Mark H
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 12:27 AM |
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X Flow manifold/chassis rail TR1
Hi Guys,
My exhaust manifold/downpipes want to go right where chassis rail TR1 is (the diagonal between top and bottom rail).
Is it ok to cut it out completely or to cut it out and put two verticle bars in to make a gap?
What have others done in similar circumstances? (I guess I could change the manifold but suspect the former idea would be cheaper).
Cheers,
Mark
Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...
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Sideways 2 Victory
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 08:57 AM |
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I'm having a similar problem here, amongst my stash of old Ford bits n bobs was a RS tubular manifold. When trying to use that I found that the
manifold comes out and is blocked by TR1 too.
My original fix was going to be just welding some circular sections on the manifold to "turn" the pipe away from the diagonal chassis tube but it is
a little too corroded to work with.
Does the lolocost manifold fit past ok?
Cheers
Dave
[Edited on 15/1/03 by Sideways 2 Victory]
www.nurburgring.org
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 10:28 AM |
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Just install two tubes to form a 'V' that will allow clearance for the manifold tubes and still keep triangulation required.
Rob Lane
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Findlay234
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 11:20 AM |
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good to see you on this forum rob, another 4age user like myself. i actually emailed you a couple of months ago about how your 4age arrangement. i was
wondering when you would find this site.
cheers
fin
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Mark H
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 01:08 PM |
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Dave,
The manifold in this case is four s/steel Caterh@m downpipes to a 4 into 1 collector. I don't know about the lolocost.
I think I will stick a V in as Rob suggested, coz that is cheaper, and once the mod is done, all manifolds will fit.
Cheers,
Mark
Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...
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darren(SA)
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| posted on 15/1/03 at 05:32 PM |
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Hi Mark H,
I had the same problem, except my chassis is not exactly like the books, cut a little section out and rewelded a 'Y', don't know if it will be
alright, maybe the pros can give some feedback.
cheers
darren
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Dick Axtell
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 posted on 16/1/03 at 11:40 AM |
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Hi Darren,
Interesting-looking installation. Reckon I'll have the same problem, since I'm also using a Xflow motor.
How far forward have you set your engine, and how low in the chassis?
Dick
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davef
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| posted on 16/1/03 at 12:41 PM |
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chassis rail
Hi Mark it may be easier to move the motor backwards to accomodate the exhaust. i have a setup simmilar to Darrens, and came across the same snag i
got round it by moving the motor rearwards until it cleared the chassis rail. check davef in the photo section. cheers davef.
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Mark H
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| posted on 16/1/03 at 01:17 PM |
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Davef,
That would have been the easiest - however, the motor/gearbox/prop is all in the car, so a change like that will effect a lot of things.
Davef's idea would be a good way for people halfway through the build - ie be aware of the space the manifold will take up, and where its going
through.
DarrenSA's install looks good, and I think something similar will need fabricating on mine.
The lesson to us all is do it right first time!!
Regards,
Mark
Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...
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barrie sharp
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| posted on 16/1/03 at 06:25 PM |
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Hi i am building 1300x flow and have used lolocosts manifold and it fits in just right.
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darren(SA)
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| posted on 16/1/03 at 06:26 PM |
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quote:
The lesson to us all is do it right first time
What would be the fun in that
quote:
How far forward have you set your engine, and how low in the chassis?
Hi Dick, I will have to measure 2moro 4 you.The engine can't be more than an inch below the chassis, lemme confirm that 1st. Our branch is very close
to the bottom side of the chassis but does not touch(even when in its lumpy idle mode).
My chassis differs slightly to daveh's, with his setup, you could get away with moving the engine back. Mine however,was a choice,bend those
beautiful pipes or chop the chassis!
long time no hear daveh,
I dunno if you ever saw this post:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/xmb/viewthread.php?tid=2237
Sorted out my clutch stiffness problem!
looked at some of your pics, your car is looking good! I might send you an email or two for some info on some odds and ends as we basically got the
same setup Off the topic, what mods did you do to your X-flow?
thanks
darren
[Edited on 16/1/03 by darren(SA)]
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davef
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| posted on 17/1/03 at 06:31 AM |
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chassis rail
Hi Mark, i forgot to mention that the engine is set at 50mm below the bottom rails,if you are reading this Darren the mods are as follows gas flowed
head, lightened fly wheel, re profiled cam simmilar to kent BCF3 and twin 40 dcoe webers, shallow sump with windage baffles.cheers davef.
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darren(SA)
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 08:07 AM |
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Dick,
the distance from where the block meets the g/box, to the umm footwell toprail(if I can call it that) is 200mm. The distance from the bottom of my
standard sump to the bottom of the rail is around 50mm.From where the block meets the sump, to the bottom of the bottom rail(confusing myself) is
120mm.
quote:
gas flowed head, lightened fly wheel, re profiled cam simmilar to kent BCF3 and twin 40 dcoe webers, shallow sump with windage baffles.cheers
davef.
What profile is the kent BCF3 if I may ask? I've got a 290' ,which is to the kent 244 spec. We've also flowed/matched the head same carbs,the
cam,double valve springs, lightened flywheel, balanced crank,pitted & balanced pistons.
Your sump, did you do the modifications yourself or did you purchase the sump as is? Cos I forsee my sump getting ripped off on the 1st bump I go
over
cheers darren
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 12:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by darren(SA)
Dick,
the distance from where the block meets the g/box, to the umm footwell toprail(if I can call it that) is 200mm. The distance from the bottom of my
standard sump to the bottom of the rail is around 50mm.From where the block meets the sump, to the bottom of the bottom rail(confusing myself) is
120mm.
Thanks Darren, this last measurement will be very useful.
Dick
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