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Author: Subject: Amount of tubing?
Spottty

posted on 2/3/05 at 03:21 AM Reply With Quote
Amount of tubing?

Well, I am finnaly settled into the new house and I'm read to start the build. I have a donor picked out, just have to find a cheap one so i'm gonna get started on the chassis. Its gonna be Volvo powered. I know some people are moaning right now but the motors can be powerful. My 745 daily driver has about 180hp with very little mods (just more boost and exhuast).

I added it all up and it looks like I will need about 100 feet of 1x1 and 20 feet of 3/4 x 3/4. I am planing on a book chassis unless there is some major reason I should need bigger.

My Q is, is this enough steel tubing? and how should I get it cut? did you guys buy yours in 12 foot lengths?

Any tips on this part would be great! I dont want to start off on the wrong foot





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Spottty

posted on 2/3/05 at 03:55 AM Reply With Quote
I just did a quick measurment on the engine I will be using.

Its 27 heigh (could be 25-26 depending on how much I can move the oil pump up in the oil pan)
26 long and 22 width.

I looked at the plans and it should fit (may need a bunlge in the bonnet but I like that look anyways). Am I missing something here? I thought that engine was pretty big and I would need to modify something but by what it looks like, it should fit in a book chassis.

Also, any pro/con lists to the Book vs +4 chassis?





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clbarclay

posted on 2/3/05 at 08:06 AM Reply With Quote
I bought standard lengths and enogh to build the chassis straight off. Yes it does use that much, and if you can deal with 25 lenghts then don't bother getting it chop, its day light robbery.

No idea about volvo engine, but a +442 chassis would probably be better than a +4 because it extends both track, wheelbase and height of engine bay.


[Edited on 2/3/05 by clbarclay]






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James

posted on 2/3/05 at 11:10 AM Reply With Quote
Spottty,

Just add all the length in the book together and add 10% and you should be ok! The longer you buy and more intelligently you cut the less wastage there'll be. Make sure you cut as you need as opposed to cutting them all in one go as there are loads of mistakes in the book. Check http://www.mcsorley.net for a correct chassis cutting list.

As for height- that's pretty damn high! My Pinto tappet cover to sump is: 25.5" but I've cut 1" out of the sump to bring it down to 24.5".
Chassis is 13" tall and with sump 1" below that leaves 10.5" above. You can just about cover this with a set of GTS' 1" taller bodywork.
MK Sports Cars add an extra 1" of height into the engine bay area- but if you do this be careful not to alter the suspension geometry or there'll be loads of other problems!

As for you engine, speak to Volvorsport who posts on here a lot- he loves his Volvo engines and can get big power from them.

Hope that helps,
James





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Dale

posted on 2/3/05 at 03:00 PM Reply With Quote
I am not sure on the volvo engine but since i am using a turbo ford engine similar dimensions--but the sump would only save about .75 inches if cut(bell housing is low as well)-- I figure I can cut almost 4 inches off of the height of the engine by making a sheet metal intake instead of having the intakes cross over the valve cover.-- its also a good way to get the intakes flowing a bit better.
Dale

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Spottty

posted on 3/3/05 at 12:18 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the input guys! I will be using McSorley's plans. I might make it a +442 and give myself some extra room. Also, I would love to order the bodywork but shipping will kill me so I am gonna make my own. I might be able to clear it if the bulge is just right!

Dale, the volvo motor doesnt go over the valve cover but i want to make my own intake anyways, maybe bike throttle bodies. The stock one is at a weird angle and will help with clearance if replaced.
The big thing with the volvo motor is this really weird oilpan. It has a big ball on the bottom where the plug is. I think I should be able to modify the oil pickup pipe and take out about 2 inches.


Once again guys, Thanks!





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