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Author: Subject: Designing a chassis
StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
Designing a chassis

Now that my Indy is nowhere near complete and there's a long way to go, I'm thinking about the next project!

I'm planning for the next one to be done over a much longer period, and would like to design the chassis myself. I want to do the locost thing, but I also like the idea of inboard damping etc.

Where's the best place to start, apart from the obvious reading lots of books, websites and threads on here (such as what software would be useful etc.)

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MattCraneCustoms

posted on 22/10/06 at 05:50 PM Reply With Quote
If you want a book to start reading, you want to get racing and sports car chassis design by Michael Costin, who I believe is the 'Cos' of Cosworth. Thatll keep you busy and teach you the fundamentals that need to be considered in chassis design
Regards
Matt

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
Tad privey that one - £130 on Amazon

I have some ideas from doing mechanical engineering at A Level - I just need a way of assessing the suitability (CAD modelling or something?)

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DIY Si

posted on 22/10/06 at 06:53 PM Reply With Quote
If you do find some cheap books on this let me know, as I'm looking into doing the same, but with a lola/canam type thing. As with you, I know some/most of the basics, but only want to do it once.





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
It's more a case of having a great idea, but wondering why it's not more commonly done.

I admire you going for something a bit ambitious - I'll be sticking to the se7en type and probably trying to have it conveniently sized to fit standard bodywork from the mainstay suppliers

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flak monkey

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
Start with designing your suspension geometry then work on designing your chassis to connect the point up and be fully triangulated. Its not a black art, once you know the rules, its pretty easy to design a chassis that will work. Where the skill comes is in designing a stiff chassis with very little weight.

A good book on suspension was written by Miliken cant remember the title of the book now though.

David





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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DIY Si

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
I don't suppose you'd be willing to let us in on this "great idea"? Someone here should be able to help/advise on it.
And if it's really good, I might even be able to pinch it for use in mine!
Oh, having read the cymtriks plans for a stronger chassis, and how easy it would be to add most of them and double chassis stiffness, I'm suprised more people don't use them.

[Edited on 22/10/06 by DIY Si]





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

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Confused but excited.

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
Tad privey that one - £130 on Amazon



Do you mean that's a sh1t price?

Probably a bit uncool in these days of t' web, but have you ever thought of booking it out of a public library?





Tell them about the bent treacle edges!

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
Tad privey that one - £130 on Amazon



Do you mean that's a sh1t price?

Probably a bit uncool in these days of t' web, but have you ever thought of booking it out of a public library?


Would do, but I'm crap at taking things back!

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 07:59 PM Reply With Quote
The big idea?

Inboard rear suspension. There's probably a reason we don't see it anywhere, but apart from the practicality of losing boot space (bovered, me, am I?), I can't see what wouldn't work.

Apart from that, I want to use a lot more triangulation, round tube and structural panels (like the transmission tunnel - made with a small amount of framing, but using thicker, one piece ali rather than thin panels).

Like I said, nothing that won't have been done before, but it'll be my own and different (and probably crap as well!).

Might even consider mid engine

[Edited on 22/10/06 by StevieB]

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 08:15 PM Reply With Quote
Maybe something like this at the rear. The upper wishbone could be made using tube with threaded bits to give adjustability (if it'd be safe/stong enough) Rescued attachment Rear suspension.jpg
Rescued attachment Rear suspension.jpg

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DIY Si

posted on 22/10/06 at 08:39 PM Reply With Quote
Certainly can't see why that wouldn't work. One reason for not manufacturing such a thing could be the extra expense/complication involved. As a one off you already have to make everything so you can do what you wish. You could also adapt that slightly to have adjustable ride height etc as you would at the front with inboard gear. As said, for a manufacturer, maybe not worth the effort, but for you......





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
You'd make the wishbone in 3 pieces, and but a threaded adjuster on the red bar (as shown). It'll be 3 dimentional as well for strenght/stability (but I don't have the patience to sketch that bit out yet!)

The only thing I'd worry about would be extra weight, but there are places to save that and, if it works, the benefits should outweigh the, er, weight.

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StevieB

posted on 22/10/06 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
Forgot the piccy version 2 Rescued attachment Rear suspension.jpg
Rescued attachment Rear suspension.jpg

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DIY Si

posted on 22/10/06 at 09:55 PM Reply With Quote
You'd have to be careful adjusting that too much, as you'll lose some of the pre-load on the springs. Otherwise look good, if it an be made strong enough.





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

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NS Dev

posted on 23/10/06 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
there's always the question of why???

(as there is also the one of why not!!! )

Inboard give much scope for cock up as well as gain!

rather than just doing boggo inboard like that I would look at some good handling race cars and get some ideas from there.

I looked at the back of my mate's Ducati (guess a lot of bikes are the same though) at the double acting rear shock and thought it would be a great way of improving damping using cheap shocks, patting myself on the back at the good idea, then looked at a Radical and realised they did it years ago!!! lol !!!!

Seriously though, pushrodded double acting shocks are nifty engineering that is worth having if you are saving on the shocker budget.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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StevieB

posted on 23/10/06 at 09:02 AM Reply With Quote
The answer to the question is the 'why not' option.

I'm half way through an Indy build and the ideas keep coming while I'm working on the chassis, looking at parts and deciding that a better way must be possible.

The idea is just to do something a little different. The idea in the sketch above is just a basic one - that's why I was asking about research sources and aftware to do some modelling.

I'd already decided that a pushrod set-up allows a bit more freedom in placing the shockers.

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iank

posted on 23/10/06 at 12:26 PM Reply With Quote
Looks like you've re-invented the Sylva inboard suspension.

Here it is on the R1ot


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kb58

posted on 23/10/06 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
As far as books go, check out my list: Kurt's book list

If there's one book I recommend most it's Staniforth's "Competition Car Suspension."

That front suspension above is very similar to that on my Mini.

[Edited on 10/23/06 by kb58]





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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Alan B

posted on 23/10/06 at 02:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by iank
Looks like you've re-invented the Sylva inboard suspension.



Or mine......





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StevieB

posted on 23/10/06 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
I know it's been done before - I fully confess to being a rip off artist!

I just thought it would be a bit different to do it in the rear (oo-er!) of a se7en as well as the front.

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iank

posted on 23/10/06 at 03:31 PM Reply With Quote
Well with suspension everyone has been a rip off artist for decades

Not seen rockers on rear suspension, but I suspect that is more of a packaging issue (in that it will eat any boot space) than anything else.

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Alan B

posted on 23/10/06 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by iank
Well with suspension everyone has been a rip off artist for decades

Not seen rockers on rear suspension, but I suspect that is more of a packaging issue (in that it will eat any boot space) than anything else.


There you go....

From a sports racer....



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Syd Bridge

posted on 23/10/06 at 03:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by iank.............
Not seen rockers on rear suspension, but I suspect that is more of a packaging issue ...............


Open wheelers and sportscars have been doing it for 20 years and more. So have Ferrari on some of their road cars.

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StevieB

posted on 23/10/06 at 03:56 PM Reply With Quote
I'm not really bothered about boot space -planning it to be a sprint/hillclimb/race car, so just want a good chassis and lightweight thta handles
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