Steve Hignett
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| posted on 28/3/26 at 05:29 PM |
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Help wanted (x2) - Chassis build advice & Photo upload advice!
Hi ALL,
I'd like to get the combined effort/advice from the forum about the Locost chassis I am building, as I'm getting closer to being finished
with the main part of it (just 4 or 5 tubes left). But, I'm worried that I'm forgetting some super important bracket, or tube, or
whatsa-mi-callit, or thingy-ma-bob etc. etc.
Basically, I have built a few cars in my time, but nothing for Quite a few years, but this will be the last (performance) car that I will ever build,
so I'd Really like it to be a good one...
So, I'd appreciate a multitude of eyes looking over it, as it's always better to get a Group opinion...
However, I don't know how to post photos on here from my Google Photo Archive.
And, I'm definitely not downloading them one at a time, as there's hundreds! 
If anyone could help me solve the photo upload issue, I'd dearly love to get advice on the chassis............
Thanks in advance,
Steve
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Slimy38
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| posted on 28/3/26 at 08:07 PM |
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You can normally set up a Google folder for ready only access, that would probably be the easiest. But I think you'd get better feedback on a
curated set of photos.
I've never been able to upload photos to here, even photo links seem challenging lately.
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nick205
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| posted on 30/3/26 at 11:53 AM |
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If you upload photos to your Locostbuilders Photo Archive they have to be:
1. Below a certain file size
2. Uniquely named compared to all other images already on Locostbuilders
Most users Photo Archive's seem to have been built up over time, not in a mass upload.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 30/3/26 at 08:52 PM |
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Does this link work?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLsNwDX8xNxwwndG9
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scudderfish
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| posted on 31/3/26 at 08:39 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Does this link work?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLsNwDX8xNxwwndG9
Yes
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Slimy38
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| posted on 31/3/26 at 08:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Does this link work?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLsNwDX8xNxwwndG9
Yes it does, although there's lots of 'work in progress' pictures so it's difficult to see what you want us to look at? I'm
not entirely sure what order they're in?
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jps
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| posted on 31/3/26 at 10:07 AM |
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(Second attempt at replying, first one seemed to just disappear....)
I've been building a 'simple' Haynes Roadster for years now. One thing that holds me up is "trying to get it right first time; to
avoid having to undo/redo stuff". I've tried to 'build the whole car' as I go - thinking about seatbelt mounts at the same time as
pedal box positioning/etc/etc. And fitting the engine/gearbox and diff, expecting they'll now never come out again. So, for example, I fully
painted the chassis years ago, and since have drilled holes endlessly to fit panels; brackets; etc. The car has never run under it's own steam,
but I have the bodywork loosely fitted (as the best place to store it) and have had for years.
In hindsight, if i'd worked purely towards a 'fully working car' in the sense of brakes/steering/engine - then gone back to put in seat
/ panelling/ bodywork afterwards things like "have I missed a bracket" would not really be an issue. I'd be expecting to get the car
fully 'working' - then strip down to completely bare chassis, paint it, and do a final 'build' as though it really were 'a
kit'....
Maybe approaching it this way will help avoid your problem?
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 4/4/26 at 10:57 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Does this link work?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PLsNwDX8xNxwwndG9
Yes it does, although there's lots of 'work in progress' pictures so it's difficult to see what you want us to look at? I'm
not entirely sure what order they're in?
It looks like a work in progress, because it is. Sorry.
It's in reverse chronological order. If you go to the "start" / "end" of the album, the build starts with two tubes, then
four more, and so on until now...
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 4/4/26 at 11:07 AM |
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Yeah, I think that's a good point.
I have built a few things in my time, so I feel like I can keep an eye on the seats/harness mounts AND engine/pedals at the same time (just to use
your examples) - But yeah, I think you're right - thanks for replying! (Twice )
I'm definitely going to do what you state at the end and that is - have a chassis, and pile of parts as if I'd bought a kit, and do a
"final" build.
I just want to have to avoid doing 2 or 3 "final" builds, is why I think I wanted people's input on where I was up to.
But, (judging by the posted reply above your helpful one!) it's my build, so actual details and specific help are down to me on my own, rather
than people spotting stuff in a bunch of photos, I guess.
