CaptainJosh
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posted on 4/9/07 at 02:26 PM |
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Tunnel Material
Could there be a good amount of weight saved by making and bending the tunnel out of flat steel? Obviousely it would be radiused will no sharp
edges-
I was just wondering if this would be safe enough and what do you think the minimum thickness could be.
In the case of the prop breaking, do you think it would be safe without any pillars?
Anyway, just a thought.
-Josh
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JAG
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posted on 4/9/07 at 03:30 PM |
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This is very similar to what Caterham do with their chassis design - have a search for a picture.
I found this - look at the tunnel, no structural sections at all just a flat floor.
[Edited on 4/9/07 by JAG]
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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StevieB
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posted on 4/9/07 at 03:35 PM |
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You could use thicker ali and save a load of weight over steel (plus, it's one more thing that won't rust/doesn't need powder
coating).
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CaptainJosh
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posted on 4/9/07 at 03:42 PM |
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So how come none of you guys have done it? ( from what i've seen )
Cheers for the reply's
-Josh
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clockwork
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posted on 4/9/07 at 03:58 PM |
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http://www.locost7.info/files/chassis/kitcaranalysis_V2.doc
Might me worth a read.
As an aside I am following the mods, though with slightly different suspension location.
"Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." Benjamin Franklin.
"Well if you have nothing to hide, you have nothing to fear" Morons the world over.
Locost/Kit builders info and FAQ website:- www.carbuilders.info
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BenB
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posted on 4/9/07 at 04:12 PM |
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I'd be very wary of that setup having seen what damage a flailing prop can do when they fail.... Unless you made the sheet exceedingly thick,
which would kind of defeat the point...
A sheet aliminium drivetunnel sounds even more scary!!!
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ned
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posted on 4/9/07 at 04:47 PM |
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The cymtriks mods include exactly what you're asking, trying searching for cymtricks mod or similar on here.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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clockwork
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posted on 4/9/07 at 07:09 PM |
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BenB, regarding flailing prop, I've seen the results too in an old Manta, battered the tunnel quite badly... but didn't go through. This
one was at high speed and the prop was of "unspecified origin" i.e. not the original.
Have you ever seen a failure of a properly manufactured prop?
No idea how thick the tunnel was though.
"Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." Benjamin Franklin.
"Well if you have nothing to hide, you have nothing to fear" Morons the world over.
Locost/Kit builders info and FAQ website:- www.carbuilders.info
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iank
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posted on 4/9/07 at 07:37 PM |
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Prop's coming through aren't uncommon
Some threads (second one with pictures):
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=1757
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=35140
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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JoelP
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posted on 4/9/07 at 07:40 PM |
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i have a proper tunnel in mine because its, in my design, a vital reinforcement to the diff mounts. I have thought in the past about using a piece of
4" plastic soil pipe to contain and cover the prop - its quite tough, light and also, bearing in mind how close the prop would be contained to
its axis, quite likely up for the job. Flailing gets much worse the further away from its axis it gets.
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