DuncanH
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posted on 19/5/10 at 03:37 PM |
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Transmission tunnel
Just an idea really but I'm thinking of saving as much weight as possible as the diet aint working
I was wondering if I was to replace to tunnel with a carbon version and bond it in place, would this affect the strength of the chassis?
I'm not to sure how integral this section is to the build and the last thing I want to have is the car fold in half
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skinned knuckles
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posted on 19/5/10 at 03:50 PM |
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the tunnel does privide some structural rigidity according to my book. I am looking to be skinning mine in carbon fibre though in order to save a bit
of weight but will still be using 19mm box to form the structure.
A man isn't complete until he's married, then he's finished
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Steve Hignett
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posted on 19/5/10 at 04:04 PM |
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If done correctly (read that first bit twice ), it would be stronger... (according to Cymtriks research/design)
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mangogrooveworkshop
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posted on 19/5/10 at 05:50 PM |
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I hope you have given thought to the fact that the prop turns at a rapid rate within.
Some prop catchers are really what you will need to make sure you are safe should the prop let go.
A few on here had it happen
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bi22le
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posted on 19/5/10 at 06:44 PM |
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As just mentioned a prop running wild at serious speed will be trouble if you have no loops inplace to stop it going all over the place.
Also will the carbon be strong enough to mount the hand brake from? They need alot of fource.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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DuncanH
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posted on 19/5/10 at 07:14 PM |
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I was thinking of putting carbon hoops roughly every 10" and then using a carbon kevlar composite as the final skin.
The prop is a worry though but my main worry is getting a strong enough bond to both the front and rear fire walls!
As far as correctly doing it that will have to be worked out at a later date, I just need to know that the car wont fold up or should the prop fail I
won't loose my legs before doing too much more homework.
The handbrake is something I hadn't thought about but everything can be worked around, anyway brakes are over rated
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nick205
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posted on 19/5/10 at 08:38 PM |
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Personally I'd say there are other areas to save weight and probably more of it than from the tunnel structure.
Have you got the very lightest wheels/tyres/uprights/brakes/shocks/engine/seats and so on?
When you get right down to it...
Using cap head bolts and K nuts rather than nromal hex head bolts and nylon lock nuts.
Using lightweight wire and minising run lengths.
Fiting lightweight GRP panels (some manufacturers offer 'race' spec thinner panels).
Fitting a carbon propshaft.
...will all shave grams of here and there.
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Steve Hignett
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posted on 19/5/10 at 08:45 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by DuncanH
As far as correctly doing it that will have to be worked out at a later date, I just need to know that the car wont fold up
Do yourself a bit of a favour and have a good read of this:
http://locost7.info/files/chassis/kitcaranalysis_V2.doc
Obv that article describes welded-in panels, but there are plenty of ways of securing a CF or CF/Kev panel in to the same stability IMO...
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