natehall
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:23 AM |
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how much does a locost really cost ;)
well - ron champion says you can do it for £250 - and i really can not see that being possible 
did he miss a 0 off the end? what would a realistic budget be to build one? using a old oily pinto you may have lieing around, with a couple of sierra
uprights and using IRS
yes you guessed it - soon as my current project is fully trackworthy im building me a locost
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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flak monkey
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:27 AM |
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Mines currently cost me £4014.28 thats for all the major parts. Only things left are an exhaust system, seatbelts and headlights. Anything else is
little bits like p-clips, brake pipe fittings etc.
That building from a kit, most other parts have been sourced second hand.
Hoping to be on the road for around £5k. Time will tell 
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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omega0684
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:41 AM |
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im on about 10k at the moment for my DAX, but im buying a lot of stuff new.
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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joneh
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:42 AM |
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If you make your own chassis and buy the steel rather than nick it, I've worked out you can do it for under a grand, assuming you have all the
tools and you get a Cortina donor for around £300.
(thats the car made - not on the road)
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smart51
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:46 AM |
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The book title says £250 but in the second edition, the author qualifies this a bit. He says is was possible when the book was first written but
prices have gone up over 10 years, especially of escort donors. He says that he had to build quite a few to get the cost down that low and that it
was built almost entirley out of scavenged materials. Examples are free steel offcuts when a few long lengths are bought, aluminium cut from the side
of a scrap van, steel for the floor cut from the donor escort roof.
In practice, you are not going to do this because you want your car to be nice. You are going to pay for chassis paint and you are going to fit new
brake discs and a new oil filter.
£5000 for a book locost build isn't far from the mark.
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Marcus
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:47 AM |
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We did ours for 1500 each - on the road. Since then, I've spent another 7-800 on it, and there's still some stuff to do.
Still cheap motoring though.
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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natehall
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
The book title says £250 but in the second edition, the author qualifies this a bit. He says is was possible when the book was first written but
prices have gone up over 10 years, especially of escort donors. He says that he had to build quite a few to get the cost down that low and that it
was built almost entirley out of scavenged materials. Examples are free steel offcuts when a few long lengths are bought, aluminium cut from the side
of a scrap van, steel for the floor cut from the donor escort roof.
In practice, you are not going to do this because you want your car to be nice. You are going to pay for chassis paint and you are going to fit new
brake discs and a new oil filter.
£5000 for a book locost build isn't far from the mark.
all my donor parts are being sourced as free as i will be using sierra parts which if i have not got (unlikely as i cant seam to get rid of em)
then i can get for next to nothing - normally buy me a couple pints and take what you want. I currently have 2 drum back ends - only one for sale - a
couple sets of hubs - one set for sale a full steering column sourced for nothing and a propshaft i cant shift.
In my other project (sierra track toy) i have a pinto thats likely to come out and be replaced by a 2.1 pinto in the next couple of months - with a
geearbox - meaning i have almost a full kit
I already have a couple sorned V5's meaning i could get age related plate etc etc etc
All of the parts are in useable condition - so its unlikely i am going to waste money getting them rebuilt while they dont need it
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 11:26 AM |
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Surely the true cost of any locost is.
TFYTTW*2 + ALBEJIC
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natehall
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 11:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Surely the true cost of any locost is.
TFYTTW*2 + ALBEJIC
wtf 
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 11:39 AM |
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The figure you told the wife *2 + A little bit extra just in case. LOL
Hopefully for me around the 3 1/2 grand mark though.
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DavidM
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 11:55 AM |
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I spent about £3000 for the car, including rebuilding all of the oily bits and all new/recon brake components. £300 for tools, i.e. weding set, rivet
gun etc. £200 for SVA, registration and plates.
That's for a book built car.
Budget when I started in 2000 was £1300 + tools + OTR
Main thing I underestimated was the cost of all the minor elements, such as bolts, trim, bearings, and bits of hose etc. Towards the end I seemed to
be forever spending £5 here and £10 there.
David
Proportion is Everything
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 12:07 PM |
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£5500 ish for mine, but then (I guess a bit like Ned) I regarded the build as a way of getting something that had the performance and appearance of a
Ca*er*am HPC for a lot less money.
I know the locost chassis isn't as good, but I like the "pre-lit" westy look and the cater*am look, but I am not keen on the new big
wide sevens, as they are not really very sevenesque in my opinion.
£5500 is not locost, but it is cheaper than doing the equivalent westfield or other alternatives.
