omega 24 v6
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 posted on 19/2/06 at 10:44 AM |
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Acuaracy
Having made the tie rods and fitted them and the live axle to my chassis I now have 2 questions.
1 The lenght from the half shaft centre to the front bottom ball joint centre differs by 4.5 mm is this a great problem or not? I do have a fix in
mind if it is.
2 There does not seem to be very much movement in the trailng arms to allow for body roll. I can understand why, but wondered if it puts quite a
large torsional load on the welding of the eye tubes.
I know that if i'd used rod ends none of this would be a problem so don't start on me
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zilspeed
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 11:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Having made the tie rods and fitted them and the live axle to my chassis I now have 2 questions.
1 The lenght from the half shaft centre to the front bottom ball joint centre differs by 4.5 mm is this a great problem or not? I do have a fix in
mind if it is.
2 There does not seem to be very much movement in the trailng arms to allow for body roll. I can understand why, but wondered if it puts quite a
large torsional load on the welding of the eye tubes.
I know that if i'd used rod ends none of this would be a problem so don't start on me
If you lean on the rear corner of a completed se7en type car - as in full body weight (whatever that may be) you will compress the suspension by maybe
an inch at best. So, how much rotation do you think that is putting into the trailing arm ends ?
The square root of diddly squat - that's how much.
Remember - you will have something like 200lb/in springs on the back mounted verticvally, so it really isn't an issue.
Anyway - my heart rate is now down under the 200 beats/min level - I'm away out the back again to continue this garage base.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 11:57 AM |
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Your first question I think is basically the wheelbase? If it is, 7mm is generally accepted as being within tollerance in the accident repair
business. You may well find that your 4.5mm will disappear when you get the car on the road, all those bushes need to settle in etc
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 12:55 PM |
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What are you measuring it with, a Stanley tape? My mate found all sorts of differences when I was building mine and was concerned I had a 3mm
difference from side to side on some components but when the tape was held at both ends and pulled tight it was less. 3mm didn't bother me as my
old Mini had one front wheel 3/4" further back than the other and still drove straight 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 01:04 PM |
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OK cheers everyone I'll away back out and crack on with some more work.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 01:07 PM |
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Small errors--- sometimes they cancel out sometimes they stack up against you --- 4.5 mm isn't bad but you could try swapping wishbones and/or
suspension links left to right to see if it reduces it any.
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caber
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 09:28 PM |
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anyone remember the Renault 16? it had full width torsion bars at the back, one in front of the other result a difference in wheelbase side to side of
2 and a bit inches. I think they used the same layout in some other cars possibly including the Renault 12 that is still being built in Romania as the
Dacia!
Our family Renault 16TS managed 108 miles an hour fully loaded with 4 up along the Mulsane straight in 1969 when it was still an open public road! It
also managed 100 miles an hour indicated in the last week I drove it in the early 80s racing a porsche 924 who bottled it! It died of rust and
knackered half shafts, about the 8th set in 14 years!
Caber
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gazza285
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 09:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
My old Mini had one front wheel 3/4" further back than the other and still drove straight
Must have been the only Mini that did drive straight, all of the ones I see scuttle down the road. I'd still have another though.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 19/2/06 at 09:48 PM |
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That was usually due to an amateur replacement of the rear subframe!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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