Thanks again for your input though JPS 
quote:
Originally posted by jps
(Second attempt at replying, first one seemed to just disappear....)
I've been building a 'simple' Haynes Roadster for years now. One thing that holds me up is "trying to get it right first time; to
avoid having to undo/redo stuff". I've tried to 'build the whole car' as I go - thinking about seatbelt mounts at the same time as
pedal box positioning/etc/etc. And fitting the engine/gearbox and diff, expecting they'll now never come out again. So, for example, I fully
painted the chassis years ago, and since have drilled holes endlessly to fit panels; brackets; etc. The car has never run under it's own steam,
but I have the bodywork loosely fitted (as the best place to store it) and have had for years.
In hindsight, if i'd worked purely towards a 'fully working car' in the sense of brakes/steering/engine - then gone back to put in seat
/ panelling/ bodywork afterwards things like "have I missed a bracket" would not really be an issue. I'd be expecting to get the car
fully 'working' - then strip down to completely bare chassis, paint it, and do a final 'build' as though it really were 'a
kit'....
Maybe approaching it this way will help avoid your problem?
[Edited on 4/4/26 by Steve Hignett]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 4/4/26 at 09:46 PM |
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I'm just having a look at your chassis, and can see you've made a fair few changes compared to a 'normal' chassis. Could I ask a
few questions?
1. Why the diagonals in the footwell floor? I'm guessing triangulation but I would have thought they'd actually get quite annoying when
getting in or out of the car. Or are you planning on panelling above the chassis?
2. For the pedal firewall, why didn't you go for a full panel? I can see you've made provision for the brake cylinder, and I'm guessing
gas and clutch are cable operated?
3. Is there anywhere on the car that you feel isn't quite triangulated? On the normal (Haynes/Locost) there are areas that cannot be
triangulated, and you seem to have filled in many section that will benefit from the extra bracing.
4. Do you have some specific seats in mind that warrant the lowered floors? I've only ever really seen lowered floors in cars that have tall
seats, but since you're so early in the process what's your plan for seating? (As I've gone through your photos I can see you're
using fibreglass seats, which again raises the question why are they so low? Do you not have speed bumps where you live? )
5. Would it be worth considering a bit more reinforcement on the roll bar fore and aft supports? Again this is probably tied in with question 3 and
the camera angles give a false view of how the supports are mounted.
6. You have a slot through an upright bar towards the front, I'm guessing it's a steering column route? Given you're early on in the
chassis, wouldn't it be better to reroute the column at this stage rather than introducing a weak point?
7. For the copper lines, I can see you've used 3D prints, but I don't know what material. I also used 3D prints but I reinforced them with
metal. I wasn't sure how filament would hold up over time (not just from heat and moisture but also from vibration).
8. Are you going for IVA? If so the fuel lines as they pass the crossmembers may be queried, are you going to put some extra brackets there (or bend
it out of the way).
9. I thought that brake line ends had to be supported and clipped as they transition from solid to flexi.
10. Just as a last mini question, now I can see you have a passenger seat, isn't the front roll bar support remarkably close to your passengers
head?
There are just my thoughts as a first time builder, it's certainly not within my knowledge to say whether things are wrong or right, just queries
on what I would consider 'not book standard'.
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adithorp
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| posted on 6/4/26 at 12:26 PM |
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I think the idea of a single dummy build is ambitious. Even with a kit, there were bits I had to add after I believed I'd thought of everything.
That's without all the continuous development (ballast addition some might say) since.
Things that dtand out to me...
I'm not keen on the bent/curved wishbone tubes. I know it gives more space for shocks etc. Is there room/plans for a cross brace?
The cutout for the column looks like a weak point. Is there any way to reinforce it or make it a twin tude with the column passing between?
Personal bugbear for vopper brake lines. Kunifer is stronger, less flexible and less subject to work hardening. Its also (a bit) harder to shape and a
fair bit more expensive unfortunately.
On your flexi to caliper connections could you use banjo fittings to get more clearance? Its also avoid your link pipes taking the load. Might need
the caliper face machining?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 6/4/26 at 09:15 PM |
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1. Diagonals are for triangulation, yes.
a. It will have a flat floor, but also there will be a plinth for the driver above the tube you’re referring too, so that the heel can slide
easily across the pedals.
b. The passenger will have a fixed foot brace, but that’s it – they’ll have to cope with the diagonal.
