GeoffT
|
| posted on 13/1/05 at 07:24 PM |
|
|
Identifying k-series engines.
Sometime over the weekend I'll be picking up a 1.8 k-series engine I've recently purchased. Whilst I'm sure the vendor is a
perfectly honest type, I'd still like to be able to check I am getting the engine I've paid for.
Trouble is, I can't seem to find any info relating to this at all. Ideally I'd like to confirm that it is indeed a 1.8, plus any
other info the engine number may contain. Anybody know or can point me to any relevant website?
Many thanks,
Geoff.
|
|
|
|
|
stressy
|
| posted on 13/1/05 at 08:51 PM |
|
|
Hi mate,
At a guess it should be a k18.....number on the block, the 1.6 is defined as a k16 in that way. (as is the 1.4 i htink)
might be helpful??
WHO DARES SPINS
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 13/1/05 at 08:52 PM |
|
|
Exhaust side of the block down the bottom it should have the engine serial number and it should begin either K18 or 18K.
Enjoy. 9 Days to go.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 14/1/05 at 08:35 AM |
|
|
Serial number and ancilaries only
From about 95 on actual castings are identical --- you can actually convert a 1.1 block to a 1.8 simply by changing piston liners crank and rods
If you are using Rover MEMS injection and ignition you MUST get the original ecu with the engine. The anti theft system in the ECU is coded to the
flywheel reluctor ring. Quite a few people have done engine swaps on Rovers only to find the engine starts perfectly once then won't run
normally again.
|
|
|
GeoffT
|
| posted on 14/1/05 at 03:12 PM |
|
|
Thanks guys, also for the ECU warning. I'm intending to take the Megasuirt route for sparks and fuel, so hopefully I can sidestep the traps you
mention. No doubt there'll be plenty of others I can leap into...
|
|
|
