006
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:53 AM |
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Saying hi, and a few questions :)
Hi there, this is my first post here, my name is Mike. I saw a small article in Car&Driver magazine today at the place I was getting my oil
changed about the book by Ron Champion called "Build Your Own Sports Car for 250" and was immediately interested.
Right now we have a 68 Chevy Camaro SS in the garge being restored, body painted, interior completely redone, waiting for the 350 to arrive from my
uncle's place so we can put that plus the Muncie in and get it rollin'. Really exciting. The we have a 65 Ford Mustang coupe to do,
it's in really bad shape though so I'm thinking we'll have quite a bit of time in between these two cars to do a Locost.
I did some research, and found out that there are variants on the different styles of Locosts, as well as different donors to choose from. I really
want to do this as I've always wanted to do a Shelby A/C Cobra kit car but never got around to scrounging up the cash for such a vehicle. This
seems like a really good alternative, and it's not bad looking either! 
I have two styles in mind, that I want to blend. Here are two pictures that I'm using for reference:
and
The second picture is what I want the overall exterior to look like. I want the seats in the style of the first one, as well as the exhaust
(can't see the exhaust on the second picture). I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can find specific info on the second car, like who
made it, if there's a page somewhere dedicated to it, where I can find the mirrors and headlights used on it, etc. Also, the first picture,
where the seats came from. I know the first pic is from MK Engineering in the UK, so I'm sure I could e-mail him.
Moving on...I'm in the United States, Texas to be exact. What kind of donor car should I look for? I want my car to be a daily driver, but still
have great performance if I want to goof around or show off or anything. I'm a speed demon at heart, but a law abiding citizen on the outside,
haha, so I have my moments every now and then.
Also, what is the general cost to do one of these? How much is it typically to have someone weld the frame together for you? That's the only
thing I can't do, is weld. Everything else, peice of cake, we have tons of tools for putting together cars, we've done quite a few here in
the garage.
Wow, that's a long post, haha. Hope to get one started and join the ranks here soon
~006
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 03:05 AM |
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Welcome.................
1) I'm sure a builder from your side of the duck pond will be along to advise on a typical donor for you too build around.
2) In the UK an "book" car can be built from 1-2 Łk too a good standard, there is no upper limit really its down too sourcing parts and
what parts used.
Most people over here would either build and weld there own chassis or buy a chassis already built, it wouldn't really be cost effective too cut
the steel yourself then have it welded as a built chassis is pretty cheap over here anyway.
There of plenty of very nice looking cars over here built by builders whom like you couldn't weld, they can now.
All a bit vague maybe answer wise but your on your way with a little food for thought.
cheers J.
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Macbeast
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 04:36 AM |
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"properties" on the second pic says it's a Dax 7. Try www.daxcars.co.uk.
Best of luck
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locostv8
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 05:10 AM |
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I'll try to answer several questions.
I can't do electric welding due to a pacemaker/defibulator. With several projects I have had someone come over to my shop to do the welding, I
have a fairly large Lincoln stick/TIG/MIG welder, and now the 7 and have generally paid them $10 hr.
My build is a bit OTT basically Fox based with a little MN12, Explorer, F150, and Cobra thrown in for good measure. The basic specs are roller
392(351), T5, MII front, 8.8 IRS rear, Cobra brake system, 95 R 17s 9" front and 10.5 rear using 25540 and 315 35. It will have power steering,
hydro boost (possibly ABS), cruise control (ticket avoidance), a hart top (eventually, and Air. The chassis will be based on a 96" wb and
probably +6 width. Shooting for about 1600 lb.
A probably more reasonable car could be built using the MN12 Tbird Super Coupe and nearly everything should be able to be taken from the same donor
car which with a bit of looking should be able to find around $500 and you should be able to Ebay some of the leftovers. The SC has a blown steel
block alloy head V6, T5, 8.8 IRS, 4WDB, and you can find nice wheels for reasonable. If you drive in a spirited manner this build should be less
likely to get you in jail or dead.
Check out http://locostusa.com/forums/index.php
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
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chrisj
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 07:32 AM |
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Their was a recent article in a UK Kit Car magazine about a lotus 7 style manufacturer in the US creating very low weight hi spec seven kits.
If you can find them and utilise your small block chevy experience you should be onto a winner.
Very satisfying if not expensive.
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caber
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:04 AM |
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Here is a link on Amazon to a book about buiding a Locost in America using a mazda Miata as a donor. It is a very helpful addition to Ron
Champion's book and has a lot of useful contacts for you.
linky
Caber
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nitram38
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:07 AM |
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One of the problems with the book built car is the lack of castor in the top front wishbones.
