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Author: Subject: Side triangulation bars
Avoneer

posted on 1/12/04 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
Side triangulation bars

Havin soon to acquire a book chassis.
Is there any reasons why I should and shouldn't cut out all the side triangulation bars and replace them with round?
Cheers,
Pat...





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MikeR

posted on 1/12/04 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
yep its a pain in the bum plus in certain situations square is better than round. Do a search as i've definately read all about it on here.

plus i've got to ask ......... why?

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Avoneer

posted on 1/12/04 at 11:57 PM Reply With Quote
Weight???
Shall I leave the square ones in then?
Is it worth it?
Pat...





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MikeR

posted on 2/12/04 at 12:16 AM Reply With Quote
I'm no expert but having built my own chassis, i'd reconmend going on a diet.

Its better for you, easier, less hassle, cheeper and for the amount of weight i guess we're talking...... a damned sight more effective!

At most we're talking what, 4 tubes total length less than 2m? the weight difference has to be negligable.... are you using carbon fibre for everything else?

Sorry i'm coming over really negative but based on pure guess work and not being a trained engineer it just seems like you're making a lot of work for yourself with little gain.

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Fred W B

posted on 2/12/04 at 06:11 AM Reply With Quote
Tube masses in kg/m (lb/ft)

Square 15.9x15.9x1.6 = 0.73 (0.49)
Square 19.1x19.1x1.6 = 0.89 (0.60)
Square 25.4x25.4x1.6 = 1.21 (0.81)

Round 15.9x1.6 = 0.56 (0.38)
Round 19.1x1.6 = 0.73 (0.49)
Round 25.4x1.6 = 0.94 (0.63)
Round 31.8x1.6 = 1.19 (0.78)

If a 25x25x1.6 square tube space frame weighs 70 kg, and you could change every tube to 25x1.6 round tube, you would save 15.6 kg (34 lb)

Regards

Fred W B

[Edited on 2/12/04 by Fred W B]

[Edited on 2/12/04 by Fred W B]

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MikeRJ

posted on 2/12/04 at 10:02 AM Reply With Quote
Hmm, I just chopped all the tubular diagonlas out of the sides and welded square in! I didn't really like the look of the 16mm tube the previous owner had used, especialy on the longer runs.
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MikeR

posted on 2/12/04 at 10:27 AM Reply With Quote
but we're only talking about the side triangulation bars, i guess 2m worth of steel so that saves .... 400g approx....

as i said before, a diet would be more effective

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Avoneer

posted on 2/12/04 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
I work it out at just under 4 metres and then was planning on doing the whole transmission tunnel in round as well
Fair enough on the minimal weight saving, but this will enable strengthening in other areas.
And if I diet as well (although I'm not that heavy) - everyone's laughing!
I can see why it sounds like a waste of time, but I fancy the challenge!
Thanks for the input...
Pat...





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James

posted on 2/12/04 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
If you follow Cymtrics' modifications you can make the chassis both stiffer and lighter apparently.
One thing his plans *do* do is uprate the front diagonals (JU1/2???) from round to 1" box because the chassis needs the extra strength.

A complete chassis weighs only 90Kgs or so IIRC. You'd be better off making weight savings with Willwood callipers, ali uprights, ali (Protech) shocks etc. etc. IMHO.

Cheers,
James

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Bob C

posted on 2/12/04 at 01:01 PM Reply With Quote
lighter uprights & calipers reduce the all important unsprung weight for vastly more benefit than the raw poundage would suggest!
Bob c

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MikeR

posted on 2/12/04 at 01:03 PM Reply With Quote
Ah, hold on james whilst i throughly agree with you, he said the most important words on this site ....

I fancy the challenge....... well if thats the case, go for it

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britishtrident

posted on 2/12/04 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
Just add that the welding and fitting of the diagonals has to be perfect -- get it wrong especially on fully built chassis and it would be all too easy end up with a twist in the chassis when it cools.
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britishtrident

posted on 2/12/04 at 03:47 PM Reply With Quote
Just add that the welding and fitting of the diagonals has to be perfect -- get it wrong especially on fully built chassis and it would be all too easy end up with a twist in the chassis when it cools.
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MikeR

posted on 2/12/04 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
i had to move one of mine so ........

i supported the chassis, welded in a temporary diagonal, removed the normal one, fitted the new one, removed the temp.

(by temp i mean welded in another peice of steel!)

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Avoneer

posted on 2/12/04 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
Just got some pics of the chassis I am buying in a couple of weeks and low and behold, tubular diagonals - so I guess that's the end of the post!
As for willwoods and ali hubs etc, I think that would kill my £3k on the road BEC locost budget!
Cheers,
Pat...





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MikeR

posted on 3/12/04 at 12:43 AM Reply With Quote
yeah probably, so put it in your post on the road upgrade budget
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