replacing chassis
tubes and how much of a job it will be!!
Cheers Mark
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James
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| posted on 31/8/05 at 11:25 PM |
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The tubing's atleast twice as thick as your average car and they last for years- even where paint is chipped etc.
Once the tube is sealed all that can happen is the moisture is turned to rust- once the moisture has gone (ie surface rust) then there is nothing more
to turn into rust.
So there really is nothing to worry about.
At the end of the day, how long do you really think you'll have this chassis? 10 years from now you still think you'll be running around
in it? Most people seem to sell them in a few years anyway!
HTH,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Golden Dragoon
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| posted on 2/9/05 at 12:18 PM |
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if you were really worried about rust, you could consider using stainless steel, though the chassis may need modifying a little.
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andyd
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| posted on 2/9/05 at 12:48 PM |
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I guess I'm not that worried about it. It was just a thought that came to me when browsing some pictures of other peoples chassis being built.
I suppose one answer would be weld it all up as soon as possible before rust sets in and make sure to box in any exposed ends to seal them again
before the rust takes hold. I can always grind off anything later on if I need access. Then when it's all together, drill out or grind off and
fill the tubes with waxoil then seal back up. Like James says, I'm sure the rust potential is far less than some baked bean can cars on the
road today.
Andy
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quattromike
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| posted on 2/9/05 at 04:34 PM |
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You could consider hot dip galvinizing the chasis once it's complete then you'd have no worries at all . But it is a bit costly and I
think it would make the chasis a bit heavier AND you would have to fill it full of holes to stop it from exploding in the hot tank which would
probably weaken it too . So I would say let it be it'll add some character to it and also give you a reason for not taking your time during
the build( "Arhh it's rusting, Better build it quicker" .
Mike
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James
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| posted on 2/9/05 at 05:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by quattromike
You could consider hot dip galvinizing the chasis once it's complete then you'd have no worries at all . But it is a bit costly and I
think it would make the chasis a bit heavier AND you would have to fill it full of holes to stop it from exploding in the hot tank which would
probably weaken it too . So I would say let it be it'll add some character to it and also give you a reason for not taking your time during
the build( "Arhh it's rusting, Better build it quicker".
Mike
All those advantages! 
Aren't you forgetting the reduction in chassis tubing strength due to the acid bath (it's about .1mm or each box side isn't it?
You've only got 1.6mm in the first place!) and also (assuming is doesn't explode!) the warping of the chassis due to the heat!
I think paint is more than good enough!
Atb,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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