2. Weight, is the reason I didn’t make it all in the 5mm steel.
a. It will have a blanking plate (closing off the footwell to the engine bay) in carbon fibre.
b. Yes, accelerator and clutch are cable operated.
3. The only areas I feel aren’t triangulated, are because I don’t think it would aid or benefit.
a. The core material is 1.5mm x 25mm round, the supporting material is 0.9mm x 25mm round, and then the triangulation/support tubes are 0.9mm x
19mm round.
i. All that said, I dropped the tube thickness, and lessened the amount of 19mm tube in the normal book chassis so that I could
increase the triangulation.
4. I’ve designed / created with lowered floors for two reasons
a. The seats I’ve used are low to the ground, fitment wise, so I wouldn’t be able to triangulate the large portion of the floor as it would run
through your bum..
b. Lowering the CofG weight of the driver/passenger
i. (and in my case, that’s a bloody lot of weight!)
5. I don’t feel that reinforcement to the roll bar rear stays would
i. Produce further chassis stiffness
ii. Provide much in the way of extra protection in the event of a rollover
b. The forward stay is a removable one, and is only there to triangulate the open nature of the cockpit
6. It is slotted for the column.
a. I want the column there, and at that angle
b. I could move the upright outboard somewhat, but it would require a lot of additional support/manufacture.
i. The cup that’s welded in is sleeved above and below, and is also made from 2mm steel. I think that tube is as strong as it was prior
to the notching.
7. The 3D print material you can see is just PLA for now, but I have PA6-CF material that I’ll use for the final part.
a. I think that will be strong enough.
b. If it’s not, and it fails after so many miles or months, I’ll just print some more. It only takes a few minutes, and they are in easy to
access locations.
8. I’ll look at the fuel line routing
a. Although (due to the routing/bends, I didn’t fit them properly yet.
9. I haven’t finalised the brake lines either.
a. I’ve actually sent them back as they had the wrong ends on
b. That mistake is on me, not the manufacturer, and he’s being great in amending them for me.
c. When I get them back, I think I’ll go back to the T-Piece attachment solution, and that should suffice them being “fixed”.
10. The front bar is removable.
a. It’s actually not that close at all, but it will be removed if it can be contacted..
Thanks very much for your observations, criticisms and opinions. They are very welcome. Even if you are a first-time builder.
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I'm just having a look at your chassis, and can see you've made a fair few changes compared to a 'normal' chassis. Could I ask a
few questions?
1. Why the diagonals in the footwell floor? I'm guessing triangulation but I would have thought they'd actually get quite annoying when
getting in or out of the car. Or are you planning on panelling above the chassis?
2. For the pedal firewall, why didn't you go for a full panel? I can see you've made provision for the brake cylinder, and I'm guessing
gas and clutch are cable operated?
3. Is there anywhere on the car that you feel isn't quite triangulated? On the normal (Haynes/Locost) there are areas that cannot be
triangulated, and you seem to have filled in many section that will benefit from the extra bracing.
4. Do you have some specific seats in mind that warrant the lowered floors? I've only ever really seen lowered floors in cars that have tall
seats, but since you're so early in the process what's your plan for seating? (As I've gone through your photos I can see you're
using fibreglass seats, which again raises the question why are they so low? Do you not have speed bumps where you live? )
5. Would it be worth considering a bit more reinforcement on the roll bar fore and aft supports? Again this is probably tied in with question 3 and
the camera angles give a false view of how the supports are mounted.
6. You have a slot through an upright bar towards the front, I'm guessing it's a steering column route? Given you're early on in the
chassis, wouldn't it be better to reroute the column at this stage rather than introducing a weak point?
7. For the copper lines, I can see you've used 3D prints, but I don't know what material. I also used 3D prints but I reinforced them with
metal. I wasn't sure how filament would hold up over time (not just from heat and moisture but also from vibration).
8. Are you going for IVA? If so the fuel lines as they pass the crossmembers may be queried, are you going to put some extra brackets there (or bend
it out of the way).
9. I thought that brake line ends had to be supported and clipped as they transition from solid to flexi.
10. Just as a last mini question, now I can see you have a passenger seat, isn't the front roll bar support remarkably close to your passengers
head?
