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Author: Subject: What are the actual settings anyway??
Jon Bradbury

posted on 14/2/03 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
What are the actual settings anyway??

Hi all

I am building a Robin Hood 2B for my sins and am rather concerned at the "adjustability" inherent in the front suspension (its double wishbone). There is alot of talk on this site about what the various terms mean (toe in/out, camber, scrub radius, castor, etc, etc, etc) but not alot of info about what a reasonable set of parameters for these settings would be for a car like ours.

Could anyone out there be so bold as to suggest some good starting settings?

Background information:

My car uses the Sierra rear supension as-is and the Sierra hub carriers at the front (so the steeering axis inclination is pretty well fixed). Robin Hood Engineering suggest a castor angle of around 5 degrees.

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Rorty

posted on 15/2/03 at 02:52 AM Reply With Quote
No one has fronted for this one yet, so I'll offer my $0.02 worth.
As a starting point, I would aim for the following:
Front toe-in: 0 to 2 degrees (total)
Rear toe-in: IRS: 1.5 degrees (total), live axle: 0 (unless you go to the lengths of fitting CVs at the hubs = high maintenance and short axle life)
Camber: Without knowing how (mo)Ron's geometry reacts in roll, I would aim for 1.5 degrees neg.
Scrub radius: Again, I'm surmising Ron's design is somewhere near correct, therefore, I would aim between +10mm to +25mm, depending on which uprights/wheels you choose.
Caster: Same applies, but 4 degrees is a good base.
I haven't built or tested a Sevenesque, so these figures are what I estimate for a car of this size/weight/ballance.
Can anyone else who's driven their locost either confirm or refute my guesstimates?





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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