burst10
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 09:35 AM |
|
|
+4 chassis
Hi all, I am a complete beginer, bought the book and is very keen to start. BUT, (I know that there are lost of posts on having a big frame) I want to
have more space in the car.
I have read people talking about a +4 chasis, what is it, andf are there plans for it around.
Thanks,
Travis
|
|
|
locoboy
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 09:44 AM |
|
|
Hi there and welcome to the forum,
There are plans done by a chap called Jim Mcscorely, do a search on here for him and you will find a link to his website, the plans are downloadable
from there for free.
ATB
Locoboy
|
|
Chris Green
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 10:02 AM |
|
|
Hello,
As Col said, McSorley plans are available on the website here!
Regards,
Chris.
|
|
chrisg
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 01:02 PM |
|
|
Mines +4 - have a look onthe website below.
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
James
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 01:56 PM |
|
|
Travis,
Think very carefully before going down this route.
I've changed my chassis and it made the whole thing take a lot longer. Okay, so mine was more complex than just 4" down the middle but
you'll still have problems getting bodywork to fit.
Have a go in a couple of Locosts before changing the plans to make sure they really are to small.
The more you deviate from the original plans the longer the whole project will take you.
Hope the helps,
James
|
|
burst10
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 02:31 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the replies.
I will try the out a few if I can and make my choice. I am wanting more space but if it will make the task longer it might not be such a good idea.
But having said that it may all depend on the type of donor car I get my hands on. I am in South Africa so second hand scrapped cars are not cheap
like in the UK.
For an escort in semi running order would be around R3500 - R4500 , around 300 pounds, so I wil have be a little inventive to keep costs down.
Thanks again
Travis
|
|
James
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 03:13 PM |
|
|
You know, in my previous post I was thinking I ought to tell you to update your profile so we knew where you were. Then you could come to a meet and
try some out!
Guess it's only a few thousand miles!
Look for user : Mangogrooveworkshop. He used to (or does, or something) live in SA so he may be able to advise you.
On the donor front- they sold the Cortina in SA didn't they? That would be your ideal donor if you can find one and the running gear is the same
as UK ones.
Hope that helps,
James
P.S. From everything we hear about SA, is it really safe to drive around in a car that doesn't have bullet proof glass and fully encompassing
bodywork?
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 03:39 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by James
On the donor front- they sold the Cortina in SA didn't they? That would be your ideal donor if you can find one and the running gear is the same
as UK ones.
Isn't the rear axle is a bit wide for a standard chassis? Would probably be a good choice for a wide chassis though.
|
|
cassidym
|
posted on 28/10/04 at 08:48 PM |
|
|
Travis, have you registered yourself at www.locost.co.za yet?
There is quite a few guys who have already built there own Locosts who may give you very specific info re local parts to use.
Brad our founding father also sells Locost chassis' & other stuff.
I'm also only starting out - planning to go +442 and am bracing myself for problems cropping up with bodywork.
|
|
burst10
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 09:48 AM |
|
|
Howdy
I'm not so worried about the bullet proof, hope fully the car will be faster than the speeding bullet . I live in a smallish town so it is
relatively safe.
I am more worried about the heat. I'm sure that this would be sacrelige , but has anyone done a car with aircon and a roof ?
from your opinions, is it worth building from scratch or buying a kit. I am hoping to do this cheaply, but i might be kidding myself on how much I
could save. No ppoint in being penny wise and pound foolish.
Travis
|
|
craig1410
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 11:49 AM |
|
|
Travis,
I'd encourage you to go for a +4" chassis as I firmly believe that this could well become the "standard" over the next few
years. James is correct that it will take you longer but going +4" will not prolong your project nearly as much as, for example, changing from
live axle/de-dion to IRS suspension. I am building a +4" car and to be honest the bodywork is the only real issue I have found. My solution to
this is to simply cut a standard set of bodywork down the middle and add in 4 inches of fibreglass. Not difficult really. Also, there are a few
companies who are at the very least "considering" making +4" moulds and I think there is at least one company actually producing
them. GTS Tuning were trying to get just 6 firm orders for +4" bodywork in order to justify the startup costs.
The advantages are that you can have a much better choice of seats, have more room for your pedals and be able to accommodate larger engines such as
the Rover V8 I am using.
Good luck and welcome to LocostBuilders!
Craig.
|
|
burst10
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 12:03 PM |
|
|
Hi craig
I am not too worried about the body work. I will be making it myself so making it to fit won't be too much more difficult.
The kits we have here are pretty pricey, and I want to learn as much as i can about the process, got some crazy ideas I want to playwith.
Travis
|
|
blueshift
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 01:52 PM |
|
|
Oh yeah, and the escort steering rack is actually the right size for a +4 chassis, so you shouldn't get bump steer (not nearly as badly as the
book chassis guys)
|
|
Volvorsport
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 04:58 PM |
|
|
So , if i was to buy a book chassis , and then decide my volvo running gear wont fit because its too narrow , where would i want to cut out and add 4
inch extra .
this is just hypotheteically speaking , since my 4cyl engine leans over quite a bit , and the turbo may hit the chassis rails . sorry for the thread
hijack
|
|
craig1410
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 07:11 PM |
|
|
Hi,
I'm not sure that I'd recommend adding 4 inches to an existing chassis. I built mine 4 inches wider from scratch using the Mcsorley
7+4" plans on the http://mcsorley.net website. I'm sure that it is possible to modify an existing chassis but it would probably be so much
work to do it correctly that you'd be better starting from scratch.
Essentially the McSorley plans add 4 inches to all the lateral tubes and then correct the diagonal tubes to match. All of the purely vertical and
purely longitudinal tubes are the same as far as I know. If you follow the Mcsorley plans then you don't need to worry as they are well designed
and accurate.
Hope this helps,
Craig.
|
|
type 907
|
posted on 29/10/04 at 07:13 PM |
|
|
Hi All
I'v made a +4 chassis for several reasons.
My engine lays over at 45 deg and the extra room in the engine bay is needed.
I wanted the engine / gearbox back as far as possible for better weight distrubution.
I like plenty of elbow room when driving.
Using Sierra dif & drive shafts. (IRS)
So..... 4" right down the middle (wide tranny tunnel)
I admit this does create probs with bodywork, but since I'm making it, I can make it to fit.
Paul G
Too much is just enough
|
|