thekafer
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 03:45 AM |
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Finished my riveted fuel tank.
I know what your thinking and a riveted fuel cell wont leak,trust me. They are fabbed this way in many aircraft.
Heres a pic of it. I will test it for leaks with the manometer we have at work.
Cheers, Fletch.
Oh, They'er solid ali rivets...
[Edited on 7/4/04 by thekafer]
 
Rescued attachment riveted tank.JPG
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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nicklondon
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 05:55 AM |
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nice tank but what is the thing in the background of your pic?
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Staple balls
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 06:08 AM |
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very nice tank.
quote:
nice tank but what is the thing in the background of your pic?
i dunno, but i'd say someone actually used the plans out of the book without sorthing the mistakes 
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gjn200
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 07:19 AM |
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Helicopters
<- Me!
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pbura
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 12:06 PM |
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Very impressive 
Is doing this within the capabilities of the average home builder? I'd love to have an ali tank.
Would there be any point to posting a little tutorial?
Probably a blue-ribbon dumb-ass question: You said that it's a fuel cell, so what are you going to do for a liner, baffles, filler, etc.?
Pete
Pete
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Martin Sports Car
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 03:25 PM |
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Nice 
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sgraber
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 11:34 PM |
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It looks great.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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thekafer
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| posted on 7/4/04 at 11:52 PM |
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I'm sorry I said fuel cell out of habit. It was shot together "wet" with a mil-spec fuel cell sealant known affectionately to
aircraft mechanics as Proseal (prostink). I just fabbed the parts as if I were going to weld it and shot it together (riveting is more in my comfort
zone). This turns out to be the same method of construction as a "wet wing" on aircraft. Steel would work just as well and would be easier
to form the end pieces and baffles.Use monel rivets instead.Pete, the baffles are formed on the same form block as the end pieces.I just cut the
corners out of them to let fuel pass.I got the design off Mike Polans web site.
That an EC-135 helicopter in the background made by Eurocopter....
On to the floor!......
Cheers Fletch.
[Edited on 7/4/04 by thekafer]
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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elitewiring
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| posted on 8/4/04 at 12:39 AM |
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fuel cells made in this way do leak on aircraft, more due to flex in the wings, i dont think your cell will leak as its in a car and so much
smaller.
was there a reason for using proseal, why not us a regular a/c sealant like 1422 b2.
thats what we us on the c130's i work on.
(although i dont surpose your paying for it!!!)
[Edited on 8/4/04 by elitewiring]
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thekafer
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| posted on 8/4/04 at 01:48 AM |
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I used AMS-S-8802A B2 because it was free(out of legal date). 1422 b2 is a hightemp fuel sealant used in fire-wall and engine deck areas is'nt
it? We use very little of it anyway so not enough of the stuff around to go legal date on us.
If I remember its brown and possibly the only thing that smells worse than proseal..
Cessnas,Beeches ect.. G/A Private planes that use gasoline typically dont leak which what I was refering to. But your right,C130's
,141's, C5's all leak simply out of spite I think 
Fletch
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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elitewiring
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| posted on 8/4/04 at 03:21 AM |
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im not familiar with your ams number, but we use 1422 as a general sealant, the only proseal we have used is proseal 800 which we use for high temp
sealing on electrical pressure bungs on engine firewalls. this is a very nasty type of sealant, 1422 fairly ok.
anyway this is getting really sad, i feel like im taking about work all the time.
good luck with you fuel cell.
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tractorboy
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| posted on 8/4/04 at 05:47 AM |
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elite wiring you really should get out more!!!!!! (by the way its ps700 on the fire walls)
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Peteff
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| posted on 8/4/04 at 09:13 AM |
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If I remember its brown and possibly the only thing that smells worse than proseal
To bring this topic back to a more normal level (basic toilet level) can we put a warning in about using brown smelly stuff to seal tanks.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 13/4/04 at 12:25 PM |
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Hmmm PRC 1422.... fantastic stuff - you could use it to stick bridges together.......
Oh yes and the heavy fumes are great when your working on your back under a fuselage applying it as a sealant.........
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 13/4/04 at 12:43 PM |
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You lads sound like you could start assembling robin hood / lolocosts new rivited car (Bolteon) it would then qualify for the low flying title.
any one got any ABE 320 epoxy.....stick like s***T to an army blanket...
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merkurman
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| posted on 30/4/04 at 11:59 PM |
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I was wondering if one coule pop rivet a tank and seal the rivets with some epoxy on the outside then seal the inside with a regular automotive tank
sealer? looking for ways to fab a tank with ease.
(looking into a monocoupe for the next FSAE car)
Nick
1962 fairlane with a 200" six and T5 5spd, shaved trim air ride, t3/t4 turbo and soon to be EFI
-- looking to put a offy tripower intake on soon
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thekafer
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| posted on 1/5/04 at 06:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by merkurman
I was wondering if one coule pop rivet a tank and seal the rivets with some epoxy on the outside then seal the inside with a regular automotive tank
sealer? looking for ways to fab a tank with ease...."
Some "wet wings" are pop riveted(in places) with Cherry Max rivets and sealed from inside, but check on Cherry Max prices and
you'll know why we are building 7's and not 172's. My tank was shot together w/ms20470ad4-3 solid rivets (about 200 or .50 cents
worth) and $16.00 worth of aluminum. I'm going to build one for a guy building a bec as soon as he settles on some dimensions. If you get
someone to help you shoot'em, you should have no trouble.
good luck! Fletch
[Edited on 1/5/04 by thekafer]
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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