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Author: Subject: TR Tube Angles
Chris_R

posted on 12/6/04 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
TR Tube Angles

All of the tubes used in my chassis have been maked, roughly cut with a hacksaw, ground with an angle grinder and then filed to a neat finish. It's taking ages, but that's not the problem.

The round tubes, TR3, TR4, TR5 and TR6 are proving tricky. Until now I've been using a combination square to scribe the angles, but obviously that's no good for marking the round sections. I'd considered making a jig, but that involves buying materials. Has anyone got any better, cheaper alternatives?

Cheers,

Chris.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

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James

posted on 12/6/04 at 09:58 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chris_R
Has anyone got any better, cheaper alternatives?



Use 25mm box.

As recommended by Cymtrics.

HTH,

James

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marc n

posted on 12/6/04 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
we use cardboard wrapped round a telescopic tube, then cut the cardboard ( fishmouth ) till it fits, then transfer this to the tube to weld in.

hope this helps

regards

marc

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Chris_R

posted on 12/6/04 at 10:21 PM Reply With Quote
It's not really a fish mouth as the round tubes are welded to flat surfaces, but it's worth noting for Ron's buggy. I intend to build one for my son (when he's old enough).

On reflection i should have prolly used box section, but i've already got the 19MM tube. I'd planned to do the luggage compartment at the same time.

[Edited on 12/6/04 by Chris_R]

[Edited on 12/6/04 by Chris_R]





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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Peteff

posted on 12/6/04 at 11:45 PM Reply With Quote
Cut it as close as you can and bodge it with a fat weld .





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Chris_R

posted on 13/6/04 at 12:10 AM Reply With Quote
If i start to run out of tube I might have to. I like the ali cover on your steering column. Do you have any close-ups?





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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scutter

posted on 13/6/04 at 09:01 AM Reply With Quote
Chris try THIS. You need to down load the file. It's from the Aus locost builders site.

All the best Dan.

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Chris_R

posted on 13/6/04 at 09:03 AM Reply With Quote
that's a clever bit ok kit.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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Peteff

posted on 13/6/04 at 09:38 AM Reply With Quote
The cover was an offcut from the bonnet bent round as an afterthought to cover the wires behind the column. I've moved the column since then and it's different now. The new bit is painted black (deluxe model) to match the dash. Close enough anyway . If you cut the tube a little bit long and leave the ends at the angle to fit to the FU and the upright, then file or grind a bit off the inside of the angle they tap in tight. Do all the others in square tube, 1" or 3/4" it's easier

[Edited on 13/6/04 by Peteff]





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Chris_R

posted on 13/6/04 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys. Managed to find some scrap in my dads garage so went for the jig. Angles were perfect, but sadly slightly off-set around the circumfrence, so added a fat weld too.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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craig1410

posted on 13/6/04 at 07:09 PM Reply With Quote
I used 25mm box myself as the consensus was that 19mm round wasn't strong enough, especially as in my case I am using a slightly heavier engine.

Anyway, you seem to have it sorted now.
Cheers,
Craig.

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Chris_R

posted on 13/6/04 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
if i hadn't already got the steel i would have. Seems strange that it's round in the book anyway. Still, when i learn to TIG weld an start to build the next ali one, i'll do it with box section.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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craig1410

posted on 13/6/04 at 09:53 PM Reply With Quote
Chris,
Sorry to stick my nose in and as I have no idea of your level of knowledge on this subject I hope I am not patronising here but...

I recall a thread about using aluminium for chassis building and the lasting impression I had was that it was not an easy task and generally not worth the hassle. By not listing the specifics I risk being accused of scaremongering but in fact I just want to make you aware so that you can satisfy yourself that it is viable.

I have no doubts that it can be done but I don't think it was as simple as just using aluminium tubing instead of steel. I think there may have been concerns over work hardening and premature fatigue fracturing but I'm guessing now.

Anyway, good luck with the rest of your build!
Cheers,
Craig.

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Mark Allanson

posted on 13/6/04 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
An ally chassis would be fine as long as you can remove all flexing. That means using all of cymtriks recommendations and a few more besides. The resulting chassis would probably be heavier than the steel equivalent, more expensive and would take an age to make





If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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craig1410

posted on 13/6/04 at 11:05 PM Reply With Quote
Mark,
So I was right that it had something to do with fatigue albeit not due to work hardening? On second thoughts the work hardening issue might have been to do with Cromoly or Stainless chassis'.

Aren't there particular alloys of aluminium which are more suitable or is aluminium fundamentally problematic for this application?

Cheers,
Craig.

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Chris_R

posted on 14/6/04 at 10:51 PM Reply With Quote
just seemed the next logical step to move to ali. Already thinking about the next and the first is barely underway.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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