Avoneer
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 posted on 23/7/07 at 07:11 PM |
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Trailer Geometry Angle Calcs Needed
Who's good at angles????
Trying to work out the angle for the top flange of my ramps for my nearly finished trailer.
When the trailer bed is level, the ramp end is 16 3/4" from the floor.
When the trailer bed is at the level where we want to load and unload, it is 15" from the floor.
The ramps will be 69" long.
The top flange needs to be about 2" long.
Can anyone work out what angle the top flange should be to sit flat on the trailer bed when it's 15" from the floor (on a slight downward
incline)?
Head scratchy stuff and:
1) I was born in Salford
2) I'm a meagre office worker, not a bloody engineer or maths genius!
Pat....JPG)
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JoelP
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:20 PM |
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about 12 degrees? inv sin of 15/69.
that doesnt include any angle on the trailer, which will be negligable with it 1.5" down over about 60" from the pivot.
[Edited on 23/7/07 by JoelP]
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Avoneer
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:21 PM |
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That'd be if the bed was level though and it's 1 3/4" below level!
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:41 PM |
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Boll*cks to it.
Gonna have flat ramps and fit a bracket to the back of the trailer for it to sit on so the tops are flush.
Pat...
[Edited on 23/7/07 by Avoneer]
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jacko
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:51 PM |
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Make it a tipping trailer no ramps 
Graham
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Avoneer
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 07:56 PM |
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That was the original plan, but with 13" wheels and a high bed, it would be like the big one at Blackpool!
Pat...
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 08:00 PM |
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Weld a piece of plate or angle to the end of the ramp with a pin welded to it and drill a hole for the pin to drop in.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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JoelP
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 08:09 PM |
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the angle of the trailer is 1.5 degrees, as i said, negligable!
Have you got wheels yet pat? Ive got three nice ones with brand spanker tyres on for sale!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 08:37 PM |
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J - are yours 10" ? - Might want to try with some 10's if the offset and PCD is the same.
Got my wheels. Trailer is fully towable at the mo.
Peteff - top idea. Might be better to weld angle to the back of the trailer and pin underneath ramp - Easy - can keep the top of the ramp and bed
level then.
Pat...
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JoelP
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:12 PM |
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nah, mine are 13s too. Im going from single 750 axle on 13s to twin 550s and 10s, still unbraked.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 09:13 PM |
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Iv got a it of angle welded across the back of my trailer which is part of the frame and a bit of angle welded facing downwards on my ramps so they
just hook in at any angle u fancy.
The pictures crap but you get the idea.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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caber
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| posted on 23/7/07 at 10:46 PM |
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how about a rod across the back of the trailer and hooks on the ramp. You won't always be loading on a dead flat surface so a hinge is a good
idea!
Caber
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 08:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
Iv got a it of angle welded across the back of my trailer which is part of the frame and a bit of angle welded facing downwards on my ramps so they
just hook in at any angle u fancy.
The pictures crap but you get the idea.
That seems to be pretty much the standard method on commercial car trailers. Cheap, simple and adjusts itself to whatever angle is needed without
binding.
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 09:09 AM |
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Something along the lines of "U" channel on the back of the trailer and "L" angle on the end of the ramps. That way you can
alter the spacing between the ramps should you ever need to carry things with different track widths. Also, as above, it could do with being a hinge
type arrangement as, even on perfectly flat ground, the angle will be different between loading and unloading, assuming you have some form of
suspension on the trailer (bed height will be different). If you don't have rear legs on the trailer and rely on the hitch to the towing vehicle
to keep it level while loading/unloading, you will also be quite surprised at how much the trailer "see-saws" during the operation even
with a heavy tow vehicle.
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kb58
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 01:10 PM |
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Calculating the angle is okay, but not very realistic. That is, as you drive the car into the trailer, the weight of it will push the back of the
trailer down quite a bit. You can also lower the trailer stand to lift the front while the car's loading up.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Avoneer
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| posted on 24/7/07 at 10:50 PM |
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The trailer will have props at the rear edge s with those and the jockey wheel, shouldn't move when loading/unloading.
Like the idea of angle though.
One pice like this: L across the back of the trailer and another the other way up on the ramps.
Will post some pics when it all comes together.
Pat...
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Litemoth
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| posted on 25/7/07 at 07:52 PM |
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I'm just repeating what's been said but maybe of use:
[Edited on 25/7/07 by Litemoth]
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