b14wrc
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 08:02 AM |
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Welding - comments
Hi all,
As subject says:
This is my first attempt, not welded in a few years, got set up yesterday and had a go. Anything from the photo that looks wrong? From the inside of
the tube I can see penetration.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 08:23 AM |
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That looks fine to me. 
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x319/zephyr2000/General%20forum%20uploads/?action=view¤t=3DEngine.mp4
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sdh2903
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 08:26 AM |
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Looks very good
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b14wrc
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 09:06 AM |
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Thanks guys. Would you then just clean off the spatter prior to powder coating?
I was finding initially on a plate I was doing lines on that the weld was very high, sticking up. Think I have the settings right now.
On that piece I chamffered the edges with a file. Quite a bit of work to do, looking forward to the 300+ joints I will end up doing now. Lol, what
have I let myself in for!
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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Dick Axtell
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 posted on 20/10/12 at 09:15 AM |
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Mig?Tig?
Looks like Mig welding. Correct? Haven't used arc welding since my apprenticeship days (long time gone!), but as I recall, there was usually
more spatter, than your sample shows.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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owelly
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 09:22 AM |
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Looks good. A quick whizz over with a 'strip n clean' disc in the angry grinder will knock off the spatter. I wouldn't bother with a
chamfer. For stuff that needs to be ground flat, just leave a gap equal to half the material thicknes (or thereabouts to make sure the weld gets full
penetration.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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robinj66
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 09:26 AM |
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Lotsof useful info and tutorials on Here
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sdh2903
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 09:29 AM |
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Yep quick wizz over with a flap disc just to remove spatter with out removing any of the meat of the weld itself and jobs a good un.
[Edited on 20/10/12 by sdh2903]
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ashg
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 09:57 AM |
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looks like it will hold.
if im being super critical flat weld isnt too bad. you want a little more wire in the fillet. also make sure you continue the fillet round a bit
more so that there isnt a gap between the two welds. like i said though its not going to fall apart and is good enough to start building your
chassis.
oh and treat your vice to some new jaws poor little vice.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 10:07 AM |
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Looks pretty tidy to me 
I'm no expert, but from what I gather low gas flow can give some splatter so might be worth trying upping the pressure a little. But I
wouldn't exactly say there was much splatter there anyhow, you should see my attempts 
I'm probably wrong though
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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DIY Si
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 10:16 AM |
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That looks just fine to me. With the rounded shoulders of the 1" box, there's no need to chamfer the joints as the edge has the same
effect, and makes the welds easier to do. Cleanliness is key, and some of the brown stuff sat on the weld is just from the steel surface, but a quick
sand first will fix most of that.
Other than that, practice is the thing!
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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johnemms
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 10:18 AM |
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Coogar 5 Gas is probably the one to go for.
93% Argon, 5% CO2, 2% Oxygen
I got a half size bottle from welding supplies for about £35
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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b14wrc
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 10:27 AM |
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Thanks Ashg, that vice has seen some action over the years. It originally came from my mums and I used it as a kid, where it came from originally, I
don't know, but I could treat it. Lol
Yes, leaving a 1mm gap will allow the weld to penetrate, will try that. I think my welder is at it's limits of capability but should be ok,
it's flat out on temp and feed rate is also near top setting.
Yes it is MIG welding. I'm using 0.8mm wire and Argonsheild light, what gas pressure do you recommend? I did the above on about 4-5 l/min....
Should I be set higher? Weld seems ok from this point of view.
One other thing, cutting the box section, what's peoples prefered method? I used hack saw yesterday, but I think I might get bord of that soon.
Lol. Was thinking of using my Airsaw with a decent hacksaw blade? Better than a grinder? Don't really want to make loads of grinding dust if I
can help it..... Not got a chop saw.
I am off work on Wednesday (birthday!) so I'm going to have a bit more of a play, may even start the car. Booked a weeks holiday in November to
actually get it underway, I have delayed it as I'm busy with my MSc at the moment and the tin top is off the road at the moment, it's at
Toyota getting a new engine fitted.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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907
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 11:43 AM |
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Personally I wouldn't leave gaps.
Gaps close up when the joint is welded resulting in more shrinkage and therefore more distortion.
With a tee, butt up tight on the fillet sides and prep the 2 cut sides to match up with the rounded corner.
As a pro welder I love to see a weld untouched by the grinder.
When half of it is ground off I always think "I wonder what poo was under there."
Just use a flap disc to take the side off where bodywork goes against it.
Yours look ok mate. Well done.
Cheers,
Paul G
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sebastiaan
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 11:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Yours look ok mate. Well done.
Cheers,
Paul G
^ That is one HUGE compliment coming from his welderness himself :-)
Looks good from my perspective as well. Indeed just clean the splatter off with a flap disc and you are good to go. Good to see you moving on from the
wood frame as well ;-)
Keep at it!
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TAZZMAXX
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 12:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Personally I wouldn't leave gaps.
Yep, generally the only welds that need gaps are butt welds on pipe or X ray stuff on boilers etc. Thin wall box at 2 and 3mm would need to be a close
fit.
As a bit of a handy hint (to the OP), when welding into a throat like that side butt joint, try and keep the arc pointing slightly to the shoulder of
the continuous piece rather than the open end of the side branch. The weld pool will still catch the open end but will have less tendency to burn the
end away.
It looks a pretty reasonable attempt for saying you've not welded for a long time.
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b14wrc
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 12:43 PM |
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Thanks all, pleased you think it's ok. I wasn't sure.
I bought a new mask, light activated, well worth investment. Makes it a lot easier.
By the end of the build I reckon I will be ok at welding. Lol.
 lol, by the end of November the wooden frame will be in the bin....  will be a shame to see it go. Haha
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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zilspeed
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 02:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Personally I wouldn't leave gaps.
Gaps close up when the joint is welded resulting in more shrinkage and therefore more distortion.
With a tee, butt up tight on the fillet sides and prep the 2 cut sides to match up with the rounded corner.
As a pro welder I love to see a weld untouched by the grinder.
When half of it is ground off I always think "I wonder what poo was under there."
Just use a flap disc to take the side off where bodywork goes against it.
Yours look ok mate. Well done.
Cheers,
Paul G
This here ^^^^ is the final word.
If 907 says it's ok, you're good to go.
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907
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| posted on 20/10/12 at 04:20 PM |
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quote "his welderness"
You made me smile Sebastiaan
Cheers,
Paul G
Edit to add:-
My new pooter has an auto spellcheck and changed it to "his wilderness".
Could be it knows me better than you.
[Edited on 20/10/12 by 907]
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b14wrc
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| posted on 2/11/12 at 06:07 PM |
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Hi Chaps,
Ok, so have done a bit more weld development. With shocking discoveries!
That weld I showed above once cut open shows no real penetration, was very surprised. I had some people at work, welding engineers and was told I
would be silly to proceed with welds of that quality. I totally agree. I will post some pics of the macros later for interest of the group.
My question is, what welders are being used to weld up chassis of 2mm wall thickness?
I'm using a SIP105T, and have been advised it's a bit low on power, although with good skills I know the required strengh can be achieved,
my skills need to be a lot better than they currently are. Advice needed.
Been into BOC today and been offered a good deal on a Parweld xtm 171c.... I am tempted, but do I really need it??
Cheers, Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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