leto
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| posted on 5/6/04 at 07:52 PM |
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the biggest saving
Allthough saving weight on the driver is a good idea, replacing the engine is a faster.
From a recent discussion on the Swedish Locost forum:
Crossflow 1597cc 110kg
Pinto 1996cc 135kg
Zetec 1796cc & 1988cc 115kg
Suzuki Swift GTi 1300 DOHC 55 kg
Yamaha R1 incl. gearbox 62kg
[Edited on 04-6-5 by leto]
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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imull
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| posted on 5/6/04 at 09:55 PM |
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The best way to increase stength in tubes is to increase the diameter rather than the wall thickness.
Not sure if its the same for box section but would guess so as the second moment of area equations are the same idea from memory...
If it was me I would look at using the usual and adding extra bracing. This will increase strength, torsional rigidity and therefore handling far more
than the gains that you owuld get by using a thicker tube.
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Louis M
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 12:34 AM |
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Alright, so I've heard arguments saying thicker is better and that wider is better... any consensus?
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Cita
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 06:09 AM |
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Thicker section:more weigth
little gain in strength
perhaps easier to weld for the novice(i'm not sure about this though)
Bigger section:more weight
more gain in strength
needs redesign of frame
Nobody can answer the question of what to do Louis,it's up to you what you think is best suited for the car you want to build.
The fact that whole books have been filled on the design of space frames says it all.
There is no "specific rule" for a "specific frame" and if you need to make a consensus than i would go for more bracing with
smaller section tubing,all IMHO.
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leto
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 07:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Cita
than i would go for more bracing with smaller section tubing,all IMHO.
Fully agreed, IMHO.
Take a look at Australian builds, every self built chassis have to be tested there.
In Sweden there is a recommendation to use tubing with 2mm walls, it is said to easier to make good welds.
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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Louis M
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 07:37 PM |
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when you say redo the whole car, the overall design of the car will stay the same, but there will be diff. measurements... is that what you meant? if
so, then i am doing that anyway so i mine as well do that...
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 10:17 PM |
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for me, it was a lot easier to source 2mm square...
atb
steve
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crbrlfrost
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| posted on 7/6/04 at 04:26 AM |
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Hey stephan, I didn't mean to imply that the locost is a luxury car and there are a lot of amenities, but there are places to par weight from
it. Just wanted to clarify. I am actually using .049 wall tubing, approx 1.2mm, .020 (.5mm) aluminium sandwich panels bonded. I don't really
expect to save weight, although I should be inline with others, my goal was torsional stiffness. Is it overkill? Yes. But its educational at the same
time. I've built a book chassis and frankly I think it is plenty sufficient in terms of strength. I'd agree a little thicker is probably
easier to learn to weld on though, especially arc or gas. But, happy building! Cheers!
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