DaveFJ
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 03:16 PM |
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POR15
I Know there are several threads about this but I coudn't find exactly what i needed to know so.....
I have ordered some POR15 to paint my chassis and would like to know what others have used to prepare the surface.
I was thinking of wirebrush on grinder followed by a wipe down with thinners before painting. Or should I get the (expensive) metal prep stuff ?
Also how have you applied it - Brush/roller/spray ?
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ned
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 03:38 PM |
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wire brush on grinder is favourite, though i seem to remember the por15 website recommends their own etch primer spray stuff, though they would,
wouldn't they!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 03:46 PM |
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The Metal Prep stuff is very good, but it has one downside for chassis preparation - it MUST be rinsed off after use. I didn't fancy hosing
down my chassis, getting water in everywhere (I asked POR15 via e-mail - they were emphatic about the rinsing!)
I use this stuff a lot when preparing smaller bits, combined with POR15's Marine Clean which is a very good and relatively low-risk degreaser.
The Metal Prep leaves a coarse matt finish which holds the paint very well.
David
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sgraber
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 05:46 PM |
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I found some really useful info on POR-15 and it convinced me to use the stuff. I did after all spend a year designing and building the da,mn chassis.
Check out this How-To : http://www.prp-porshop.com/porstoruspor.html
Check out this Do's and Dont's: http://www.prp-porshop.com/porstordosan.html
And the POR-15 FAQ : http://www.prp-porshop.com/faqs.html
-----------------------------------------------
BTW: I am ready to paint my chassis as well.
My question to you all is - How much should I buy? Is a gallon too much? Please note that I have a larger chassis than a locost. Prob'ly
double the surface area of a locost... See my website....
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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sgraber
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 11:06 PM |
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Would anyone care to comment on this product? http://www.rusthut.net/
It appears to be a competitor to POR-15. They claim no surface prep is required and it doesn't need to be top-coated because it is UV resistant.
All in all a very nice looking metallic grey finish that is similar to powdercoating in hardness. (According to the literature) Look in the photo
gallery on their website.
And since there are no surface prep chemicals required, it's considerably cheaper than POR-15.
I think I'll give it a go. Wonder if it's available in the U.K....
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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pbura
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 02:46 AM |
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Rust Bullet
quote:
Originally posted by sgraber
Would anyone care to comment on this product?
It can go on clean or rusty metal with no surface prep and is impervious to oil and water, in addition to all the other qualities you mentioned. The
only weakness I could see is a service temp limit of 200 deg. F, so is not usable on some mechanical parts, like brake calipers, etc.
Great stuff! Thanks for posting about it, Steve 
Pete
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sgraber
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 03:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pbura
It can go on clean or rusty metal with no surface prep and is impervious to oil and water...
I got an email back from the website and you do need to clean the metal first. You can use any degreaser EXCEPT those that are alcohol based
... So there is some prep involved. But not much.
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 10:00 AM |
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After looking at the Frosts web site again I realised i was reading it wrong - I thought they wanted £25 for a bottle of Metal Ready - turns out it
was only £9.99
So my bottle should arrive tommorow morning and my POR15 (in silver just to be different) arrived this morning....
I guess a weekend of chassis painting is in order
BTW - I have just read the warnings on the can of POR15!!! was this stuff developed by Saddam Hussein as a WMD? sounds bloody lethal....
Thanks for your help
Dave
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sgraber
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 02:30 PM |
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Dave, I think that POR-15 sounds like an incredible product! Same ingredient as in Super-Glue! Metal cleaning and prep are everything tho to ensure
permanent adhesion.
Are you planning on spraying it on or brushing? What will you top-coat it with? Do you have to do the floors too? How much do you think it'll
take? 3 quarts?
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 04:23 PM |
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I intend to clean chassis with rotary wire brush then clean down with something (undecided yet!) before applying the metal prep stuff. I have yet to
recive the metal prep so don't have the instructions yet but once it is cleaned off and the chassis is dry and ready I will be applying it with
a brush (spraying it sounds like a nigthmare)
I don't intend to use a topcoat as that is really only for UV protection and my chassis will not be in direct sunlight....
