caber
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 11:17 PM |
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Accuracy
Those who have built their own chassis , how accurate did it come out compared to Mc Sorely or book? Is tolerence ±3mm OK?
I am really not sure how to resolve some of the angled tube to flat face issues quite a few of the junctions like this are not detailed as to how the
extra bit of the angled tube is supposed to lie.
Caber 4 days into build!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 11:30 PM |
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I'd say +/- 3mm is fine and probably better than a lot of production cars.
Think mines about +/- 5mm overall.
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Simon
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 11:36 PM |
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I mentioned accuracy when I visited CBS - they had just finished a Foreman Can Am and said I'd was about 3 - 4 mm on the diagonal (corner to
corner) and they reckoned that was about as good as you could get!
Getting the mounting points in the right place for suspension/steering is the critical bit - I your chassis ends up a foot longer on one side, it
won't matter so long as running gear geometry can be set true, if you see what I mean
So you'll be fine.
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 29/12/05 by Simon]
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andyharding
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 11:55 PM |
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Mines chassis is about +/- 5mm on the diag.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 12:06 AM |
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The inaccuracy of the chassis can be no more than can be corrected by the suspension adjustments.
To be fair, most production cars are about 4mm, but I was very surprised by porsche, they are just about spot on, you get what you pay for.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Gav
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 10:06 AM |
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id say thats fine and the important thign is the placement of the suspension pickup points.
Mine was 4mm out on the triangulation but this will be solved by adjusting the panhard rod for the dedion.
The front was pretty much spot on.
Heres the thread i started about mine.
the pic isnt their because im in the process of changing the gallery software
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=36055
[Edited on 30/12/05 by Gav]
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 10:36 AM |
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Took mines of the jig yesterday after fully weldin its only 2mm off on the diaganols and it has a torsional twist of about 4mm along its lenght ( as
best as i can measure anyway. Ive still got the tunnel area to do and a bit of triangulation after some major parts (engine) have been decided on and
sourced.
I'm quite happy with that (should I be)?
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Hugh Paterson
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 05:54 PM |
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+/- 4mm seems the norm, a lot depends on the jig and your welding schedule when you complete the tacked up chassis. Will discuss options if I get
through to yer den early doors next week. Suppose this means I got to stay kinda half sober at Hogmany then??
Shug.
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caber
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 11:28 PM |
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Shug
No need to stay even sober ish! Hangover should be gone by Tuesday and I am still off work then!
Caber
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Hugh Paterson
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| posted on 30/12/05 at 11:37 PM |
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drunken wegies
ah but I have been on the pop for three days now just warming up for Hogmany!
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JB
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| posted on 31/12/05 at 06:39 PM |
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Accuracy
4mm on chassis diagoal is pretty good.
What I would recommend is welding on the critical points ie suspension pickups last. This means you can compensate for any chassis inaccuracy.
I tape cardboard to a flat surface (garage floor) then draw out the suspension pickup points. The chassis is then put onto the cardboard and it is
quite easy to get the position of the lower pickups within 1mm. To do the tops you have to get clever with plumb lines, engineers squares and spirit
levels.
John
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