Cobra289
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| posted on 17/8/08 at 02:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doug68
Why do people always want to do this?
wouldn't it be easier just to remake the tie road the right length?
I will explain why.
1) Locost spirit.
2) Use of donor car parts. (sierra steering rack)
3) Availability at your resident area.
4) Fitments with the upright design.
At the other hand you are right a single piece is always better and simple.
I would be happy to get shop address that deliver the tie-rods on the requested length. [Sierra steering rack]
Regards,
Cobra289
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Doug68
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| posted on 18/8/08 at 07:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doug68
Why do people always want to do this?
wouldn't it be easier just to remake the tie road the right length?
Sorry stupid question is was late 
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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hellbent345
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 09:16 PM |
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i would say that mine is the same as yours chap, and i just did mine to fit a bonnet that i just did so that it all looked right! im fiberglassing it
all myself anyway, but i need the sw drg to get dims for laser cutting mdf for the buck! you are still welcome to it if you desire! also what would be
reqd to make a tie bar rather than an extension out of interest 
alan
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hellbent345
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 09:44 PM |
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just an update on the build, ive now finished my build table and put on all the wooden blocks! and got my steel  welding next woop!
the chassis bench
the steel!
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Cobra289
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
i would say that mine is the same as yours chap, and i just did mine to fit a bonnet that i just did so that it all looked right! im fiberglassing it
all myself anyway, but i need the sw drg to get dims for laser cutting mdf for the buck! you are still welcome to it if you desire! also what would be
reqd to make a tie bar rather than an extension out of interest
alan
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the offer, Today I have done some work, inspired on pictures, I think that I did mange to get a nice shape.
I see that you go the hard way, build one your self. I hope that my chassis accept some standard nosecones [MK or equivalent]
I have reduces the sketches to the minimum and make a separate apex surface.
So there are only 4 surfaces [top, U bottom, left and right apex] after that I did "Knit" all the surfaces and "Thicken" to
nosecone.
Thicken is a problem when the radius is to small, but I goat it.
Probably my expression Tie-bar was incorrect, we are talking here about the "Steering-rod' I need an extension [like most people] to get
the right length.
You can buy new steering-rods for the Sierra steering-rack but not with the right length.
Welding is a forbidding area, so the best is to have an extension.
Regards,
Carlos [Cobra289]
PS
Nice table! I will try to have the tubes "Laser Cut"
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hellbent345
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 09:57 PM |
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oh and i gave one of the calipers a lick of paint (poor quality paint, dont buy from waxacar off ebay people, it takes about a year to dry fully!)
what thinks you?
alan
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Cobra289
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 10:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
oh and i gave one of the calipers a lick of paint (poor quality paint, dont buy from waxacar off ebay people, it takes about a year to dry fully!)
what thinks you?
alan
Hi,
I have had the same problem with a good brand aerosol.
It was red and it was for the brake caliper of my Cobra, I can say that after waiting for a week I could install it without picking the paint. But
till today [3 years] that paint is in very good condition.
It was a heat resistant paint.
Regards,
Cobra289
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hellbent345
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 10:05 PM |
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Thanks cobra!
theres no way to make it (the steering extensions) from one piece?
i still havent done the fea on the chassis so i cant go much further until im absolutely sure that it will be stiff enough for my purposes and more
importantly survive a rollover situation!
Nice surface work on your nosecone, it looks a lot better than mine now, i think i should give surfaces a fair try now, as ive been using loft and
shell up to now, and its been giving..... mixed results lol
about the paint, its hard now, but i can still pick it off with a fingernail dunno if thats my fault or the paints! maybe i should have put it in
an oven? its supposedly heat resistant as well, i dont know if its therefore designed to be applied on the car, then the heat of the brakes working
cures it...? anyway i wasnt happy with thier communication so i still wouldnt recommend
[Edited on 19/8/08 by hellbent345]
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Cobra289
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 10:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Cobra289
quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
oh and i gave one of the calipers a lick of paint (poor quality paint, dont buy from waxacar off ebay people, it takes about a year to dry fully!)
what thinks you?
alan
Hi,
I have had the same problem with a good brand aerosol.
It was red and it was for the brake caliper of my Cobra, I can say that after waiting for a week I could install it without picking the paint. But
till today [3 years] that paint remains in very good condition.
It was a heat resistant paint.
Regards,
Cobra289
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Cobra289
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| posted on 19/8/08 at 10:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
Thanks cobra!
theres no way to make it (the steering extensions) from one piece?
i still havent done the fea on the chassis so i cant go much further until im absolutely sure that it will be stiff enough for my purposes and more
importantly survive a rollover situation!
Nice surface work on your nosecone, it looks a lot better than mine now, i think i should give surfaces a fair try now, as ive been using loft and
shell up to now, and its been giving..... mixed results lol
about the paint, its hard now, but i can still pick it off with a fingernail dunno if thats my fault or the paints! maybe i should have put it in
an oven? its supposedly heat resistant as well, i dont know if its therefore designed to be applied on the car, then the heat of the brakes working
cures it...? anyway i wasnt happy with thier communication so i still wouldnt recommend
[Edited on 19/8/08 by hellbent345]
I am shore that you can find a shop in the UK that will make a set of steering rods to your desired length, the problem here is always, how much it
cost.