If i have enough left over I intend to do the main panels as well however that isn't essential because i am using Ali panels for floor etc...
I have bought 1 tin (1 pint) to get started with .. I will have to see how far that goes and then order as neccessary. but will return to tell the
tale...
BTW I ordered it from FROSTS and was very impressed by the service - 2 days from order to delivery
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wicket
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| posted on 1/11/03 at 09:05 PM |
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I used POR15 & Metal Prep from Frosts for the engine & gearbox. Wired brushed before applying Metal Prep. Rinsed & dried. Applied 2 brush
coats of POR15. It went on very well and gives a hard finish that looks good. I will not be top coating. 2 coats took nearly 1pt of POR15.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/11/03 at 12:58 PM |
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One last point about POR15 - pour out what you need for the job in hand, reseal the tin tightly and turn it over.
As soon as the air touches this stuff it starts to cure, and the air in the tin will form a very solid skin on top (very hard to break through!). If
you turn the tin over, the skin forms on what will be the bottom when you turn the tin the right way up. (if you see what I mean... ).
DJ
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 1/12/03 at 11:54 AM |
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Update:-
Sunday I finally got around to painting my chassis...
1 pint tin of POR15 managed two thin coats JUST
The metal ready stuff is great but.... when rinsed off their were a few areas where the chasis formed a layer of surface rust in under 20 minutes!
Used the silver stuff and the finish looks great
If possible you need 2 people - the paint goes off very quickly so you need to get the job done fast.
where a hat and cover as much skin as possible - I now have a permanently silver forearm and the warning on the tin is true - nothing removes it short
of a scalpel! - still better than the wife with her lovely new highlights!!! 
- David J - it expressley says on the tin - Do Not Turn it over, you'll never get the lid off again......
Cheers all for your input
Dave
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Liam
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 01:33 AM |
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Hmmmmm...
I've been umming and aahing about chassis coating for ages now - powder coat or paint? I thought I'd decided on a sandblasting then
powder coating to save me a load of work and for the durable finish of the powder coat. Not that i'd mind the painting, but the thought of
sanding/brushing off over a year's surface rust in every nook and cranny to get a shiny surface for the red-oxide primer or whatever makes me
shudder.
But it seems this Por-15 stuff wont require that and yet wont be as crap as hammerite. Could a few knowledgable Por-15 converts answer a few
questions...
1. So all i'd need to do is spray on some of that metal ready stuff, rinse it, dry it and apply Por-15?
2. What do you rinse with and would you have to dry it ultra fast somehow after rinsing?
3. What kind of finish can you get with a brush? Should it be rollered perhaps?
4. The blurb makes this stuff sound indestructable. Is it really as durable as powder coating?
5. I reckon I can get somebody to sandblast and powder coat my chassis for about £160. Anybody have any estimate for the total cost from rusty mess
to finished chassis with the Por-15 system? What about if I want to topcoat afterwards - do you really need the Por-15 primer thing and if so how
much extra is that?
Hmmm, that'll do for now. Cheers,
Liam
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blueshift
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 04:47 AM |
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bleedin good questions, we've been wondering about chassis painting too.
now to lie in wait until someone knowledgable comes along..
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JoelP
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 08:18 AM |
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agreed...!
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Staple balls
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
1. So all i'd need to do is spray on some of that metal ready stuff, rinse it, dry it and apply Por-15?
Yeah, pretty much
2. What do you rinse with and would you have to dry it ultra fast somehow after rinsing?
Water, best to do it in the garden, and no hurry to dry it, but be sure it is dry. por15 goes ikky on water
3. What kind of finish can you get with a brush? Should it be rollered perhaps?
The finish is pretty good and smooth, use good new brushes though (ones that won't shed hair)
4. The blurb makes this stuff sound indestructable. Is it really as durable as powder coating?
I'm not sure about that, but it's pretty tough
5. I reckon I can get somebody to sandblast and powder coat my chassis for about £160. Anybody have any estimate for the total cost from rusty mess
to finished chassis with the Por-15 system? What about if I want to topcoat afterwards - do you really need the Por-15 primer thing and if so how
much extra is that?