This little lot soon blows the £250 budget out of the window!!!!:
 
exhaust 2
[Edited on 8/6/06 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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muzchap
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 02:12 PM |
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I'm at about 6500 complete - including 'fancy' everything and SVA TEST and possible fail + insurance.
My original budget was £5k - but you just can't help spending!
I've got a lot of parts nickle plated - well as many as can be and everything is new (except engine and donor parts) but they have all been
reconditioned.
It can be done cheaper for sure - but the beauty of these cars is you can build it how you want to
------------------------------------
If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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Johnmor
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 05:25 PM |
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Sitting aroungd £6000,
Alfa v6 Viento, but just about finished, another 500 including SVA.
But its worth it!!!
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mark chandler
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 06:38 PM |
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I must be doing something wrong then, mines going to come in at £3000.
Mind you I,m making as much as I can so body & frame is under £300 for materials... engine £550 wheels £250 Seats £200, brakes £400, its the
hidden bits that add up.
You do end up with some nice tools, a lot of satisfaction and a disgruntled SWMBO so its not all bad !
Regards Mark
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 07:26 PM |
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I spent £2300 for the build and about £300 getting SVA'd and registered. I did have all the necessary tools, got some amazing deals, and had
access to a bodyshop!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 07:54 PM |
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I'm hoping to come under £1500 built. If I'm lucky this may get me on the road too. It all depends how patient you are and how willing to
make things. I'm quite patient and am learning how to make stufff from scratch, so this'll safe me a fortune. But will take much longer to
build.
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natehall
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 07:57 PM |
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i am not after a pristine kit car, not really bothered about all the bling, would rather have a car that feels good - and is fun to drive than a load
of bling
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 08:02 PM |
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As per my thinking. Shiny bits are nice, but cost more than something I've made and painted. The only bits I can't make that I don't
already have are the new brake parts, lights and a couple of gauges. Everything else is being built or modified from something cheap or free.
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907
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 08:43 PM |
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There seems to be at one end, "the build at almost any cost", and at the other end, "build as cheap as chips".
I suppose I fall in the middle. My trade enables me to make stuff, but then I do blow cash on other stuff.
A set of 5 wheels, my shocks, steering wheel, seats, and engine & gearbox, there's 2k for a start.
In saying that, the car stands at £3800 at the moment, with the only one major outlay to come, the sva.
Paul G
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:26 PM |
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If I had the money I would get the engine I want now. However, to spread the potential cost out a bit and so I get to learn my car I'm starting
with an 1800 cvh, rather than a tuned 3lt v6. Oh, and I forgot about the shocks. If I had the money, I'd buy some shiny/go faster bits, but I
have to persuade the swmbo first. And that ain't easy.
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Dale
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 10:16 PM |
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Bling is expensive but sweat is not. Time is either free or expensive depending on weather the the build is a hobby or build to schedule. An ultra
light racer I am sure would cost much more than a nice road car. I am at around $2200 Cnd or 1100# and I would not doubt if I double that by the
time I get bodywork/paint and tires.
Dale
Thanks
Dale
my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road
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natehall
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 11:08 PM |
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its very interesting how different the budgets are - id be aiming to build one (not sva etc) for about 2k maximum - with the outlay over several
sections - i have a feeling bodywork will be the most expensive
i dont know if this is realistic - but will be one hell of a challenge finding out
If it aint broke, uprate it
if it is broke, uprate it
http://www.modders-uk.co.uk
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kb58
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 12:51 AM |
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What you want to do with the car very much determines what it'll cost to build. If it's a track car and you want to win, it means light
weight wheels, sticky tires, and double-adjustable *good* quaility shocks. These items alone can be upward of $4000-$5000...
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Fred W B
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| posted on 9/6/06 at 06:26 AM |
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I keep a spreadsheet list of all the money I have spent on parts and materials, and have a cell at the bottom where I divide the total by the number
of months I have been working on the car. At the moment the monthly average figure is about SAR 1 800 (about UKPounds 145).This make me feel a bit
better about the R50 000 I have in a car on which almost nothing is finished at the moment!
I do have almost all the mechanical bits, including some expensive parts like:
MSD ignition system
Electric water pump
Willwood brake parts
Full set guages
Custom machining of flywheel
Aluminium Coil Overs
Custom aluminium machined parts
13 row oil cooler, oil thermostat + remote filter mount parts
Sabelt seat belts
I also cheat by not including consumables like spray cans of paint, masking tape etc, and no tools.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 9/6/06 by Fred W B]
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