sooty
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| posted on 14/5/12 at 07:39 PM |
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Space Frame Chassis material ??
I'm looking around for a new project fun car.
This would be a Space Frame tubular chassis with a skin shell of a classic to do Hill climb/Track day, ie: Mini, Imp, Minor etc.
The floor pan frame would be rectangular ERW tube. The main frame inside the shell with braces being approx. 25mm or 40mm dia, which attached would be
the front and rear suspension and front or rear engine/transmission.
My question: Which round tube should I use. Some use ERW, Seamless and T45
T45 I understand needs preparation before and after welding.
Seamless being easy to weld and strong with no seam joint, but would this be an overkill.
ERW being easy to weld and cheapest, but is it strong enough with its seam joint.
Your views please.
Thanks
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T66
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| posted on 14/5/12 at 08:09 PM |
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My 126 chassis is mostly 38mm cds. When I blat it sideways into something hard the overkill will help. We discussed T45 prior to starting pouring
money into the hole, and sidelined it based on my poorness.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 14/5/12 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by T66
My 126 chassis is mostly 38mm cds. When I blat it sideways into something hard the overkill will help. We discussed T45 prior to starting pouring
money into the hole, and sidelined it based on my poorness.
Ivan, that looks some piece of work. Ive got to see that when its done mate.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Talon Motorsport
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| posted on 14/5/12 at 08:41 PM |
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Where did the gearbox and final drive come from? It could be the answer to a project I have in mind.
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T66
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| posted on 14/5/12 at 09:10 PM |
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The car is up north, if your passing your welcome a look and a brew...
The final drive is an idea Nat from Retropower came up with - NS-Dev. Borg Warner Range Rover xfer box, cannot recall the final drive gearing when
locked in low range, but optimum for our purpose.
Its redundant now as Ive replaced it with a Quaife powertec. The intention was to drive it with the splined input shaft Nat sourced in Coventry, it
ended up welded to a Blackbird sprocket drive cup.
If theres anything I can help with ask, however if its complicated and techy, then a quick call to Nat will ensure a sensible answer...
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Talon Motorsport
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 06:55 AM |
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Now that is very clever indeed.
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sooty
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 05:42 PM |
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thanks for the pics of your frame.
Started to do a spread sheet to workout approx. costs.
What was the wall thickness you used, I thought of either 1.6mm or 2.00mm 38mm OD CDS for the main outer frame without making it too heavy.
Thanks
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T66
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 07:14 PM |
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Just had a quick look for an open tube, and I havent got one, Ive even gone back through my early emails to Nat/Cal but I cannot find the wall
thickness for you.
Ivan
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 08:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by T66
Where did you get the wheels from? im looking for a set like that at a sensible price.
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ashg
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 09:19 PM |
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i believe the wheels are from caterham, meaning they are not a sensible price 
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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T66
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| posted on 15/5/12 at 09:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ashg
i believe the wheels are from caterham, meaning they are not a sensible price
Not from caterham, a group buy via Locost Direct from compomotive.
£402 - which I think is quite reasonable.
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