smdl
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 04:08 AM |
|
|
Chassis Infill Panel Thickness
I have read a few threads debating the merits of using aluminum or steel for the infill panels between the K's and the M's where the rear
trailing arms mount. To be safe, I have decided to use steel, but am wondering what thickness I should use. I have some 14 gauge steel that I could
use for this. Would this be appropriate?
Thanks,
Shaun
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 08:16 AM |
|
|
It's partly up to you. When I was making a chassis I used a massive panel of 3mm plate! This is quite probably overkill though, but all I had at
the time, so I bunged it in. 14 gauge should be fine, and the other option or a bit of extra strength here is to make the two trailing arm brackets
out of a single bit of 2 or 3mm box, cut the welded/seamed side off and have a the bracket extend up to the top rail, and down to the bottom rail.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 10:31 AM |
|
|
Hey up. I used 3mm steel too after speaking with other members. Just don't wanna risk it bending and coming apart.
|
|
omega 24 v6
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 01:32 PM |
|
|
3mm steel in mines as well.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 04:06 PM |
|
|
I've used 16 gauge on mine, and I thought that was probably overkill. Then again I made some very hefty trailing arm mounting brackets as well.
|
|
caber
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 06:40 PM |
|
|
I used 16 Guage and made trailing arm mounts from one bit of 50 X50 X3 RHS slotted for the armsand welded to the frame and sheet.
Caber
|
|
David Jenkins
|
posted on 6/11/06 at 06:44 PM |
|
|
16 gauge for me too - plenty strong enough. The trailing arm brackets do most (if not all) of the work).
Using 50mm channel is a really good idea - I found out too late to do it on my chassis.
David
[Edited on 6/11/06 by David Jenkins]
|
|
smdl
|
posted on 7/11/06 at 03:40 AM |
|
|
Thanks for all the great replies. I am using rose joints for my suspension, so I have gone with brackets that are much narrower (1.25" OD) than
the book standard units. This goes a long way towards minimising the overhang issues that come with welding 2" brackets on 1" RHS, and
also shortens the span of the fixing bolt.
Cheers,
Shaun
|
|