Phil_1471
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 08:22 PM |
|
|
Dunlop tracking guages - rear toe
Evening!
Can anybody detail how to set rear toe using the dunlop opticals?
I know there is a way to do it, but can't remember how...
Thanks
Phil
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 08:39 PM |
|
|
Because the gauge is back to front the readings are reversed toe out on the scale is actually toe-in
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 08:47 PM |
|
|
Sorry, not in that way. It's not like doing the front and you need a parallel reference line. I seem to remember putting a guage at 90 degrees
to the front.... ??
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 09:09 PM |
|
|
Not sure you can use them in the way you describe? They can be used for aligning commercial vehicle axles rather than tracking.Rear wheel alignment
can be done easily using a couple of long straight edges and a tape measure the SE needs to be long enough to reach the front of the front rim and
the rear of the rear rim when placed alongside each side of the car . I have used a Supertracker for four wheel alignment with good results ,
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 09:28 PM |
|
|
Agreed with SE theory, I have a 'tracking bar' too. My concern is that the SE method relies on taking a reference from front wheels.
The only way I can think to do it, is find parallel by using a combo of tracking bar, and measueing track control links, then use the optical guages
and turn the TCL's equal turns...
However, without knowing the centre line, I could end up with guages reading correct but the rear end crabbing etc
I don't want to end up like below, (ignore the info just want an exaggerated picture)
[Edited on 23/3/16 by Phil_1471]
[Edited on 23/3/16 by Phil_1471]
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 09:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Phil_1471
Sorry, not in that way. It's not like doing the front and you need a parallel reference line. I seem to remember putting a guage at 90 degrees
to the front.... ??
The Dunlop gauge can check the toe of each wheel relative to another axle on the same side but you need the special right angle brackets. It was
intended for setting up the steering axles on 8 wheel rigid trucks like old Leyland Octapus. I have done it but don't recommend it
[Edited on 23/3/16 by britishtrident]
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 09:58 PM |
|
|
Yes, just found the instructions.... How would you suggest then? I refuse to have it 'laser aligned' when I'm sure I have all the
gear to do it myself and I want to play around with it a bit.
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 10:07 PM |
|
|
Fishing line, axle stands to tie it to and a micrometer to measure from the wheel rim, with care you will get within minutes of accuracy against the
centre line if the car.
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 10:10 PM |
|
|
Do you have a diagram? How did you get the geo centre line?
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 10:31 PM |
|
|
To work out the centre line measure across the car front and rear, put a dot on the front and rear panels and drop a plumb line down.
pull a length of fishing line underneath it then line up with this, sides are then parallel to this, if the rear track is wider than the front get as
close to the wheel rim as you can with the string, vice versa for wide front track.
Another way is with a lazer, line up the car 10' from a garage door, chalk three lines, centre and the wheel base then line up against this, the
further away from the wall the more accurate, centre line put the lazer in the middle on the back and arrange a pointer like a gun sight on the nose
cone.
Use a smart phone as a level for camber and caster, I use my iPad (bubble level app) when I had my car checked on a hunter lazer it was spot on after
this.
For camber and caster you need a very flat horizontal floor, in my case the floor drops 1/2" across the car so needed to use thin plywood
squares as pads to get everything level.
[Edited on 24/3/16 by mark chandler]
|
|
|
motorcycle_mayhem
|
| posted on 23/3/16 at 10:33 PM |
|
|
When the chassis is bare, quite simply, when not bare perhaps more tricky...
I cross 'X' string across the suspension brackets to ascertain the centre of the chassis. Permanent small (1mm) drilled holes on
convenient chassis rails are then a permanent reference.
Axle stands, string, patience, anal attention to detail and an Aldi vernier are all you require. Beer only in moderation.
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 24/3/16 at 07:16 AM |
|
|
I struggled with getting a centreline.
However, I bought some thin brightly coloured cord off eBay, jewellery stuff I think and a couple of quid for loads
I used 4bricks instead of axle stands and a vernier.
Set up front wheels first to parallel using two strings. Then adjusted the parallel strings until happy the rest wheels were central to the strings.
Adjusted rear wheels, then rechecked and tweaked the strings. OK, a bit of faff but not hard..
Camber and caster I found a pic of gauge that used setting and Bob weight, but rather than pay £50 printed the pic, stuck it on hardboard and job
done.
I reckon as good as hunter setup, and takes similar time or less if you have to travel or wait. Plus tea and biscuits on tap...
Other advantage is you start to get understand more about the car doing it yourself. Which is largely what "we" are about.
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 24/3/16 at 05:04 PM |
|
|
Thanks for all replies.
I do have caster/camber guages already. Booked in to have its lasered today, got there couldn't get it on the ramp. Arghhh!
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
Camber Dave
|
| posted on 25/3/16 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
I agree the String box method is always the best
Rear axle alignment with Dunlop gauges.
Set front and rear toe to parallel. Hold, tie or clamp steering wheel straight ahead
Fit the 90Deg adaptor to the Mirror part of the gauge pair.
Place mirror gauge to front wheel with the mirror facing forward
Place sighting scale anywhere in front of the car, set scale to zero and move gauge to show parallel alignment.
Move the mirror gauge to rear axle and return to viewer.
Without moving gauge, move scale/ viewer to get target and sight line aligned
As both axles are zero toe scale will read rear axle displacement relative to the front.
Realign R Axle
Reset front toe
And yes, I also remember the Leyland Octopus and the Scammell Routeman
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 25/3/16 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
I was under the impression this would only work of the track was the same? And also, how do I then check/setup the toe angle?
Cheers
Phil
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
Camber Dave
|
| posted on 25/3/16 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
Hi Phil
As long as the track widths are the same plus or minus the width of the mirror, it will work.
Step one. Set rear toe to zero (parallel)
If when you find a displacement (say 20 - ignore the linear display!) the rear axle will be 20 out one side and 20 in the other (but parallel).
Adjust one side IN 20 (1 turn of the rod end ?) and the other OUT 1 turn and recheck.
You can also re-position the mirror bracket to double check on the other side of the car
It is a long winded procedure but you did ask
..
|
|
|
Phil_1471
|
| posted on 27/3/16 at 06:35 PM |
|
|
Thank for replies, I'm going to have a play. Then find a place where my car fits on the ramps and see how close I am.
Phil
You can live in a car but can't rally a house
|
|
|
.jpg)
