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Author: Subject: book FU1/FU2 ??
kaymar

posted on 7/2/05 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
book FU1/FU2 ??

HI CHAPS, Anyone got the measurements for fu1/fu2 for book chassis ? i cant see them in the book, i can the pics which appear to show the top of these uprights not meeting with the outside edge of the top rail?? any advice greatfully received
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ned

posted on 7/2/05 at 04:46 PM Reply With Quote
this can be a nightmare as the book doesn't give dimensions for them. The easiest way to do it is make a jig using mdf, ply or spare steel tube. Do a search on fu1/2 as I've posted pictures before about a jig for doing it, it really makes it much easier.

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

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Surrey Dave

posted on 7/2/05 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
FU

Never where two tubes so aptley named........
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JonBowden

posted on 7/2/05 at 05:05 PM Reply With Quote
My copy lists FU1 and FU2 as 12" (3rd line of text under the diagram on page 44 of the 2nd edition - or is this one of the misprints ?

Hope I'm not being dumb and missing something.

Jon

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Surrey Dave

posted on 7/2/05 at 05:13 PM Reply With Quote
From Memory.........

I believe if you follow the book and fit FU1 FU2 (like I did!) it makes it impossible to get the correct amount of caster angle without the susp brackets hanging dangerously off the side of the tube.

Its probably best to make up a jig for the geometry then fit the front brackets first.

And then fit FU1 and FU2 where the susp brackets will be central with the correct caster angle.


That's probably as clear as mud but I know what I mean!!!

no doubt someone will give a further description , good luck........

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David Jenkins

posted on 7/2/05 at 07:09 PM Reply With Quote
This was one of my "I wish I'd done it differently" topics!

After faffing around I wish I'd just tacked these pieces in place until the time came to fit the wishbone brackets. I fully welded them originally, then found that I had to move then a half-inch or so. Very frustrating!

David






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Mix

posted on 8/2/05 at 09:13 AM Reply With Quote
I actually went a stage further and left them out until I had made my wishbones.
Spend the time to make a decent jig for fitting the brackets / FU tubes as this is one of the more dimensionally critical areas of the chassis.

Mick

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blueshift

posted on 8/2/05 at 12:13 PM Reply With Quote
yep I've left mine off until fitting the suspension. I have modeled the chassis and front suspension in CAD and the tops of FU1/2 sit about 1/4" inboard of the edge of the top rail. but don't use that as a definitive measurement - fit them with a front suspension jig.
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RoadkillUK

posted on 8/2/05 at 06:58 PM Reply With Quote
We ended up grinding ours off and replacing them when we fit the brackets.

With hindsight I'd say leave them until you are welding on the brackets.





Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)

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kb58

posted on 8/2/05 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
Why can't a Locost owner just go out and measure it for him? I would but I don't own one... Is it different for each car?





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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kaymar

posted on 8/2/05 at 10:05 PM Reply With Quote
thaks to all the replys i will attempt to draw up ajig anyone who wishes to share there ideas for ajig feel free regards
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James

posted on 9/2/05 at 09:13 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kaymar
thaks to all the replys i will attempt to draw up ajig anyone who wishes to share there ideas for ajig feel free regards


Look in my archive in the folder orginally called: bracket jig.
Couple of pictures in there.

HTH,
James

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blueshift

posted on 9/2/05 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
due to slight differences in everyone's chassis: welding things in slightly different places, things filed to fit at slightly different lengths, and welding distortion (big factor), I would suggest it's a bad idea to fit FU1/2 by measurement and then bung on the brackets - better to fit the brackets where they should be with a jig and adjust FU1/2 to fit.

The brackets being in the right place are the important part for handling. it doesn't matter if the chassis is a bit skew wiff around them.

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