robertst
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 posted on 11/5/06 at 09:49 AM |
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ignorance again
what is CDS tube? i was thinking of using regular steel tube (prolly around 50x3mm) for my rollover bar is that ok?
Tom
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Peter M
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 10:10 AM |
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cold drawn steel
my previous cars
my westfield build
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 10:46 AM |
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Cold Drawn Seamless for cages.
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iank
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 10:53 AM |
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Regular ERW tube is welded and can split in an impact.
CDS is seamless so it can't split.
You will only ever need to use a cage once (if ever) and you can't test it, but if you do need it you really need it to work properly.
Cheapest way to get it done if you want to DIY is to buy the (properly) bent main tube from MK engineering, MNR, or some other guys with a mandrel
bender. It's not too expensive that way, and you don't need to source the CDS if that's difficult with your suppliers.
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robertst
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 12:03 PM |
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no on the contrary. the hollow 25x25 rectangular tubes for the chassis i bought are also CDS. seems i might end up with a pretty sturdy chassis!
thanks!
tom
Tom
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caber
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 01:02 PM |
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Where did you get rectangular CDS and what did it cost?
BTW what are you doing to that poor wee kitten?
Caber
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Peteff
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 01:17 PM |
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Who told you it was cds is more to the point? I've never seen cfs/cds rectangular section and would imagine it would be very expensive and
unnecessary for our application. The oval and round section is in the region of 4 times dearer than seamed in the same size where I get mine from
which would make the chassis about £300 in raw material alone.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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robertst
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 01:35 PM |
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well, when i asked the guy quite brutely for steel, he gave me the option of remade steel (i.e. recycled maybe) or cold drawn steel. and for the 36
meters or so of this material the guy asked 25 quid or so for it. maybe i'm confusing it with cold treated steel?
quote:
Originally posted by caber
Where did you get rectangular CDS and what did it cost?
BTW what are you doing to that poor wee kitten?
Caber
its a pretty rare photograph, what happened is that the camera flashed her and took the photograph at the same time she was meowing hence the bat
face
edit: she's 8 years old btw.
[Edited on 11/5/06 by robertst]
Tom
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Liam
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 02:41 PM |
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My roll bar is 50mm x 2.5mm normal erw tube. Braced to the rear chassis corners and with a diagonal it certainly isn't going anywhere.
I've never ever ever ever ever seen erw split and cause more damage in a situation than would have happened with CDS.
I'm not saying dont use CDS, just that I think the focus should be much more on the design of the structure. A lot of the small tube totally
unbraced in any direction roll hoops i've seen on locosts may as well be made of rubber for all the good they'll do in a bad roll! Dont
think for a minute that just cos you've specified CDS, a poorly designed roll bar will offer any protection.
Liam
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kb58
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| posted on 11/5/06 at 03:20 PM |
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I just bit the bullet and spent the money, buying the roll-cage tubes bent as needed, from a place specializing in it. That way I could rest assured
it was the right stuff, the right size, and I didn't have to ask what to use... It is your life on the line after all... There are
places to cut costs, but this isn't one of them.
[Edited on 5/11/06 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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