Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:22 PM |
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Chassis paint
What sort of paint should i be looking for? Anyone recomend anything?
Also do i need to prime it first (red oxy primer etc?) or can you get self priming paint?
Thanks
Mikkel
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chris_smith
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:26 PM |
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maybe try this
linky
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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maskell01
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:31 PM |
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I Used Hammerite!
Thinned down with white spirit then sprayed through a gun!
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skodaman
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:45 PM |
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Using David's zinc based grey primer and satin black on mine (both cellulose).
Trying to buy locally proved impossible but it's available on ebay no problems.
Skodaman
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skodaman
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:45 PM |
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Using David's zinc based grey primer and satin black on mine (both cellulose).
Trying to buy locally proved impossible but it's available on ebay no problems.
Skodaman
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austin man
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:53 PM |
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I would second that go for a zinc based primer (unless your looking at saving weight as it is a heavy paint, then hammerite/ smoothrite it for final
protection. A lot of people have their's powcer coated this can blister if not done correctly
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Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 09:56 PM |
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The hammerite stuff seems to be direct to metal stuff, would this be ok? Dont to have to spend more money any time messing with primer
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minitici
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:05 PM |
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Hammerite / smoothrite does not stick well to nice new shiney steel - prefers rusty metal 
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big_wasa
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:06 PM |
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I sprayed mine with synthetic paint. Its like cellulose. It took three weeks to go hard enough so it didnt chip by looking at it.
I wish I had tried epoxy mastic. Its on ebay and the seller is in Market Deeping. just dont brush it on. See Nitram's posts for details 
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Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:08 PM |
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mightr just leave it out in the rain for a bit then
SO it wouldnt be suitable without some other primer then?
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:09 PM |
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I used Hammerite direct on the chassis in some places and its utter pish, flaking already and i haven't even got the thing on the road. Get some
primer on it first, you'll not regret it. If I could I'd strip the whole thing and respray it.
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Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:18 PM |
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anyone recomend a primer? IS red oxide good primer good for this sort of thing?
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:21 PM |
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I have the advantage of being a bodyshop manager and need an understanding of paint for my job. I almost didn't answer this thread because it
will probably make me sound like a nasty old grump, only one of the replies contains any valid content, and that is the link to chassis paint - I
cannot think why they call it that
Hammerite is good paint for applying to heavily rusted items as it has no self etching properties of its own and relies on the rough surface of
corroded metal to bind with the surface. It has added silicone to give the hammered finish which will contaminate your spray gun forever (any future
coat of any paint will have 'fisheyes' of silicone - it only needs a few microgrammes.) If you add white spirit to Hammerite it will break
down the binders - they have their own specialised thinners which you can buy.
David zinc 182 is not cellulose based, neither is satin black unless it is over 20 years old.
Heavy paint - not even going to go there!
Synthetic is a good paint to use but is the exact opposite of cellulose
There - everybody hate me now
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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mark chandler
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:21 PM |
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I,ll second that, never found hammerite that good, its so hard it chips. If you want locost get a can of dulux oil based black paint from B&Q, it
will take a while to go off but is resistant to knocks.
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Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:28 PM |
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well mark what combination or what paint would you recomend
Im looking for blue paint aswell so need to be available in blue
Thanks
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:47 PM |
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How much do you want to spend - the ultimate is a shot blast then a chromate etch then a wet on wet primer followed by a 2K solid colour but that
would need a lot of pro equipment and costs.
The cheapest is a rubbed down chassis with 80g production paper followed by 2 roller coats of zinc 182 (get the special 'light' variety)
followed by non drip gloss with a gloss roller, use enough coats to give complete opacity. Domestic gloss (quality brand) is actually quite a good
option, although automotive synthetic would be more resilliant.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Miks15
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 10:54 PM |
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What are your toughts on red oxide primer?Dad has a fair bit lying around and it would be free.
Would this be good enough to use then a gloss coat on top?
Thanks
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mark chandler
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 11:00 PM |
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Pop down your local agricultural suppliers, they do stuff called Teamac. It comes in colours such as:
Ford blue
JCB yellow
Masey Furguson grey
Not the cheapest but sticks like @@@@ to a blanket and can take a whack.
Brush or spray, with a good finish.
I painted the chassis of my landrover with this, used to get beaten to bits when racing, the stones soon chipped off hammerite, this stuff was
untouched. Worth the extra dosh IMHO.
Regards Mark
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 11:10 PM |
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Transport enamel, I had forgotten about that - another trade name is Tekaloid - good stuff
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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MikeR
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| posted on 22/12/08 at 11:35 PM |
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So the summary is, rub down (maybe with angry grinder and wire brush aka "the tool" ).
Coat with zinc based primer
Finish with either...
Transport Enamel
Or
Tekaloid
or
Chassis Paint
or
Decent Gloss paint
If you where to add the epoxy paint into the equation mark what sort of order (ignore price) would you put the top / final coat paints?
(i don't hate you mark, i like to listen to someone who has 'work' experience as opposed to 'hobby' experience. Just
don't be upset if i completely ignore you as for some stupid reason i decide i know better!)
(usually i find out i'm wrong, but i seem to like to learn by making mistakes)
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 23/12/08 at 08:09 AM |
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you could buy some of the marine hull paints, they tend to be very resistant to corrosion and salt and there's tough zinc primers too.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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PAULD
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| posted on 23/12/08 at 09:30 AM |
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Chassis paint
I used hammerite and although it has its uses chassis paint isn't one of them. It has chipped badly and I have spent some time under the car
replacing it.
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steve m
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| posted on 23/12/08 at 09:44 AM |
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I used a zinc primer, and then hammerrite
to be honest IMHO hammerite is crap, it chips very easily, and on my car now the whole chssis realy needs to be redone
Yet my last project , Covin Porshe, i was advised to use normal house hold black gloss, over a good zinc primer,
I havent seen the Covin for about 2 years, but when i did the chassis still looked like the day i painted it
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 23/12/08 at 09:54 AM |
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I’ve used spray smoothrite on the bluebirds suspension components and its worked very well but need quite a few coats about 10 minutes apart while
hung over an electric fire, the gloss is quite superb and its went very hard and tough. They were then left to cure in the house for a week before
refitting. Can’t say how well it would last in the real world as the cars back in its plastic bag till the spring but they sure look nice 
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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dhutch
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| posted on 23/12/08 at 10:45 AM |
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Been reading this thread with interest.
- I have a 17 yo seven which needs something doing in terms of chassis paint.
By best thought so far is to cant the car over to about 45 degrees (for access) then presurewash it all and rub down as best i can (pannels in place)
and then see what im left with.
- If its mainly down to steel, then clearly i need primer/undercoat followed by something suitable.
- Then, or if its mainly actaully sound paint still, a suitable top coat. That is compatable with what went before.
On the boat (narrowboat) we have:
Blast primer (very thin, red coloured, two pack paint)
Zinc Epoxy (high built zinc rich epoxy based undercoat)
Then eather a two pack Acryilic Urethene for the topsides, or a one pot Underwater Vinal Primer for the blacking.
My favoured job, which is how i would start on a new chassis, would proberbly be the blast back to bright, then use the blast primer, followed by the
zinc undercoat suitably thined to reduce build a little, then a top coat of choice. Could be one of the above, else proberbly the acrylicurethene as
it have loads. (the blacking would be fantasic, but for future, is compatable with just about nothing, and its thick and heavy)
Failing that, ive heard a lot about Por15 and an keen to have a play!
Daniel
[Edited on 23/12/2008 by dhutch]
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