verbel
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 04:55 AM |
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after few years build started
Hi guys
After few years of waiting I finally started the build this weekend. I am building locost book chassis with mcsorey corrections. I was strugglin
eather to build book chassis or haynes roadater but i read that book chassis is ok for 6'3" guys 34" in waist.
Planning to use zetec 2.0 matched with t9 gearbox to volvo 240 rear axle. Big inspiration of finall look is hahlin7.se with strenght of FMS
chassis(one one has plans)?
Best regards from poland
Bart
[Edited on 12/5/14 by verbel]
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 08:17 AM |
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Locost Book Chassis
Hello Bart,
Welcome to this madhouse sort of club. I built a book-version Locost, with live axle rear suspension. So I can offer some pointers for you.
1: If you stay with the live axle, as per book, I recommend that you move the rear shock absorber mounts slightly inboard. Having them right
underneath that plate, where the roll-over bar is attached, can make it very awkward when you want to change the rear springs (and you definitely
will!!).
2: You have a choice, at this early stage. I would recommend you find a suitable independent rear end, e.g. as per Ford Sierra, or MX 5. Makes for a
better ride, and will be easier to control at speed.
Good luck with your build. Please keep us updated.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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verbel
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 08:35 AM |
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Thanks for reply
The live axle is due to cost cuts, the only concern i have is if i will fit the book chasis or need to go for haynes roadster. As more narrower look
of book chassis suits me more i hope i will fit with some narrow shoes  . I made first sitting with one bar showing trans tunel and should be ok in
width.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 10:40 AM |
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Now I understand your reason for choosing the live axle option.
Looking at your chassis photo, and re-reading your first post, which version of the McSorley variation will you be using?
a) Extra width, or b) Extra length?
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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verbel
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 10:55 AM |
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Book chassis but corrected by mcSorley, i know there where some errors in book regarding lenghts and angles. The option is if i will ot fit i will
make chassis longer in driver area by changing lenght of A1 and A2 bars. But that will be when chassis will be more advanced, hope o will need no
changes at all
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Gear Monkey
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 12:48 PM |
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Good luck mate, I'm at the chassis build stage (it's only a legit locost if you build it from scratch  ) so will look forward to your
updates.
Paul
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 05:24 PM |
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Hi
If I built again I would mount the rear shocks angled in at the top, to give more travel per shock/spring length, you will see that idea on Jon
Ison's original.
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verbel
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| posted on 12/5/14 at 08:46 PM |
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I was thinking maybe to make inborad bike shocks at the front and at the rear use normal car adjustable shocks, i think rear mounting plates can be
adopted to cope with shock bearings and front bike ones are small enought to be hiden in nose cone. Are there any plans for onboard suspension for
locost?
[Edited on 13/5/14 by verbel]
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verbel
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 04:08 PM |
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Also does any one has fms chassis plans? As i plan to add some aussie mods and their chassis is quite nice looking
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verbel
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 07:53 PM |
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One more thing guys, for cut accuracy. Is it ok to have 1-1.5mm gap between members on chassis (B1 and b2 for instance and bottom rail to front end).
From my studies i remember it is ok to have up to 2mm gap but may be wrong?
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verbel
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 07:33 PM |
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Small progress, but managed to make front assembly in one shoot
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