About 30 quid for a single coat of por15 (1 litre tin) We managed to do my chassis, wishbones, roll bar, prop shaft, drive shafts, rear uprights,
front hubs and steering rack with a 1 litre tin. 2 litres would be a better plan, if you have time to do all the painting in one day
Not done a topcoat, but where i've missed bits with por15 i just sprayed over with hammerite spray paint. no problems at all
Hmmm, that'll do for now. Cheers,
Liam
[Edited on 6/12/03 by Staple balls]
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 10:17 AM |
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I think 2 litres is probably a bit over the top unless you have a sheet steel floor....
I reckon you need 2 pints (£10 ea) to do a chassis and wishbones without doing the floor. - 2 coats
rinsing with water - dry quickly and thoroughly! - I left mine 20 mins then dried with rags and had a coating of surface rust in some areas by the
time it had dried - in 20 minutes!!!
chassis really needs to be very dry - mine wasn't completely in areas and the finish is a bit crap. the areas I got right the fisih is great -
and seems VERY strong.
Biggest problem is working time - you have to be fast!
HTH
Dave
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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sgraber
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 03:36 PM |
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Why don't you borrow the missus' blow drier to help mother nature along? Towel dry as well as possible and then hit the joints with the
blow drier, or two.
Unless yer hair is like ProtoFJ's mop. Then just use your own blow drier!
Graber
BTW- right now it's 12% humidity here in the American Southwest..
[Edited on 12/6/03 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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Staple balls
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 03:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by protofj
I think 2 litres is probably a bit over the top unless you have a sheet steel floor....
I reckon you need 2 pints (£10 ea) to do a chassis and wishbones without doing the floor. - 2 coats
oh yeah, was just leaving to go out shopping for normal paint, so was stuck in metric, 2 pints is what i meant
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Liam
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 04:00 PM |
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Excellenté. Sounds like great stuff. Just a few more Q's...
1. About this having to work really fast thing. Is the problem that you can't blend edges in if it is starting to go off (like hammerite or
normal gloss paint) so you've really got to get the whole thing done at once - and fast, or is it just that you dont have a long pot life - and
you'd be OK working slow so long as you only pour out a bit at a time.
2. How much of that metal ready are you likely to need? Does it do a pretty good job of removing all the rust anyway (looks that way from a picture
on their site).
3. Seeing what has happened to my chassis, all the latest bits i've done (wishbones and frame-over-engine) i've gone and red oxide
primered. Would this have to be blasted/rubbed off before Por-15?
Brilliant. Cheers.
LIam
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Staple balls
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| posted on 6/12/03 at 04:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
Excellenté. Sounds like great stuff. Just a few more Q's...
1. About this having to work really fast thing. Is the problem that you can't blend edges in if it is starting to go off (like hammerite or
normal gloss paint) so you've really got to get the whole thing done at once - and fast, or is it just that you dont have a long pot life - and
you'd be OK working slow so long as you only pour out a bit at a time.
you're ok to pour a bit out at a time and do it that way, but i'd be suprised if it didn't go off in the tin after a week or so,
ideally try to get 2 coats done in a day or so (i did chassis one day with help, and all the other bits the day after)
2. How much of that metal ready are you likely to need? Does it do a pretty good job of removing all the rust anyway (looks that way from a picture
on their site).
i'd guess one bottle would do it, i just used it to clean the new bits
3. Seeing what has happened to my chassis, all the latest bits i've done (wishbones and frame-over-engine) i've gone and red oxide
primered. Would this have to be blasted/rubbed off before Por-15?
i'd rub it back or roughen it up a bit, then paint over
[Edited on 6/12/03 by Staple balls]
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Liam
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| posted on 7/12/03 at 05:12 PM |
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Thanks...Balls
Seems like i may well be converted. To hell mr powder coater.
Just leaves one question unanswered - how durable is this stuff? Dont suppose anybody knows of any comparable data available on the hardness of a
powder coated finish compared with this por-15?
Liam
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 13/12/03 at 09:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by protofj
I reckon you need 2 pints (£10 ea)
oops i mean £15 ea !
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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