ChrisS
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 10:27 PM |
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Chassis worries
After having spent quite a bit of time recently putting together my mcsorley book chassis i thought id do a search on the forum for details on
additional strengthening. Obviously this unearthed a whole heap of threads, but the one thing that quite shocked me was the statement made by someone
saying that most homebuilt locosts fall to pieces after the first 500 km's.
Well i certainly hope that doesnt happen, but just to clear things up in my head has anyone exprienced any problems with a book chassis cracking at
welded joints etc.
Also ive modified the backend to have a tiger avon setup to allow the rear to be sierra donor parts. Only reason for this is because the avon
dimensions are available in the Jim Dudley book, so it seemed sensible.
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 10:37 PM |
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what a load of cobras!!!
Mine is 4 yrs old and hasn't fallen to bits yet!
Depends on the welding I guess.................
[Edited on 13/10/04 by Surrey Dave]
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splitrivet
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 10:38 PM |
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Sounds like a complete load of tosh to me chris, one good thing about the net you get loads of help/advice from guys who've been there but
theres just as many tossers as well,thank god we aint got too many of them on this site.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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blueshift
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 11:40 PM |
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Falling apart after 500km? complete pants. URL to the post please so we can all tear it to shreds. thank you.
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Mix
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 07:28 AM |
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but theres just as many tossers as well
Oi
Mick
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SeaBass
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 07:39 AM |
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Load of crap, I've hammered mine in all sorts of conditions over about 2500 miles since March and it hasn't shown one sign of weakness.
This is built to McSorley book plans with steel floor.
Cheers
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James
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:11 AM |
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Chris,
Post a link will ya.
If it helps you believe us- Hicost's enlarged chassis (which has had to cope with 400+BHP) was built in about '96 and did over 40,000
miles before he sold it.
It was somewhat re-inforced with a few gussets here and there but that was about it AFAIK.
Atb,
James
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mackie
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:25 AM |
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The worse I've seen is a bent wishbone and stories of chassis-side trailing arm brackets suffering from fatigue due to twisting forces applied
to them.
Over engineer anything you have worries about and you should be fine, it's a tried and tested design afterall 
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splitrivet
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
but theres just as many tossers as well
Oi
Mick
Present company exepted oh course mick
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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craig1410
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 11:48 AM |
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Hi,
Regarding the statement about most locosts "falling to pieces" after 500 miles. Was this specifically talking about the chassis?
I wouldn't be too surprised if "something" fell off or stopped working after 500 miles (or even 50 miles) because of the very nature
of an amateur build with so many areas which could be deficient in some (hopefully) minor way. Production cars have stringent quality controls to
minimise this sort of thing but even then you can get a Friday afternoon car with dozens of faults.
Has anyone managed to build a Locost from scratch and, once it was put on the road, never had to repair anything, ever?? Well done if you have but
I'd doubt it!
Cheers,
Craig.
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ChrisS
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:40 PM |
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Here you go guys a link to the post i mentioned originally posted by "TheGecko"
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=17735&page=2
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James
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:49 PM |
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Chris,
Reading that, I wouldn't think that was really what he was saying. Posted in full:
------------------------------------------------------
Jermyn,
I think you make a quite valid point. Many (many) cars have been built to the book design or close to it. So they fall apart after the first 500
kilometers? Generally, no (need to make the distinction between design quality and build quality ).
If you're looking for a stiffer chassis, try the Australian chassis mods. We have to actually pass physical tests of the chassis here so the
Aussie mods are tested and known to work.
I'm building a mid-engined car only loosely inspired by the Locost so I'm doing a fair bit of planning and checking to ensure that my
chassis is stiff and strong enough to: be legal, handle well, and be safe.
If you're building a book Locost in the UK, I'd say leave it alone.
Edit: just noticed you're in the US - the only reason you might make significant chassis mods is to deal with different donor components.
Dominic
[Edited on 22/9/2004 by TheGecko]
------------------------------------------------------
In fact he's saying quote: "generally, no" they don't fall apart!
