Z20let Corsa
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 10:38 AM |
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footwell width??
well im begining to make the transmission tunnel. its a +4 chassis and a rover 3.5 v8 engine. what is an acceptable width on the footwell ends??
(where the steel plate goes on. the clutch housing seems pretty wide and the footwell ends arent going to be very wide. how wide is yours??? and its
wider on one side than the other (starter motor) so should i make one side wider than the other or keep them the same and have some fresh air in the
tunnel on the passenger side?? thanks.
locost +4 v8 in progress.
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mr henderson
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 10:52 AM |
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How much room is available for feet is a variable- factors include-
How far forward the engine/gearbox is (the further forward, the less width is needed due to the bellhousing being sort of triangular
How far back the footwell line is (due to the angle of the rails, further back the more width
How much clearance is allowed between bellhousing and tunnel (depends on how much movement the engine and gearbox mountings will allow)
My suggestion would be to start by deciding how much foot room you need to be able to safely operate the pedals, and consider where you are going to
put your left foot when cruising, then vary one of the factors above until your requirements are met.
John
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 10:53 AM |
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Personally I'd make them as big as you can get away with giving the engine/gearbox about 1/2 inch clearance depending on how hard the engine
mountings are. There's precious storage space away on these cars and passenger footwells are great for stuffing things in. The hot air will flow
under the car rather than through the tunnel so just get as much foot room as possible.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Z20let Corsa
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 11:25 AM |
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so when fitting the engine is there anything to cater for such as where it is to be positioned? how do i decide where it needs to be?? do i need to
have a rolling chassis before i make the engine mounts etc?? because the origional plan was to mount the engine before anything else??
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 11:38 AM |
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Really you can be quite flexible how it’s lined up, nothing says it should be exactly centred though it’s better for the prop shaft joints but not
critical. More important is trying to keep the engine as close to the same level as it was in the donor so carbs and oil levels function normally.
Check also the steering column route, exhaust downpipes and the alternator location before making the mountings as its very common that those end up
clashing, especially the steering column. Sometimes it’s just an inch which could make all the difference and you’ll curse yourself if you spot that
later on once the mountings are made. Check too where the gearlever is coming out and sit in the car and see if its where you want it, you might have
to change the location of the steering wheel and column to get it all spot on. One of the great things about building your own car is you can make it
fit you rather than the other way round 
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 02:53 PM |
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Get as much drivers foot room you can.
My engine is offset 1" because I needed that 1" of pedal room. I will still need skinny shoes to drive. Also have 1" more butt
space on the drivers side. Not sure my gf will fit her nice hips in the passenger side though 
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/2/09 at 05:27 PM |
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Mine is quite different side to side, if you will not be taking many passengers push it over a little bit to aid weight distribution and grow the
footwell on the drivers side.
No-one has ever noticed looking, although when people who have driven westfields have got in they have commented on how roomy the pedal area is.
Regards Mark
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