welshboy
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posted on 6/1/07 at 10:50 PM |
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steel floor
hi all can anyone tell me if i can rivet a steel floor on to my chassis or do i have to weld it on for the sva its book chassis and 3mm steel floor
thanks
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nitram38
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posted on 6/1/07 at 10:58 PM |
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My car is not a 7 but I used aluminium and I riveted it. It passed sva.
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Simon
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posted on 6/1/07 at 11:02 PM |
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3mm
That will be slightly too heavy, and ever so slightly ott.
I'd be more concerned about the weight of the floor pulling rivets out
16swg is fine. I fully welded mine, though if you insist on rivetting, then attach with a sealant/glue as weld. Someone will be along shortly to
recommend one
ATB
Simon
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MikeR
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posted on 6/1/07 at 11:02 PM |
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yep, you can rivet a steel floor on. you don't need 3mm steel for the floor. i've used 1.2mm - same as bulkheads
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Mal
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posted on 6/1/07 at 11:08 PM |
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Steel Floor
The floor can be riveted on, which saves any distortion problems.
Westfields have 1.2mm thick aluminium floor panels riveted in place. If you use steel 3mm is far too thick and would be very heavy. Steel 1.0 or 1.2mm
thick would be plenty thick enough. I used pregalvanised steel sheet on my car held on with rivets and Sikaflex polyurethane adhesive.
Mal.
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Avoneer
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posted on 6/1/07 at 11:08 PM |
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2mm riveted ali get my vote every time!
If you're using steel, I'd weld it.
Pat...
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macnab
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posted on 6/1/07 at 11:10 PM |
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I have steel, wish it was ali
3mm is armor
[Edited on 6/1/07 by macnab]
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dnmalc
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posted on 7/1/07 at 07:37 AM |
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I have 1.6mm stainless held on with pu adhesive and rivets at approx 4 inch intervals
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welshboy
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posted on 7/1/07 at 10:19 AM |
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floor
sorry late night i ment 16swg floor as the book says but thanks for your help everyone
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big_wasa
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posted on 7/1/07 at 11:01 AM |
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Yep riveted mine at 50mm intervalls and used a Pu adhesive aswell.
Steel floor with out the boing
You would not believe how heavy a 16swg floor is
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MikeRJ
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posted on 7/1/07 at 11:25 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by big_wasa
You would not believe how heavy a 16swg floor is
Lowers the center of gravity though
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Avoneer
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posted on 7/1/07 at 11:56 AM |
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And the car
Pat...
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jacko
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posted on 7/1/07 at 01:36 PM |
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And the speed
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iank
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posted on 7/1/07 at 01:53 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by jacko
And the speed
well the acceleration anyway
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MikeR
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posted on 7/1/07 at 04:55 PM |
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As i've said before, i went for 1.2mm steel.
Can't remember the facts now but it worked out about as heavy as 2mm (or was it 2.5) ali and better penetration resistance for when i hit a
brick.
all in all it seemed a good compromise for a road car.
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welshboy
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posted on 7/1/07 at 05:30 PM |
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thanks everyone for all your help iv got next weekend planed now got to cut the floor out of a sheet
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jlparsons
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posted on 15/1/07 at 12:12 PM |
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was thinking of 2.0mm ali with rivets and silicone, anyone notice if this is a bit flimsy? Was thinking I could get some thin T-section and
bond-and-rivet that across where i'm going to step in and out to make sure it doesn't deform. Not sure if it's necessary, any
opinions? Also, it occured to me I've driven over a few random bits of debris in the tin top a few times that's dented the floor pan. Is
2mm ali strong enough in this respect?
Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during
shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Subject to
approval, terms and conditions apply. Apply only to affected area. For recreational use only. All models over 18 years of age. No user-serviceable
parts inside. Subject to change. As seen on TV. One size fits all. May contain nuts. Slippery when wet. For office use only. Edited for television.
Keep cool; process promptly.
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smart51
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posted on 15/1/07 at 12:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by jlparsons
was thinking of 2.0mm ali with rivets and silicone
Don't use silicone, use PU adhesive. Silicone is a sealant not a glue. PU will hold the floor in place much better.
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