aeroluke
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:18 PM |
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Do I need to buy a MIG welder?
Hi all,
I've got access (soon) to an oil cooled arc welder (180 Amp Pickhill Bantam). I understand that arc welding is harder than MIG welding but is it
that much harder that I should spend however many hundred quid on a MIG welder when I have access to a free arc welder? Seems to be a fairly decent
looking one (if a bit old-school and agricultural).
There's a similar one on ebay at the moment:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PICKHILL-180-AMP-OIL-COOLED-ARC-WELDER_W0QQitemZ7595938003QQcategoryZ113743QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:23 PM |
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That welder, in the right hands, will produce better than any mig unit could ever hope to emulate.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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theconrodkid
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:34 PM |
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ive used a similar one,superb machine.
watch the oil tho,this was full of whale oil and moisture caused a few shocks
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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aeroluke
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:55 PM |
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Okay, sounds like it's worth a go then... I've got all summer to practice till I start my job anyway!
What was that about whale oil and moisture?
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gazza285
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:55 PM |
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Top welder that, I've got one under the bench. I've got a mig too, but I tend to use that for tacking up and then using the arc set to
weld it fully. You'll find it a challenge at first, especially with the thin tube used in a Locost chassis, but it can be done.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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gazza285
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posted on 8/3/06 at 08:58 PM |
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Just looked at the one on eBay. I only paid £40 for mine, with leads and a choice of armoured three phase or single phase input cables and a wheeled
trolley to keep it all on.
When you do start remember that decent rods go a long way to help the ease of use and keep them dry.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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Wadders
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posted on 8/3/06 at 09:00 PM |
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Knocked these up with an oil cooled bantam (16g Stainless)
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=engine_exhaust_side.jpg
had a few years practice tho .
Great welders, really stable arc and a decent open circuit voltage. if you have the patience to practice i'd say go for it. Or spend what you
save on some classes.
Al.
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suparuss
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posted on 8/3/06 at 10:10 PM |
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ive been wondering recently if the small portabe inverter arc welders would be better than my current set up which is a 150 amp sip hobby thing. the
wire feed has been driving me insane with frustration and on a job im on there is a fabricator doing some some iron pipe work with one and it seems
infinately better to me. are they good for really thin stuff? cos ive got some 18g here and there in my chassis but mostly 16g.
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gazza285
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posted on 8/3/06 at 10:24 PM |
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They will do 16g and 18g, but you will need some practice. If you are thinking of getting an inverter set, why not fork out a bit more and get the
scratch TIG gear to go with it?
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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suparuss
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posted on 8/3/06 at 10:33 PM |
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thats how it all starts though, first i just want a basic machine then a bit more and a bit more and end up spending 3 grand on an ac dc machine with
various add ons and foot pedals etc!
incidentaly ive just bought a nice speedglas welding mask so now i can use both hands when welding! definatly want a better welder at some point, just
considering the options.
Cheers,
Russ.
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NS Dev
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posted on 9/3/06 at 01:03 PM |
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GYS Tig
£400 get you decent power, inverter with HF start and slope control etc
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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theconrodkid
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posted on 9/3/06 at 05:22 PM |
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i got an inverter and tig kit from screwfix,tig bit is crap,inverter is blinding.
re whale oil,it absorbs moisture and eventually will cause a short,sposed to change it every so often or use transformer oil could be worth a try
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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