Do a search here for the solution
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locostv8
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:08 AM |
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That would probably be the Stalker. It uses a 3.8 blower Buick and S10 fruck bits. A car built on the MN12 would be higher spec and much less
expensive.
BTW the car I'm building by being frugal/cheap should come in at $3000 by using everything from the MN12 you should be able to do better.
[Edited on 9/7/06 by locostv8]
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
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ReMan
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 10:43 AM |
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Was just reading about these in the mag this morning www.wcmultralite.com too.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 10:57 AM |
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The second picture is very like the car that Busarush on here has just built (and passed SVA).
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006
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:36 PM |
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Ok....wow! I can't believe all of the help I'm getting already! Thanks a million guys. Ok, so I'm going to basically need to order a
DAX kit and frame then?
My main concern is legroom and elbow room. I would like to take my fiance out in this thing every once in a while, but for the most part it'll
be my daily driver unless it's raining, in which case I'll need to take my Mini (yes I have a Mini :-P). I'm 5' 11-1/2"
tall, and my fiance is 5' 6" tall. She's very fit and skinny and all that, I'm about 275 lbs, and on my frame I'm a bit
husky. The Mini isn't all that bad inside, it's surprisingly roomy. I was hoping to find out that I could widen the frame a little in the
cockpit area, and make sure the length could be made long enough in it as well so that adjustable seats could be put in. Is this all possible?
Now for donors....like I said, I want something suitable enough for daily driver use, but also has a great deal of performance up it's sleeve.
Are there any 4 cyl. cars I should be looking for? Fuel injected or carburated? I would like something that has a turbo, or could have a turbo
installed on it.
I will be checking out those USA forums so that I can source parts closer to home and make it easier on myself, but this place has already shown me
great welcome, so I'll definitely be frequenting here.
Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it
~006
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:42 PM |
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if a 4 cylinger turbo is what you want, im guessing 200sx turbo isnt a bad place to start. There are loads of these in america arent there? rwd as
standard and it has been done before, for ease of installation, plus loads of tuning potential.
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006
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:44 PM |
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Also, what about motorcycle engine powered Locosts? Are they ideal for daily use? What kind of donor should I look for on the engine? It seems really
difficult to go that route becuase the transmission stuff is all different....However I did catch a video with a Locost powered by a Hayabusa engine,
haha, pretty cool stuff.
~006
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006
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:45 PM |
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I was just thinking the same thing about a 200SX. Yes, they are in great abundance over here, and are highly tunable. Woohoo!
~006
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 02:47 PM |
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i would have to say most becs arent ideal daily drivers - infact, most kit cars arent!! I think that regular town driving would take its toll on a
bike clutch, plus to be honest, i think bike engined cars are too fast to drive to the shops etc, my neighbours will be well pissed off with the noise
and pretty poor driving. A car engined vehicle will be much easier to drive normally.
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caber
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 03:15 PM |
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Sounds like you want to build a slightly bigger car. I would suggest the McSorely plans are worth a look. I do thinkl you should consider learning to
weld once you get into it it is an amazingly theraputic activity. Certainly working on a locst frame is a god place to get practice the material is
cheap so if you screw up it is easy to cut out the dud part and weld in a new piece. Check locally for welding classes and get a feel for your
preffered technique, I strte with Gas and now am using TIG some people prefer Mig as it is very quick and once your machine is set up it is a fast
production process. The frame build will take a while but will allow you to customise to a great extent, once you have read forum posts and other
people's build diarys on the web you will get to see how straight forward it is.
Best of Luck!
Caber
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JoelP
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 05:50 PM |
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id have to agree with caber on the advantages of learning to weld. It does depend on your caracter though, if you know that you tend to give up
when stuck, its probably best to buy a chassis. Likewise, if driving is the priority rather than the fun of building it, a manufacturers chassis is
probably the way forward.
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kb58
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 06:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 006
....However I did catch a video with a Locost powered by a Hayabusa engine, haha, pretty cool stuff.
~006
Be aware the Hayabusa will need a drysump oil system... $2000 just for that. Instead consider the R1 which doesn't.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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006
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| posted on 9/7/06 at 08:37 PM |
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Well, I don't plan on using a motorcycle engine, seems too complicated to make everything work. And since I really don't even feel
inclined to sort of feel like I want to learn how to weld, I think I will be going with the Brunton
Automotive SuperStalker V6 with the 3800 Pontiac/Buick supercharged engine. Very pricey...but the performance is insane. Hmm...it's double
the cost of the regular 3.4L Stalker. I will not be taking this car to the track at all...as I said it'll be a daily driver unless it
rains...which is very odd around here. I'm wondering how much performance can really be expected out of the 3.4L Chevy engine...as in, 0-60
times, 1/4 mile times, hp and torque...anyone know?
