Shorty
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| posted on 17/5/13 at 10:54 AM |
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zetec engine mounts
Following on from the great help yesterday mating my engine to gearbox I now have another question regarding zetec engine and type 9 gearbox
mounting.
How do you make the engine mounts. I have the idea of getting engine into place, fitting plates then cutting a piece of box section to size.
What I don't know is how to get the perfect position and ensure it is perfectly square and correct height.
Noticed a company on ebay selling mounts for around 45 pound which might be worth a try as I don't have any 5mm plate or box
Oh and I have landrover v8 mounts
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loggyboy
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| posted on 17/5/13 at 11:15 AM |
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There is no real need to be perfectly square and level, certainly left to right.
Front-back postion is fairly straight foward as the tunnel and gearbox mount should largely determine how that sits. Then (and this is how I did it,
its by no means the only way) mate the engine and gearbox and jack them into a rough position then check to see if its pretty much level front to
back, and at a height that sits as high as you can but low enought to get under the bonnet. Then do a left-right and rotational movement to get it to
suit yout preference, this can be dicated by the type of chassis and engine, exhaust or intake requirements (ie more space on exhaust side for turbo,
or more space in intake side for using standard injection/plenum etc etc) and if you want to try and offset the weight of the driver by shifting the
engine over to one side.
As for the mounts themselves, do a search on here as its been discussed a few times on here and there is a few styles out there that work well and a
some that dont!
Mistral Motorsport
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tims31
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| posted on 17/5/13 at 11:15 AM |
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Hi Shorty,
I stand to be corrected but I don't believe that it has to be perfectly square (in-line at least) I know mine certainly isn't otherwise
the handbrake mount would be too close to the gearbox output/propshaft mount. Any misalignment in the gearbox to diff is countered by the cv joints on
the propshaft I believe. Have also heard that it is better to have the cv joints on the propshaft slightly out as this keeps the joint movements
worked rather than stuck in one position.
HTH and will accept if I am incorrect
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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whitestu
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| posted on 17/5/13 at 11:16 AM |
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I had some Pinto mounts that I chopped and re-welded. I just made sure the engine was roughly level and checked the exhaust lined up OK.
Stu
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Shorty
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| posted on 17/5/13 at 11:36 AM |
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Ah rite, I'm new to rwd so just assumed it had to be dead central and square.
That doesn't sound too bad then.
Don't have bodywork yet,
Does anyone with a haynes know how much space I will have from say, top of chassis to highest point of engine to clear bonnet?
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