ReMan
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 07:15 AM |
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I signed up on the undersrtanding that the sun would be shining 
www.plusnine.co.uk
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yellowcab
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 07:25 AM |
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Girl !
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yellowcab
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 08:50 PM |
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Holding a drift/ slide, arse hanging left, we were travelling left also towards the blue cone on the left hand side of the photo
Hanging back down the main straight
[Edited on 23/6/12 by yellowcab]
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cosmick
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 09:07 PM |
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Glad to see you have finally been able to drive the car in anger where you can experience the true performance of a Hayabusa powered car. It looked
like a lot of fun.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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yellowcab
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 09:27 PM |
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Me & ReMan on the way there, filling up...
bahhh broke it again, but fixed it
seems the previous owner had hit the bottom of the rear near side wheel, causing the upright to fracture giving me major positive camber on the
nearside, and the correct negative camber on the offside... does anyone know where I can get a replacement rear upright?
[Edited on 23/6/12 by yellowcab]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 09:33 PM |
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Crikey! All seems pretty corroded back there. Have you stripped it down and had a deeper look
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yellowcab
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 09:43 PM |
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Not yet - only got home about 2 hours ago lol
Video is now live: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddflS7W_tAk&feature=youtu.be
Enjoy 
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yellowcab
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 10:16 PM |
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One handed sprint video...
PS: no, I didn't like the way the white apex pole looked at me 54s lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffczZKGhFyQ&feature=youtu.be
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yellowcab
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| posted on 24/6/12 at 11:43 PM |
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So, it seems that the fracture in my rear upright may have already been there - but the trackday on Saturday certainly worsened it, I had a mooch back
through some old photos - this is what I found...
The day I bought it in January
About 4 weeks ago
Weekend before last...
Noticed positive camber at the rear at the track day on Saturday and found these fractures
Saturday evening, arriving home after track day
This evening, after tinkering with the car
My guess of +postive 2deg camber wasn't far out:
Offside rear looks fine, as it should, nicely tucked under
neg 1.5degrees of camber, cool
The rough surface, bumps, drifting has obviously made it more apparent, and we spotted it before it did any real damage.
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yellowcab
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| posted on 24/6/12 at 11:50 PM |
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So on with tonights other activities, I took some bits of and had a bit of a tidy up
The manifold heat wrap got torn on Saturday, so I decided to take it all off
Where the wrap was being held on the primaries right near the head with jubilee clips, I noticed that it wouldn't slide down the primary to
outside the car, as it was hitting something
Popped the camera inside to see that the triangulation bar is bent and is rest on the manifold primary - this is probably what the resonation through
the car is, or would you not think such a think could cause vibration? either way - I don't like it, any ideas of how I can correct it?
Meanwhile, I spat on her, and gave her a wipe
[Edited on 25/6/12 by yellowcab]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 12:02 AM |
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Got chatting to a Caterham owner who was particularly fast and well planted around the Sprint circuit, and just by eye he said the rake of my car was
definitely out... I think I remember him saying that the rear of the car should be circa 25mm higher than the front?
So tonight I measured the corner of the chassis
Drivers front, 130mm from the ground:
Drivers rear, 121mm from the ground
Passenger rear, 118mm from the ground
Passenger front, 122mm from the ground
So all in all, my rear is lower than the front by 12mm at maximum, and 9mm at minimum.
Would anyone mind measure theirs for me please? so I know whether just to raise the rear, or to raise the front aswell?
I appreciate wheel & tyre sizes play a part in height from the ground, but its more the difference between front and rear that I'd like...
for reference I'm on 15" wheels, with 205/50/15 tyres.
Thank you in advance for anyone willing to do this for me.
For how skittish the car was on Saturday, not surprised given the factors so far - but going one further, the car currently has 450 lb springs on
each corner, front and rear - so I whipped off the fronts, but not sure what to put where out of what I have
Again, any advice on what setup I should start with before my next test day, would be greatly appreciated.
I obviously have 4x 450 lb springs aswell as the above, if it helps make a decent combination
Currents:
[Edited on 25/6/12 by yellowcab]
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ReMan
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 07:15 AM |
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Mines 140 rear 110 front
Of those springs, *personally* I'd go for the 275 front and 350 rear
The only think is I guess that those are 8" 275's?
which *might* put you too low at the front, you'd have to try it. I know 8 and 9 inch have been used on indy
[Edited on 25/6/12 by ReMan]
www.plusnine.co.uk
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yellowcab
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 07:32 AM |
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Yes you're correct, the 275lb springs are 8" the others are 8.5".
Damn 110 at the front is low!
My sump would almost be touching the floor of I dropped a further 20mm... However it's answered my question that your rear is 30mm high than
front respectively.
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bobinspain
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 07:48 AM |
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Factory build MK Indy Busa-R. Chassis: 115mm front, 140mm rear. 15" Wheels, Toyo 888s.
I have the billet sump with swing arm pickup.
I still need a ramp to get on/off the driveway owing to the peculiar sloping geometry, (see photo archive).
Lowest point under the car is the electric reverse.
Great job by the way and superb photographs.