I just don't want to pull up to a stoplight, and some punk in a Mustang GT that his daddy bought for him to start revving, and then I
can't beat him. Especially this being a car that I will be building myself. Would hurt my "ego" and my pride since my car
would've been beaten...and I built it. :lol:
Thoughts?
~006
[Edited on 9/7/06 by 006]
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leto
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| posted on 10/7/06 at 05:10 AM |
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Seven type car are not the best drag racers. Problems with grip at lower speeds and drag at higher. You will be quicker than most at the traffic
lights but not invincible. On a every day car your options to increase grip are limited so more power will not do much good. Lower weight usually has
a better effect.
On a curvy road however......... but I guess they are extinct in the US. 
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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006
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| posted on 10/7/06 at 05:22 AM |
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Maybe you should visit Texas...we have lots of open roads around here that will satisfy any driver's desire for twists and turns. I bet you
think I'm a cowboy too? Not quite sure why people think there's no countryside left in the states here...maybe you should do some
research? No negative intention with my comments.
~006
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wilkingj
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| posted on 10/7/06 at 06:10 AM |
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If you want a slightly bigger car that will take a real V8, then consider the Luego Viento Chassis. The LV350 Chassis is spec'd to take 5.7
Chevvy's and the like, plus its got a bigger cockpit, and will easily accomodate fat buggers like me (19 Stones, and my Son who is 6ft 5"
and 20 Stones. We can get in with not bother at all. Whereas a Locost Book size is a bit of a squeeze. (It's not the Locosts fault!!)
It will also take straight 6 BMW's,
Mmm Think what a M series Beamer engine in there would do for you.
I have a Rover v8 (Buick 215) in mine, and ist a super car / set up.
Luego Website
Have a look in my archives and my website for some piccies.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Alan B
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| posted on 10/7/06 at 02:05 PM |
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006, I have been in the Super Stalker...it is absolutely mind blowingly quick.
In my opinion it really isn't too expensive because it is really well developed....customer build-up problems and snags are close to
zero...speak with anyone who has built one..they will concur.
BTW, yes I do know Dennis Brunton quite well, but I give the Stalker two thumbs way up only because it has earned them.
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tks
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| posted on 11/7/06 at 11:18 AM |
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Pace Maker
Isn´t it a bit dangerous?
When i drove my car for the first couple a times i came home/ in the bar with 200beats atleast...
not to scary you in anyway offcourse...
does the fact pace maker makes inductonal noise dangerous like the high current in the welding machines?
anyway Welcome 006!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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kreb
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| posted on 11/7/06 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Well, I don't plan on using a motorcycle engine, seems too complicated to make everything work. And since I really don't even feel
inclined to sort of feel like I want to learn how to weld, I think I will be going with the Brunton Automotive SuperStalker V6 with the 3800
Pontiac/Buick supercharged engine. Very pricey...but the performance is insane. Hmm...it's double the cost of the regular 3.4L Stalker. I will
not be taking this car to the track at all...as I said it'll be a daily driver unless it rains...which is very odd around here. I'm
wondering how much performance can really be expected out of the 3.4L Chevy engine...as in, 0-60 times, 1/4 mile times, hp and torque...anyone know?
I've got a 3.4 Stalker, and it's damn near all one can handle up to 70 MPH or so, impressive, but not stellar from 70 to 100, and then
aerodynamics more or less emasculate you until you run out of go-power at 120 or so. I've never gone to the strip, but would guess it's
specs to be 0-60 in a tad over 4 sec, and a 1/4 mile a touch over 13.
The Super Stalker is a pretty amazing beast, not just because of sheer grunt (low 11's in the 1/4 mile and 150+ MPH terminal velocity), but
everyone who has one says that the engine is as perfectly mannered as a upmarket sedan around town.
I think that you may have your prices off. A supercharged 3.8 doesn't cost much more than a 3.4, and doesn't require that you buy fancy
cams, intake manifolds and the like to get it up to speed. The primary differences in price are the custom chip, harness, flywheel and bell housing. I
forget the cost of those items, but what are we talking about? 3 grand? If you end up spending $12 to $15k on the build, another 20 percent to get you
125 more HP and 100 ft. lbs. as well as better driveability seems like a pretty decent deal. In addition, I'd bet that you'd get the
entire amount back on resale. (Provided you don't kill yourself! )
https://www.supercars.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/1966_FiatAbarth_1000SP1.jpg
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