mr henderson
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| posted on 23/11/08 at 03:29 PM |
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I wasn't trying to suggest it couldn't be done, but that maybe the time, effort and cost of going from where you are at the moment, to
where you want to be, might outweight the benefits of getting there.
I think if I was in your situation, and still keen to use that engine, I would be inclined to start again, by mocking up the engine position plus all
the necessary ancillaries, then making up a suspension bracket jig, then basically constructing the chassis around them.
It's a drag to have to cut up a chassis, but it will provide most of the tubes you will need.
Just a thought, but sometimes it is better to take a couple of steps back before starting again
John
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 23/11/08 at 04:12 PM |
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i think you would be better off with a 442 chassis .
ive been through all that you have, just trying to make my volvo engine fit .
the extra 2 inch chassis height allowed my engine to sit further back .
i started with a std chassis , realised that the engine was going to be too far forward (like yours is , but not as bad) and make for really bad
handling .
but you have to try it first to see what happens even if youve done all the measuring in the world .
its at this point where you realise that , if you go any futher with this project you might aswell build the chassis around your chosen donor , and
fit full bodywork on it - it makes the whole process easier , and in the end you can see why lots of kit manufacturers in the 70/80s made stuff like
they did , and you dont have to start modifying parts of the engine just to get it to fit .
perhaps im not explaining myself properly when i say that , but if you look under a stylus - its right there for you to see what you should be aiming
at .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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Simon
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| posted on 23/11/08 at 11:39 PM |
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Just going to measure height of my engine etc
Right, tops of my rocker covers are under 6" above top rail, and plenum top is bang on 12".
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 23/11/08 by Simon]
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Simon
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| posted on 24/11/08 at 12:03 AM |
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Ok, I would move forward the one under the sump, and the outer bottom chassis out by the minimum required.
The area formed under where the steering rack goes can be fully welded sheet, and you can add triangulation from top sides and front of you're
concerned about how far forward the "sump" piece has been moved.
Going from the pics of the BMW powered car, you need your rockers slighly above top rails, that should give you an idea. Where di you get the pics
from and are there more (if from the web) showing the build. Might be even more help if they are available.
Re your engine mounts, you'll need to get rid of them as you need space for exhausts and steering column, so make them smaller and not so over
engineered. My engine is held up by two 1.5" 16 swg tubes welded to the chassis and modified Rover mountings
On more thing - bin the BMW fan and use something a bit more modern, that'll give you another couple of inches
ATB
Simon
PS If no go, I've got 50 quid for the engine and box (delivered)
[Edited on 24/11/08 by Simon]
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kb58
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| posted on 24/11/08 at 12:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
I think if I was in your situation, and still keen to use that engine, I would be inclined to start again, by mocking up the engine position plus all
the necessary ancillaries, then making up a suspension bracket jig, then basically constructing the chassis around them.
This is really the only way to go in order to minimize the pain.
Regarding the pictures showing BMW lumps in the cars, what's unknown is how stiff the resulting chassis is. Just because they fit under the hood
doesn't mean the rest of the design worked out. The pan may hang way too low and critical structures may have been removed to make it fit.
OTOH it may be very well thought out and be just as strong as a standard Locost chassis. Any chance you can contact the owners of these cars and quiz
them on their decisions?
[Edited on 11/24/08 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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aerosam
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| posted on 24/11/08 at 09:43 AM |
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Mr Henderson,
the pics were in response to l0rd's comment that all BMW engines were unusable in Locost applications - no offense intended.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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aerosam
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| posted on 24/11/08 at 09:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Simon
Just going to measure height of my engine etc
Right, tops of my rocker covers are under 6" above top rail, and plenum top is bang on 12".
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 23/11/08 by Simon]
Thanks Simon. My engine is 13" above the top rails at it's highest point. Will the extra 1" make such a huge difference? Everything
on the top of my engine is plastic (ie. light - the whole lump weighs 146kg).
For the suggested chassis mods, i'll need to take some measurements as i'm not sure the width of the sump would allow for it to pass
through the bottom of the chassis, there are 2 tubes that the mounts sit on I haven't yet fitted, but in it's current position, they will
fit.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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aerosam
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| posted on 24/11/08 at 10:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kb58
[Regarding the pictures showing BMW lumps in the cars, what's unknown is how stiff the resulting chassis is. Just because they fit under the
hood doesn't mean the rest of the design worked out. The pan may hang way too low and critical structures may have been removed to make it
fit.
OTOH it may be very well thought out and be just as strong as a standard Locost chassis. Any chance you can contact the owners of these cars and quiz
them on their decisions?
[Edited on 11/24/08 by kb58]
Hi kb,
the v8 one was built in germany, unfortunately there are no pics of it during build stages and no contact details for the builder. One thing that is
interesting about it is that the top wishbone position is well below the top rail, which may suggest the bodywork was made taller than the chassis.
The straight 6 one is a super wide Haynes roadster build by Chris Gibbs brother-in-law. I've asked Chris a couple of times for more pics and
details, he hasn't sent me any yet but I'm not going to go harrassing him. He did give me some guidance on how to use my BMW front hubs
but as I have no idea on suspesion geometry i'm going to go for sierra front hubs and standard wishbones.
Had enough of this dictatorship known as LCB. Gone elsewhere, not coming back. Kiss my ass ChrisW.
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