I haven't dig on the item yet.
In my opinion a "FEA" is not necessary, there is a lot of literature [Thesis] that describes where to make the chassis stronger if it is
necessary.
Some people have mentioned to change the steel plates at the roll-bar for a dual tube.
I can say that this was my first solution a wile ago and I was surprise that people come to the same solutions.
The dual tube will reduce [a lot] the weight compared to the steel plates.
Regards,
Cobra289
[Edited on 19/8/08 by Cobra289]
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hellbent345
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 09:55 AM |
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if i was to change the plates for that second rail, would i have to keep the plates to attach the rollbar to? i want to add it anyway i think its a
good idea, but i dont know if there would be any reduction in weight, only an addition..?
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Cobra289
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| posted on 20/8/08 at 10:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
if i was to change the plates for that second rail, would i have to keep the plates to attach the rollbar to? i want to add it anyway i think its a
good idea, but i dont know if there would be any reduction in weight, only an addition..?
A very thing top plate of max. 2 mm is OK to have a flat surface. Forget the vertical ones, don't need it, just connect the pipes against the
new section [rail].
For the attachment of the roll-bar you can drill through the tube [require a trust washer].
In my case the hole pattern was changed for a triangle instead of the clasic square.
At the central part of your dual roll-bar you can do the same way to solve.
Now take the weight of all the plates and compare to the new solution and you will see that you have a significant weight reduction.
Watch out and remember that you need to introduce the differential. Make a plan how to do it and keep to that plan when you introduce diagonals.
Regards,
Cobra289
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hellbent345
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 05:05 PM |
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update on progress, ive made a good start of getting the chassis welded up, got a few piccies here
quality of some of the tack welds (co2 btw)
i had a bit of a fire
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Cobra289
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 05:18 PM |
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Nice job,
Looks pretty! be careful and keep some safety stuff around the work area, a large blanket helps a lot.
If you remember and have the time can you please pass the file of the box?
Best regards,
Cobra289
[Edited on 2/9/08 by Cobra289]
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Cobra289
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| posted on 2/9/08 at 05:19 PM |
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Nice job,
Looks pretty! be careful and keep some safety stuff around the work area, a large blanket helps a lot.
If you remember and have the time, can you please pass the file of the box?
Best regards,
Cobra289
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Mave
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 06:44 AM |
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About the steering arm extensions; on a Dax Rush they seem to consist of welded parts: the weld is just beneath the thick section in this picture.
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Cobra289
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 10:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mave
About the steering arm extensions; on a Dax Rush they seem to consist of welded parts: the weld is just beneath the thick section in this picture.
Someone told me that this is a SVA requirement, "No welds" at the track rods.
I can understand why.
But please check it, because I can't confirm that this is a rule, it was just a comment for form a person that I don't know very well.
Probably others will confirm or denay the statement.
Best regards,
Cobra289
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andy188
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 03:53 PM |
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chassis
Hi, im new to this, have been using this site during my build, suggest you add some tubes in front sections for wishbones mounting strength as has
been suggested previously (studies done by uni)
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andy188
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 03:54 PM |
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chassis
Hi, im new to this, have been using this site during my build, suggest you add some tubes in front sections for wishbones mounting strength as has
been suggested previously (studies done by uni)
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hellbent345
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| posted on 5/9/08 at 12:45 PM |
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you have email cobra sorry it took so long chap!
can you confirm what you mean about the wishbone strengthening andy? is that the y bars? ill put pics up later but i think ive decided to put y struts
in, but have the long peice running from the front to the v's at the back removable, a bit like a strut brace but at 90 degrees obviously, so
there is more room to get the engine in and out if need be what do people think?
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andy188
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| posted on 16/9/08 at 04:26 PM |
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chassis design
if you search using cymtriks, he has drawings etc for the chassis mods, i have added all that he has suggested, & some extra ones for roll cage
mounting posns, as i have incorperated a full cage on mine.
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chrisg
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| posted on 16/9/08 at 05:24 PM |
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Any welded component in the steering arms is an automatic SVA (and MOT) failure, which is why everyone uses screwed extensions and locknuts. This is
the equivalentof the track rod/track rod end connection.
That steering arm may be on a Dax, but it isn't how Dax extend thelrs.
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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hellbent345
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 11:44 AM |
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UPDATE
getting on with my build, ive fully welded most of the chassis now, just got a few worries about the bleedin size of my engine! but here are the pics
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Liam
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| posted on 15/11/08 at 09:30 PM |
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Looking good!
Awww that little engine looks tiny in there! No excuse for not going for the proper engine bay 'R' tubes - you know it makes sense!
Liam
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hellbent345
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| posted on 16/11/08 at 09:28 PM |
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haha yeh, that baby is so monsterous im going to get it all fitted and then put removable y tubes in a think! otherwise im never gonna fit anything in
i dont think!
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