There are just my thoughts as a first time builder, it's certainly not within my knowledge to say whether things are wrong or right, just queries
on what I would consider 'not book standard'.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 6/4/26 at 09:31 PM |
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I think it’s a bit ambitious / overly optimistic also mate..
However, I would REALLY like to get some paint on the chassis, as it’s killing me seeing the surface rust develop, especially as I know I won’t have
the money for shot blasting & powder coating.
So, I have some etch primer and then some spray paint (Halfords, which I think is half decent paint from a rattle can, to be fair).
And, if the worst should happen, and I need to amend or add brackets etc, then so be it (and I know you’re right!), but I just want to mitigate as
much as possible…
1. The front wishbones will have a cross brace, the same as the rear ones.
a. I wanted to fully weld the brackets in first, and then put the bracing in, in-situ and use the chassis/brackets as their own jig.
i. When tacked they are an identical width/dimension, so hopefully that will remain the case after the fully welding.
2. I’ve answered this above for Slimy, but I’ve internally sleeved it and used slightly thinker material for the cup.
a. However, I could put some reinforcement on the outside, like an old fashioned pushbike frame around the headstock – if you know what that
looks like…
3. I can’t afford kunifer, sorry.
a. This is the last car I’ll ever build from a chassis point of view, but I’m expecting it to be in constant development over the winters etc.
So, along with things like carbon bodywork, upgraded wheels, and eventually engine, then brake lines and so on, can also get some love…
4. Also replied to above – I made a mistake when ordering the flexi brake lines (all my own fault, and the guy is being so good about it!) and I’m
having swivel inner M10 fittings and MX5 equivalent banjo fittings..
Thanks Adi – really appreciate you taking the time!!
If you think of anything else, then please let me know.
I’ll be adding to that photo archive whenever I have anything worthy of taking a couple photos…
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
I think the idea of a single dummy build is ambitious. Even with a kit, there were bits I had to add after I believed I'd thought of everything.
That's without all the continuous development (ballast addition some might say) since.
Things that dtand out to me...
I'm not keen on the bent/curved wishbone tubes. I know it gives more space for shocks etc. Is there room/plans for a cross brace?
The cutout for the column looks like a weak point. Is there any way to reinforce it or make it a twin tude with the column passing between?
Personal bugbear for vopper brake lines. Kunifer is stronger, less flexible and less subject to work hardening. Its also (a bit) harder to shape and a
fair bit more expensive unfortunately.
On your flexi to caliper connections could you use banjo fittings to get more clearance? Its also avoid your link pipes taking the load. Might need
the caliper face machining?
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jps
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| posted on 7/4/26 at 10:39 AM |
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I know where you’re coming from on paint. Why not a coat of red oxide and leave it at that for now?
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 8/4/26 at 07:31 PM |
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Isn't red oxide porous?
quote:
Originally posted by jps
I know where you’re coming from on paint. Why not a coat of red oxide and leave it at that for now?
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Slimy38
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| posted on 9/4/26 at 07:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Isn't red oxide porous?
quote:
Originally posted by jps
I know where you’re coming from on paint. Why not a coat of red oxide and leave it at that for now?
I used red oxide to protect my chassis mid-build and it worked really well. I was getting surface rust where the chassis was near the door, but a
quick coat of it kept it protected until the end of the build. It was only a tin of Screwfix's own brand and it was great to be able to sand it
back, do a spot of welding, let it cool and dab a bit more on.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 11/4/26 at 07:48 PM |
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Maybe yours was epoxy based?
Because according to the wisdom of AI Google search;
"Yes, traditional red oxide primer is porous. While it acts as an excellent anti-corrosive base layer for metal, its porous nature means it will
allow moisture to penetrate over time, eventually leading to rust if left uncoated. It is designed to be a foundation primer rather than a final,
waterproof finish. "
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Isn't red oxide porous?
quote:
Originally posted by jps
I know where you’re coming from on paint. Why not a coat of red oxide and leave it at that for now?
I used red oxide to protect my chassis mid-build and it worked really well. I was getting surface rust where the chassis was near the door, but a
quick coat of it kept it protected until the end of the build. It was only a tin of Screwfix's own brand and it was great to be able to sand it
back, do a spot of welding, let it cool and dab a bit more on.
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