[Edited on 25/6/12 by bobinspain]
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Davegtst
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 07:54 AM |
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It seems a bit strange that some MK engines are mounted lower than others. My sump is pretty much level with the lower chasis rails with the billet
sump fitted which allowed me to fit a flat panel under the entire engine bay. Re the handling have you thought about taking it to someone like
procomp who can set it up properly and advise on the best spring rates.
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yellowcab
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 09:44 AM |
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I'm not adverse to taking it somewhere for the final corner weighting as that's specialist bits of equipment, but I'm the type of
person that wants to do 99.999% of it myself through research and development, trial and error.
I'd never dream of taking it somewhere as it is without even giving it a go myself, just not in my nature, and I love nothing more than to
tinker, learn and improve.
It's how I learn, by teaching and asking questions from those with relevant experience. Rather than just throwing a blank cheque at a company
and telling them to fix it.  )
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sdh2903
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 11:26 AM |
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I've just had my kit geo setup (not an indy tho) and with regards to the rake the guy suggested that 25mm was a little much. He suggested a max
of 15mm. Might help a bit with sump clearance!
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yellowcab
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 11:51 AM |
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Thanks chap.
I feel awfully nervous to lower the front end much more due to dry sump pan hanging so low.
For me to get as low as bobinspain 115mm or ReMan at 110mm it means dropping the front a further 15-20mm eeek!
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Pezza
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 04:40 PM |
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We went for 75mm clearance under the sump on our Indy, with the rear being 20mm higher than the front (measured from the lower wishbone mounts rather
than side panel, with my dad in the drivers seat)
This book came in quite handy for us.
Car felt much more stable after we set it up.
1 degree rear toe in, 0.5 degree front, 1 degree neg camber front.
You couldn't pwn your way out of a wet paper bag, with "PWN ME!!" written on it, from the "pwned take-away" which originally contained one
portion of chicken tikka pwnsala and the obligatory free pwnpadom.
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ReMan
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| posted on 25/6/12 at 07:53 PM |
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And I can lend you said book
But you knew I was going to say that did'nt you
www.plusnine.co.uk
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yellowcab
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| posted on 26/6/12 at 06:14 PM |
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Thanks for the book Col'
Went down the garage just, fitted the 275lb springs to the front, and its incredibly soft just pushing on the front of the car, the sump isn't
far from the floor!
Does this sound right? Going to put the 350lb at the back, and see how it feels on the road...
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yellowcab
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| posted on 26/6/12 at 11:20 PM |
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So went down the garage for an hour this evening, here are the front legs back on, couldn't preload the springs any more than this without a
C-spanner, so I did them this much by hand...
So my attention turned to the rear setup, someone earlier in the thread asked for a photo of the rear without the wheel on, can't remember why,
but here it is anyway:
Rear shock absorbers mounted upside down, previous owner told me it was because you could adjust them easier...
As you can see, upon jacking up the car, the spring just rattles around and is no where near the threaded spring 'seat'
As I suspected, another pair of 450 lb springs at the back aswell...
Mike - you were right regarding the open length of the Protechs being 13inches eye-to-eye
Gave them a quick wipe down for now, knowing they'll be off again soon
Managed, struggled, and about killed myself getting some 8.5" springs onto the shocks, and again, preloaded them this much without C-spanners -
still need more
Fitted to the car the correct way up, Mike - they sit slightly angled
The car sits 'normal' now, as in, what I saw every other kit car sitting like at Stoneleigh, with the rear end higher than the front
Time for some measurements
Drivers front - hardly change 132mm (2mm higher than previous)
Drivers rear - big difference 154mm (33mm higher than previous, now +22mm higher than the front)
Passenger rear - big difference 148mm (30mm higher than previous, now +19mm higher than the front)
Passenger front - hardly change 129mm (7mm higher than previous)
I left drivers rear an extra thread higher so when I sit in it, it should even out a little
So now my car has gone from 450lb on each corner, with the shock absorbers all on fully softest.... to 275lb 8" at the front, 6 out of 13 clicks
on the shocks, and 350lb 8.5" on the rear, again with 6 out of 13 clicks on the shocks
Just as a starting point, and see how I go...
[Edited on 26/6/12 by yellowcab]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 29/6/12 at 07:21 PM |
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Going to be removing the 350 rears, and swapping them for the 200s as advised by Protec (through Mike) and Danny.
New Simpson Bandit lid came today, as old one was getting a bit big.
New rear uprights ordered through Danny @ MK - and booked my next trackday at RAF Wittering on Sunday 22nd July
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roadrunner
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| posted on 29/6/12 at 08:21 PM |
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All the ground corner measurments will be meaningless when you finally get it corner weighed. Apart from front to back.
I initally set my suspension up with a tape measure at the corners, like you. But when I got it on the scales there was a slight difference on
opposite coners.
Get it wright with the scales for best handling.
Imagine a four legged table with one leg 1" shorter than the other three, thats what a car is like if the opposite coners dont weigh the
same.
Brad
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Pat_T
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| posted on 2/7/12 at 08:22 AM |
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Not only this but depending on whether you intend doing most trackdays one-up or two-up, get it corner weighted with realistic driver/passenger
weights in the car, and half a tank of fuel....
www.instagram.com/patroclueus
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