big_wasa
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| posted on 14/3/06 at 09:17 PM |
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Wont be cf its a "locost" 
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907
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| posted on 14/3/06 at 09:31 PM |
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I think I'll stick with my stainless floor.
If I run over a pheasant I don't want game pat'e in my lap. 
Paul G
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DIY Si
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| posted on 14/3/06 at 09:34 PM |
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But then you're wasting a perfectly good pheasant. At least if it is in your lap you can take it home and get the missus to put it in a
pie!
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907
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| posted on 14/3/06 at 09:52 PM |
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But if it bounces off a nice smooth stainless underside I can stop and pick it up, undamaged.
And sooooo hygienic too.
Paul G
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DIY Si
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| posted on 14/3/06 at 09:57 PM |
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Ahh, a very good point indeed sir. And, havin gjust knocked it over, it should be minus a few feathers, thus saving her indoors time and effort!
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 12:16 AM |
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plus there is no risk of breaking a tooth on lead pellets!
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kb58
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 01:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
I would go for a steel floor purely because it can be welded in place rather than pop riveted. Riveting the side panels is fine, but the floor has
to support the weight of your legs and the rivets are in a bad location wrt corrosion, especialy if your 7 has to live outside.
In a 7-type car how much weight can you put on the floor panel? Isn't the floor such that you can't stand on it because of the dash?
About rivets, yes there is a issue with corrosion, but no more so than with welding. A welded panel will get moisture in from the sides and top, like
when driving through a puddle. Worse, it's for certain rust will start since there is no paint coverage between the floor pan and the tubes.
If silicon sealer is used along the edges to prevent moisture intrusion... that can be used on riveted panels too.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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NS Dev
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 08:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
I would go for a steel floor purely because it can be welded in place rather than pop riveted. Riveting the side panels is fine, but the floor has
to support the weight of your legs and the rivets are in a bad location wrt corrosion, especialy if your 7 has to live outside.
Nearly every westfield built has a thin ally floor that is rivetted in.
I don't see many where it has fallen out?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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stevebubs
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 09:59 AM |
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11/12 years on and my fury floor is still there....
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Dutchman
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 03:45 PM |
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I was thinking on 2/2.5mm Aluminium Diamond Plate ... it is not slippery and a little Race look
but maybe 4x4 patern or eaven 1x1 I'll see what is bether looking
Tarzan English with foreign accent!
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MikeR
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| posted on 15/3/06 at 06:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
I would go for a steel floor purely because it can be welded in place rather than pop riveted. Riveting the side panels is fine, but the floor has
to support the weight of your legs and the rivets are in a bad location wrt corrosion, especialy if your 7 has to live outside.
Nearly every westfield built has a thin ally floor that is rivetted in.
I don't see many where it has fallen out?
i remember reading of a couple on the se7ens list that have had floor falling out problems ....... but a couple in how many?
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cymtriks
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:36 PM |
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There have been cases of rivets fretting out over time with ally floors. A stiffer chassis will generate less problems in this area but a normal book
chassis is only just stiff enough.
I'd use a stitch welded steel floor in 18 gauge (1.2mm). Heavier, yes, but much more durable for road use.
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procomp
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| posted on 22/3/06 at 09:02 AM |
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Hi just my 2 pence worth but whilst repearing a number of the the racing locosts with steel floors that have been powder coated after the floor has
been stitch welded . what you find is that the coating dose not stop rain or damp getting inbetweenthe floor and chassis and on one certain car after
removing a section of floor to repair chasiss a large area of the lower flat section of the floor tubes where heavily corroded.
And just to stop confusion the only race series that requires a sleel floor is the locost race championship. Kitcars and rgb can both use ally
floors.
Oh and the 750mc have recomended that steel floors on the locosts might be beter rivited on for the reason above as they have no way of controlling
the weather so we might end up getting a wet race ocasionaly.
cheers matt
(edited)
ps in 20 years of working with westfields i have never seen an ally floor come detached or have somthing go though the floor to the cockpit area
cheer matt
[Edited on 22/3/06 by procomp]
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Triton
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| posted on 22/3/06 at 09:06 AM |
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Ali floor everytime...16swg with a bucket full of rivets and sikaflex for good measure.
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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NS Dev
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| posted on 22/3/06 at 10:14 AM |
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yep that's what I have done. Floor is quite flexible but I can't see it coming off!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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