Anyway, stop worrying and start building- it's far more fun! 
Cheers,
James
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ChrisS
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:59 PM |
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DOH
shouldnt have read so late last night should i.
Appologies to TheGecko.
Im getting on nicely with my chassis build now and ive just finished creating the custom R1 engine mount, so soon ill be doing the floor and the
rest.
Cant wait to see it on its wheels tho.
That leads me to a question tho.
When you weldthe floor to the chassis do you bond it with some sealant first or will the welding just burnit away?
Imjust thinking of how you make it watertight.
Cheers everyone.
Thought id attach a picture anyway.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/2IMG_1163.JPG
PS no wise cracks about the suspension brackets beingin the wrong place please.
[Edited on 14/10/04 by ChrisS]
[Edited on 14/10/04 by ChrisS]
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blueshift
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 04:51 PM |
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Weld it first, seal it later. I think most people fully weld the floor, then paint it, so shouldn't really need sealant. I'm not at that
stage yet though, not entirely sure.
by the way, your suspension brackets are in the wrong place.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
by the way, your suspension brackets are in the wrong place.
I thought you were just about to upset the OP by telling him the brackets needed to be cut of and rewelded!
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:21 PM |
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how long till you catch the carpet alight.....
atb
steve
ps
I dont think the seat in the pic is gonna fit - and you need two...
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James
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 07:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
Weld it first, seal it later. I think most people fully weld the floor, then paint it, so shouldn't really need sealant. I'm not at that
stage yet though, not entirely sure.
Agree with the first part- weldfirst, seal later.
Do you intend to fully weld the top side of the floor?
I've fully welded the underside and stitch welded the topside. Now I'm concerned about water getting into the join at the top- something
pointed out to me by Craig in another post.
I'll probably just use a sealant gun to apply a run around the inside of the floor.
Steve's right too about the carpet- move it before you fully weld! Especially if you're doing a long weld when fire can get a good hold
whilst you're busy still welding!
Also, I'd offer up your radiator/fan to the chassis before you fully weld in the diagonal chassis member you have in the middle of the LA/LB/LC
section. Conventional wisdom has a ' /\ ' shape being put in which allows the back of the fan to stick through.
Hope that helps,
James
P.S. I would never suggest you needed to move the wishbone brackets. Especially when they're so clearly there just to attach the aeroplane wings
too.
[Edited on 15/10/04 by James]
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ChrisS
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 08:11 AM |
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Ive been doing most of welding whilst theres been a 3 sheet mdf base ontop of my tressels. ive only just put the chassis like that to have a tidy
up.
Besides i like me carpet makes it more comfy to work in the garage, although i have noticed that the hot bits of weld spatter making little holes in
the carpet yesterday, so i guess ill be covering the floor or moving the carpet soon.
PS james your wrong about the wings cos i reckon just putting an arm out each side will be just as effective once roadworthy. Its gonna be a real
flyer. 
MM Shame about the diag in the front section as its already fully welded, as is most of the chassis now. looks like another DOH.
Ill have to get clever with the grinder by the looks of it. Damm.
[Edited on 15/10/04 by ChrisS]
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James
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 08:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisS
MM Shame about the diag in the front section as its already fully welded, as is most of the chassis now. looks like another DOH.
Ill have to get clever with the grinder by the looks of it. Damm.
[Edited on 15/10/04 by ChrisS]
If it fits with the rad/fan and nosecone then fine- don't worry 'bout it! You just don't wanna find out later!
James
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 09:16 AM |
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you will eventually set something alight. Ive had my clothes on fire twice with sparks from a grinder. The carpet will also get ingrained with metal
shards and crap.
atb
steve
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Bob C
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 09:23 AM |
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Hah - I remember setting my parka alight in my dad's workshop as a kid - they had a sort of cotton waste insulation. I remeber thinking
"my what a warm day it suddenly is" & taking the coat off. Immediately massive flames!
People who smoke in bed often have similar experiences, waking up feeling very hot - opening a window - getting back into bed & whoof, massive
flames!
Bob
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