cloudy
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posted on 16/2/08 at 04:49 PM |
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Need a bit of advice if poss...
I have two options for seat mouting, the top one is the "traditional" steel plates or the second a possible design that also allows for
moving the seat and is potentially lighter?
Any problems you can see with either? I will have a very thin ally floor so that won't add any additional strength. Is it desirable to have some
flex in the mounts for comfort?
Thanks all,
James
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nitram38
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posted on 16/2/08 at 05:11 PM |
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Wouldn't you feel better about using some 2" X 1" box section?
That is what I am using on my car.
It is the one thing that I believe should be strong as it will take all of your weight and any forces.
I have used mine to pick up 4 of the 6 point harness points aswell (per seat).
![](/galpreviews/seatsframe.jpg) ![seats on subframe](/gallery/seatsframe.jpg) seats on subframe
![](/galpreviews/seatsubframe.jpg) ![seat subframe](/gallery/seatsubframe.jpg) seat subframe
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cloudy
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posted on 16/2/08 at 05:41 PM |
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Need my bum to be as close to the floor as possible to maintain the proportions
The seats don't have to take much force at all really plus no shock loads at all. The seat belts take all forces in an impact...
James
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nitram38
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posted on 16/2/08 at 05:55 PM |
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If you look at the frame/seats, the curved bottom of the seats fits in the frame cut outs.
In otherwords your bum does come level with the floor (less the 4mm skin thickness and 5-10mm pad). It is only the Aluminium side runners that sit on
the frame.
I wanted the lowest seat I could get too.
I also wanted some comfort this time around so I opted for the bucket seats/pads.
They weigh about 5kg each with the side runners.
Admitedly, my seats are supported at each end and not in the middle, so that has a little bearing on my choice of material.
![](/galpreviews/3seat side.jpg) ![seats subframe side](/gallery/3seat side.jpg) seats subframe side
[Edited on 16/2/2008 by nitram38]
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kb58
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posted on 16/2/08 at 06:10 PM |
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What brand of seat is that (knowing full well it'll be a English brand, with a shipping cost to the USA of more than what they cost )
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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nitram38
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posted on 16/2/08 at 06:17 PM |
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From a uk ebay seller redpip1984
Seats around £200 per pair, pads another £40 per seat and side brackets about £30 a set, but you could make your own
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cloudy
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posted on 16/2/08 at 06:40 PM |
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5kg per seat is quite an achievement!
James
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Tralfaz
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posted on 16/2/08 at 08:43 PM |
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see www.jkcomposites.com for more info.
I was quoted 115 pounds for shipping a pair to the USA. (That was East coast,would expect more to CA)
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kb58
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posted on 16/2/08 at 11:20 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cloudy
5kg per seat is quite an achievement!
James
As long as they don't collapse or break in an accident.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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nitram38
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posted on 16/2/08 at 11:25 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by kb58
quote: Originally posted by cloudy
5kg per seat is quite an achievement!
James
As long as they don't collapse or break in an accident.
They aren't stranded fibreglass, but the black core mat which is a lot stronger.
The 6 point harness I am using would be doing most of the work in an accident
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tks
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posted on 17/2/08 at 11:39 AM |
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puff very very nice build pics are beeing show over here....
sad to see that the well bespoke rollbar idea is ditches (its was 3 pages discussion ![](/images//smilies/bigsmile.gif) ![](/images//smilies/bigsmile.gif) ) also i noticed that you changed the engine???
wy you changed for a 4inline and chain diff instead of the turned V2 and prop???
maybe this is lighter (no diff) but don't you suspect that chain getting hot (i mean really hot??) its a small chain you know.
keep up the good work!
saying that your project looks very very good/promising!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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cloudy
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posted on 17/2/08 at 08:29 PM |
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The engine has always been the GSXR powerplant, right from the off!
The crossover rollbar is still a possibility, haven't decided yet...
Chain heat shouldn't be an issue - this setup is pretty common with BEC middy's
James
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cloudy
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posted on 22/2/08 at 09:23 PM |
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Rear wilwoods have finally arrived!
