smart51
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 11:58 AM |
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Custom handbrake cable soldering problem
I've made my own handbrake cable using control cable and solder nipples. Despite wetting the steel cable well, it still pulls out of the solder
nipple if you pull the lever quite hard. Am I doing something wrong or is this type of cable not suitable for high load applications like
handbrakes?
My application is a 3 wheeler with a dedicated handbrake calliper on the single rear wheel. I just want a simple pull cable that is (from memory)
about 1.5m long. Any suggestions?
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RichardK
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 12:24 PM |
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What about a blob of weld instead?
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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jamesbond007ltk
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 12:30 PM |
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I went down the nipple route and failed miserably despite numerous attempts. Also tried welding but found it weakened the cable locally so ended up
breaking.
In the end I put three small nuts over the cable and squashed them in an engineering vice. Not pretty but many years later it still holds tight.
I'm sure there are purpose made crimps that have the same effect.
Rich
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Andi
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 12:38 PM |
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I used silver solder from maplins (on an accy cable though) which lasted years.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 12:40 PM |
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Mine soldered okay, took a couple of attempts just splaying the end pulled through but adding a little steel wedge and bunching the wires in the wide
bit of the nipple worked 
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owelly
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 12:41 PM |
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I used flux paste and soft solder on one of my cables and flux powder and silver solder on the other because I couldn't find the soft solder!
Both lasted until I changed the rear brakes which woyld be about 5 years and countless handbrake turns!
You need to ensure the cable is spotless before you try to solder.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 02:02 PM |
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You need Silver solder
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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snakebelly
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 03:32 PM |
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Also depends on whether the cable is coated with anything, i would use silver solder as its stronger than lead
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 06:52 PM |
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Wetting the cable? that's a new one on me. What are you using to "wet" the cable ?
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smart51
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 07:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Wetting the cable? that's a new one on me. What are you using to "wet" the cable ?
It's a soldering term from electronics. It means making sure there is a good coating of solder on the surface before trying to join things.
I've found with braded steel wire, you have to get it stinking hot before the solder will 'stick'. Much hotter than the melting
temperature of the solder itself. The failure is not the steel wire pulling through the solder but the solder shearing.
Thanks all for tips, especially silver solder. I forgot and used tin/lead. Oops!
Edit: damn autocorrect 
[Edited on 6-9-2012 by smart51]
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Chippy
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| posted on 6/9/12 at 10:50 PM |
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If you countersink the back of the nipple, push the cable through and then splay out the ends into the countersink prior to soldering it should hold.
Done many cables in this way and never had a failure. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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paulf
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| posted on 7/9/12 at 09:01 PM |
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I have done them the same way but use a quick blob of MIG weld , if you adjust the welder to a setting that is just enough to melt the strands
together it makes a strong blob on the end of the cable and does not affect the cable with so much excess heat as silver soldering.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
If you countersink the back of the nipple, push the cable through and then splay out the ends into the countersink prior to soldering it should hold.
Done many cables in this way and never had a failure. HTH Ray
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 7/9/12 at 09:35 PM |
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I'm probably tempting fate here, but mine has a nipple fitted with a grub screw. Been good as gold for a few years now. No sign of solder...
Maybe I've just been lucky 
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