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Author: Subject: shotblasting cost
hellbent345

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
shotblasting cost

how much would it cost to get the chassis shotblasted? average prices, what it cost you etc? and what is the best thing to do about rustproofing etc?
thanks al

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mr henderson

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
I don't know how much it would cost, but I do know it will need to be rust protected immediately afterwards. I think you might need to think in terms of having it shot blasted and painted or powder coated at the same time (or pretty close to that)

If it was me I would give it a good wire brushing and paint it with Wickes water based metal paint (similar to smooth hammerite)

John






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cloudy

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
Is this the bit where nitram and I come along and recommend epoxy mastic 121??

I sand blasted the chassis myself for the price of a bag of dried sand - just means covering EVERYTHING in the garage with plastic sheet first...


James

[Edited on 19/12/08 by cloudy]

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chrsgrain

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:41 PM Reply With Quote
If you're going to do that ^^^^ PLEASE make sure you use decent (preferably positive pressure) respiratory protection.

I got my chassis blasted, etch primed and powder coated for about £150 I think.

Chris





Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...

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rusty nuts

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
How to get sylicosis ? in one easy lesson.
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mark chandler

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:51 PM Reply With Quote
Blast and prime around here is £200.
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cloudy

posted on 19/12/08 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle filter mask and full face shield....

James





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chrsgrain

posted on 20/12/08 at 09:48 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting


Though usually correct - silicosis is generally progressive and due to chronic low dose exposure to silicates causing inflammation and then essentially contraction of the lungs - on occasions - when exposed to high volumes of inhaled silicates, you can get acute silicosis which develops quickly.

Unfortunately all the forms are pretty much untreatable - so it aint worth the risk! Decent respiratory protection is a no brainer....

Chris





Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...

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rusty nuts

posted on 20/12/08 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle filter mask and full face shield....

James


Sorry but thats a load of bull , if you really think its worth the risk thats up to you but don't tell others that its safe to do so when it isn't. At least one member of this forum has problems just from using a pressure washer let alone a known hazard!

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David Jenkins

posted on 20/12/08 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
James,

You might like to read this:

HSE link



[Edited on 20/12/08 by David Jenkins]






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hellbent345

posted on 20/12/08 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
i wouldnt worry guys i dont have a compressor or sand blasting equipment anyway! i might have to spend a load of time wirebrushing and sanding the chassis after buying some epoxymastic 121 if its a helluva lot cheaper, and the same strength as powdercoat? ive got a tin of hamerite smooth but its really easy to scratch it off in places, just with your thumb im wanting something rather more resistant to stone chips than that!
thanks guys
al

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David Jenkins

posted on 20/12/08 at 10:28 AM Reply With Quote
I'd use a wire brush in an angry grinder, followed by some form of rust protective coating. The only hazard with a wire brush is the wires shooting off, usually into my legs! I ended up wearing my leather welding apron to fend them off...

I had my chassis blasted, primed and plastic coated professionally for around £150, but I used a wire brush and POR-15's Metal Ready for all the other stuff (e.g. the roll bar).






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hellbent345

posted on 20/12/08 at 10:39 AM Reply With Quote
did you mean to say plastic coated? if so where did you get that done and how durable is it? id have thought plastic would be a lot less prone to cracking off if a stone hits it, so id be well interested in getting mine plastic coated ... assuming of course there is such a thing and it wasnt a typo
thanks al

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David Jenkins

posted on 20/12/08 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
I should have said powder-coated!

(which is a sort of plastic... he said, making excuses...)

There are good and bad sides to powder coating - it can look very smart, and it is durable if properly done. However, it can flake off in sheets if not done properly, and stone chips can lead to water getting behind the coating and lifting it off (or causing rust due to trapped water). Last minute chassis mods can be a pain too.

If I was doing my chassis now, knowing what I do from personal experience, I'd probably get the chassis bead-blasted and primed by a professional, then paint the chassis myself. There are some good products out there, but I'd probably use something simple like Chassis Black, which is an old-fashioned oil-based paint. It will chip, just like every other coating, but at least it will be easy to fix with a paintbrush.

Some people on here use Dulux gloss, and they say that it works well!






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cloudy

posted on 20/12/08 at 04:29 PM Reply With Quote
Given as you didn't even spell the condition correctly It looked you were just regurgitating hear-say,

It's a big problem granted - but a lot of what we do is risky - grinding dust is just as bad and I bet most people don't wear pos pressure masks whilst doing it...

Obviously doing it as a job day in day out you need to not incur even incremental problems, but a once off is different...

That HSE report states the breathing equipment was not in good condition and commerical sandblasting is far higher velocity and producing far smaller particulates than a home blaster on the end of an air line - which produces minimal dusting anyway as the grains remain intact

James




quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle filter mask and full face shield....

James


Sorry but thats a load of bull , if you really think its worth the risk thats up to you but don't tell others that its safe to do so when it isn't. At least one member of this forum has problems just from using a pressure washer let alone a known hazard!






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rusty nuts

posted on 20/12/08 at 04:47 PM Reply With Quote
Big deal! I spelt something wrong. This happens to be a car forum not a spelling competition. I suppose you have never spelt something wrong? As for advising people, it would be a good idea to get your facts straight.
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cloudy

posted on 20/12/08 at 04:52 PM Reply With Quote
Cool it! I wasn't having a go at your spelling at all, I was just stating a lot of people talk about subjects without knowing all the facts.


Perhaps it would have been more helpful for you to post a balanced view pointing out the dangers of sand which I should have instead of just making a snide remark?


[Edited on 20/12/08 by cloudy]





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MikeR

posted on 21/12/08 at 02:41 PM Reply With Quote
i asked about doing this a while ago. Ben on here is a doctor and he, politely, explained its a REALLY bad idea. I listened.

My plan is to go to my local blasting place and get used "J Blast" media. Its very agressive new, but once used its going to be hopefully a lot more like what i want.

Of i may just use mr angry grinder for a day

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