There does seem to be a problem with the connectors for the willwood MC's, see below for the recommended part from rally design, fully screwed
in. Looks awfully wrong to me!
Last question, has anyone flipped the disc round on a cortina hub so the bell points outwards? moving the disc nearer the outside of the car. With the
disc mounted to the hub instead of sandwiched between the wheel it looks rather odd being so far recessed...
James
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Delinquent
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posted on 22/2/08 at 09:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cloudy
Rear wilwoods have finally arrived!
Looking good cloudy, hate to be the bearer of bad news though - that wheel aint ever going to fit over the brake disc... ![](/images//smilies/wink.gif)
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Fred W B
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posted on 23/2/08 at 07:06 AM |
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What part number calipers are those?
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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Sven
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posted on 23/2/08 at 04:37 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cloudy
There does seem to be a problem with the connectors for the willwood MC's, see below for the recommended part from rally design, fully screwed
in. Looks awfully wrong to me!
What's that 2nd/outer adapter? It definately looks wrong to me. For the M/C you need a 3/8-24 to flare adapter and then you can just connect
with a flare fitting on a hardline.
-Steve
"Lightheadedness through quickness"
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cloudy
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posted on 24/2/08 at 03:27 PM |
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Figured it out, just had to remove the silver section - Not sure what that's for, but the copper fits suitably on its own...
Took the chance in the daylight to get a pic
[Edited on 24/2/08 by cloudy]
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stuleah
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posted on 24/2/08 at 05:21 PM |
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hi
i am a noobie on here but have been following your progress (and getting some ideas) for quite a while.
just thought i would say that your doing a wonderful job and cant wait to see it finished. i am only down the road in peterborough so maybe when its
finished you wouldnt mind me coming and having a look.
keep up the good work
stu
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nitram38
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posted on 24/2/08 at 06:32 PM |
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Cloudy, your car is something else!
Somehow it looks a lot lower than mine.
Hopefully I will get the engine out sometime this week and then finish the welding.
Once welded, it is on to painting etc.
I am looking at different coatings/paints and at the moment I favour POR15 primer and and enamel top coat (advise appreciated).
I will still need to fabricate a mold for the floor pan (fibreglass) before I put the top coat on the chassis. I want to put the primer on asap as I
want to make sure that there is no rust forming.
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cloudy
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posted on 24/2/08 at 06:41 PM |
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I'm completely in the dark with paint, would be very interested to hear any progress you make there
Have you wheeled yours outside for a few sneaky pics yet? I suspect its just the lack of roll bar that's making mine look lower....
James
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nitram38
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posted on 24/2/08 at 06:49 PM |
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I have just removed all the bones at the moment, so no rolling pics, sorry.
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COREdevelopments
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posted on 4/3/08 at 06:24 PM |
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James its looking amazing!! it looks so low and small, i love the shape of it and would love to see it in the flesh one day!!
keep up the good work and the updates.
Rob
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cloudy
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posted on 12/3/08 at 01:52 PM |
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One to watch - Footman James just invalidated my build up quote when I called to take out the cover. For get this - my age!
I'm 22 and they say they would not insure me with a bike engine on the road so they cannot insure it offroad. What utterly flawed logic - how
does my age have any telling on whether the car is stolen? The policy does not and cannot cover any form of driving.
I've taken up a slightly more expensive quote with AF instead.
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chunkytfg
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posted on 12/3/08 at 02:05 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cloudy
One to watch - Footman James just invalidated my build up quote when I called to take out the cover. For get this - my age!
I'm 22 and they say they would not insure me with a bike engine on the road so they cannot insure it offroad. What utterly flawed logic - how
does my age have any telling on whether the car is stolen? The policy does not and cannot cover any form of driving.
I've taken up a slightly more expensive quote with AF instead.
Just out of interest how much does build insurance cost? and how old do you have to be?
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cloudy
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posted on 12/3/08 at 05:19 PM |
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FJ wouldn't say but i'm now with Adrian Flux for £61 for the year with no time limit on finishing the build...
James
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