Cita
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posted on 23/5/04 at 07:57 PM |
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NSDev could you please explain the "weld thing" Mig/Tig and the relation to both options?
I know the diff between Mig and Tig but i'm afraid that my English is not good enough to understand what you mean.
Thanks.
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craig1410
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posted on 24/5/04 at 11:48 AM |
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Blueshift,
For what it's worth I did mine using the Red option as I wanted to take as much stress away from my welding as possible. I used to build balsa
aircraft kits and always did them this way too. It just seems to "make sense" and looks "right" to me and my instincts
don't usually let me down. That's all the analysis that I need!
Now stop messing about and start building your chassis or are you planning to drive around in a V8 powered Black & Decker workmate for ever?
Cheers,
Craig.
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NS Dev
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posted on 24/5/04 at 01:56 PM |
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Cita, the difference between MIG and TIG is just down to controllability and prescision. With TIG you can put the weld pool exactly where you want it,
with prescision of fractions of a millimetre rather than millimetres. You can also control the heat much better than with MIG, getting a near perfect
weld every time.
The best MIG users can achieve this but it is not easy. TIG is not that easy either but it does not flatter crap welds in the way which MIG can.
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blueshift
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posted on 24/5/04 at 05:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by craig1410
Now stop messing about and start building your chassis or are you planning to drive around in a V8 powered Black & Decker workmate for ever?
Hehe. ALRIGHT ALRIGHT!
I am guesstimating how much tube to buy, then when I've finished respraying the new boot lid for my mx5, it's chassis time! (ok?)
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Peteff
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posted on 24/5/04 at 05:38 PM |
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Start with 7 lengths of 1" 16g and go from there.. Right, get on with it.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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craig1410
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posted on 24/5/04 at 07:19 PM |
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Yes I'd even go for 8 (7m lengths) as I think I only got 5 to begin with and then got another two or three later on. I've still got the
better part of one left which comes in handy at times for bits and pieces of construction. You'll also need the 3/4" stuff and I think I
got two 7m lengths of it IIRC.
I think the main reason I needed extra 1" square ERW is because I used it in place of the round stuff for the chassis triangulation to provide
more strength at the front for the V8 engine. I also have more triangulation than normal to accommodate my engine "cradle".
Blueshift, just remember the old chinese proverb about a journey of 1000 miles beginning with a single step. In the context of the Locost it is more
like a build of 1000 hours beginning with a single book!!! Oh well, at least it's only going to cost £250(0+)
Craig.
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 24/5/04 at 07:46 PM |
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I liked the saying
'building a car is like eating an elephant one peice at a time'
mine seems to be a lard assed overweight elephant
atb
steve
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Alan B
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posted on 24/5/04 at 08:08 PM |
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It's those f******g toenails........
sooooooooooooooo hard to chew...
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blueshift
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posted on 24/5/04 at 10:36 PM |
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Heh. I thought it would be optimal to figure out what steel I'd need for everything, then order it all in one go and get best bulk discount and
save on delivery and all that.
however, taking 6 months doing nothing but planning how to save £30 is fairly suboptimal too.
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craig1410
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posted on 24/5/04 at 11:04 PM |
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Blueshift,
If you can predict every bit of steel you will need in advance and never need to buy any more right through until you pass your SVA then you are a
better man than I !! I don't think you will even save £30 by getting it all in one go either to be honest.
As long as you buy stock length's of steel from a local "no-frills" stockholder then you'll be fine. Ask if they have an
offcuts bucket when you are there and offer the guy £10 or so for a bunch of offcuts. Try to get odd bits of heavier gauge (4mm to 6mm) steel plate
and rods as these come in very handy later and are costly to buy in short lengths.
Seriously though, just try to get your ERW tubing for the main chassis initially and buy the rest more or less as you need it. Here are the main sizes
which I bought:
For main chassis:
25mm x 25mm x 2mm(or 1.6mm) ERW
20mm x 20mm x 2mm(or 1.6mm) ERW
19mm x 1.6mm ERW round section for luggage section (1 stock length)
For turrets, suspension brackets and other chassis appendages:
100mm x 3mm flat bar (1 stock length)
40mm x 3mm flat bar (1 stock length)
25mm x 3mm flat bar (1 stock length)
13mm x 3mm flat bar (1 stock length)
For various brackets and mounts:
25mm x 5mm flat bar (2 or 3 meters)
50mm x 5mm flat bar (2 meters)
Miscellaneous:
1.6mm sheet for the floor
48mm x 3mm black pipe for the rollbar
I purchased my wishbones and built my panhard rod and trailing links using the Rally Design tubing and inserts for the rod-ends.
Hope this helps,
Craig.
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Peteff
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posted on 24/5/04 at 11:18 PM |
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Phoned two steel stockists today for 18g sheet, first one £33 second £21, why the difference?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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craig1410
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posted on 24/5/04 at 11:29 PM |
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The first guy thought you were a Muppet!
I was once quoted £132 by some tubing company up in Falkirk (IIRC) for enough CDS tubing to do my wishbones, panhard rod and trailing arms. The guy
was none too pleased when I asked if it was 18 carrat or 24 carrat gold they were made from... Some people just try it on and the only way to combat
this is to know your stock sizes, sound like you know what you need and avoid saying "what do you think?" at all costs!!!
Cheers,
Craig.
I've just noticed that I'm now a "posting freak" just like you Peteff! When did that happen? Is it 1000+ posts?
[Edited on 24/5/2004 by craig1410]
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Peteff
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posted on 24/5/04 at 11:49 PM |
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Posting freak status.
I think we should get an email from the management asking if we want to be promoted. If I could choose my title now I would be a marklar.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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