James
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 posted on 29/8/03 at 03:09 PM |
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Chassis Preparation
Right, it's time to paint the chassis- been putting it off for ages but need to bite the bullet I guess.
I believe I've got to do the following:
1. wire brush entire chassis to remove rust, weld debris etc
2. rub down chassis with meths' to remove grease
3. rub down chassis with white spirit to remove meths residue
4. paint with red oxide undercoat
This all strikes me as a right pain in the arse- is there something else I can use to do steps 2&3 as one?
Thanks,
James
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 03:47 PM |
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celly thinners on a rag will get all the grease etc off,and you can sniff the rest(cheaper than beer)
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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James
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
celly thinners on a rag will get all the grease etc off,and you can sniff the rest(cheaper than beer)
Can I paint the Red Oxide on top of that though?
Thanks,
James
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 04:48 PM |
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Yes, it will evaporate off in seconds, leaving no residue. When degreasing, remember to wipe the thinners on with one cloth and wipe off the disolved
grase with another.
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James
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Yes, it will evaporate off in seconds, leaving no residue. When degreasing, remember to wipe the thinners on with one cloth and wipe off the disolved
grase with another.
Okay guys- thanks!
What a fun weekend it's going to be! 
James
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 05:45 PM |
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Paint
We spoke at the last ' Newlands ' the paint I used on my chassis was :
Jenolite Re- Paint Coach Enamel (Satin Black) from Halfords.
You can use a radiator roller you dont get loads of brush marks then............see ya
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Hugh Paterson
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 07:54 PM |
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Hmmmmm try painting it with grey oxide instead of the red if you are hand brushing it on.
Shug
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craig1410
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| posted on 29/8/03 at 10:18 PM |
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james,
Have you seen that rotary twisted wire brush thing for the angle grinder which someone on this list recommended?
I can vouch for it being very effective and is great for cleaning up rusty cast parts such as Sierra hub rear carriers. It really gets into the nooks
and crannies and is ideal for cleaning up welds. I'd recommend a grinder mounted flap disc to use lightly(!) on the bulk of the chassis and it
should give a good key.
I'm almost at the same stage and intend to use etch primer followed by Dulux weathershield for a nice hard finish. I like the idea of the
radiator roller although the Dulux Weathershield stays "wet" long enough to flow nicely even off the brush. I did my trailing arms and
panhard rod as a test piece and the finish is like glass!
Good luck!
Craig.
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rell
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 posted on 16/9/03 at 12:26 PM |
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You can't beet shot blasting for preping
I will probably cost you about £50
but the pitted finish is a good key
for the paint. all so it sort of helps to
protect aganst fatigue cracks.
THE ONLY THING IS YOU NEED TO MAKE
SURE NO GRIT GETS IN THE TUBES
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type 907
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| posted on 16/9/03 at 07:24 PM |
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Hi James
For the odd one or two things I do paint (smug grin) I degrease with "Tetrosyl Panel Wipe". Its what spray shops use prior to spraying.
Local motor factors all stock it.
Paul
Too much is just enough
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thekafer
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| posted on 16/9/03 at 11:11 PM |
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POR-15
You guys ever use any of the POR-15 products?The have a degreaser called marine clean thats really good.And metal conditioner called metal-prep thats
a good anti corrosion/paint prep.
finally POR-15 Chassis Coat,requires no primer,no mixing so forth,reacts with the moisture in the air to cure.And best of all it's bullet
proof!good stuff.did my bus with it!
Fletch 
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy...
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 17/9/03 at 10:53 AM |
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Did mine with it. Costs a lot more over here though.
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James
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| posted on 7/10/03 at 04:35 PM |
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BTTT
Well, 2 months after I posted I've finally got it undercoated! Massive progress... 
Anyway, I've undercoated using Screwfix's Red Oxide stuff. Seems really good was a bit thick and left brush marks so I thinned it with
about 10% white spirit and it's gone on a treat and seems pretty hard. The Tool (wire brush on grinder) has trouble getting just a single coat
off!!!
Anyway, it's had 2 coats now so I'm wondering it that's enough before I attack it with some gloss top coat or whether more coats of
undercoat would be beneficial/preferable? Areas like the floor I've definately give a third coat but is it worth doing this all over?
Thanks,
James
P.S. If it has any bearing I'll probably just use some Homebase gloss for the top coat- but I know that with gloss you can only really give one
coat so that'll be it.
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JoelP
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| posted on 7/10/03 at 05:28 PM |
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easy james, good progress! what did you end up degreasing with? im at that stage in a few weeks/month. just a few more steps to go!
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James
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| posted on 7/10/03 at 08:21 PM |
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Anglegrinder wire brushed (The Tool! ) entire thing with 'flat' brush for all the tubes and then used the cup shaped one for the floor.
Used a hand wire brush and tooth brush sized wire brush for all the corners and fiddly bits.
Then cleaned the whole thing with cellulose thinners which seemed to do the job! Hint: keep garage door open as it's pretty fumey!
I then painted which seemed to take an unbelievably long time! I think I spent 3 evenings brushing,cleaning and putting on the first coat!
Cheers,
James
P.S. Just to warn everyone- please wear goggles and thick gloves when using The Tool! With the brush it can 'kick' off the chassis and
jump onto your fingers or feet or something! I've been wearing thick welding gauntlets and have made a mess of them with the grinder in several
places! I also cut through my shoe laces on one occasion when it jumped from my hands! 
Must've been the cell'y thinners fumes!
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 7/10/03 at 09:54 PM |
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lol nice one james.....
thats one way of removing shoes
Ben
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JoelP
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 06:54 PM |
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BTTT
someone a while ago mentioned a primer that could be applied over rust cos it breaks down the rust. Anyone remember what it was? im gonna have trouble
getting all the rust of some components ya see...
just though id post it on this thread so i could find it easier next time!
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 07:10 PM |
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isnt it kurust or sumat similar,smaller bits you could try the bubble bath thing with soda chrystals
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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blueshift
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 08:50 PM |
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wasn't it said of the por15 metal prep stuff that it eats rust?
we want some of that.. but dunno where's cheap to get it :/
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malcolmstoddart
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 09:14 PM |
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for cleaning the chassis you could try "safety solvent" or "trichloroethylene" or "tri-clean" you really do need
to keep the doors open cos you WILL be wasted..but I agree that for a good clean smooth preparation "shot blasting" is the way to go, and
if you go to a big place you will generally find that they will blow over the chassis with a primer for you for a few quid extra...
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JoelP
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 09:27 PM |
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shot blasting sounds like a good idea, unfortunately im a tight arse. suppose theres 'always coca-cola'!
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craig1410
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| posted on 11/12/03 at 09:48 PM |
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I've got an acid mix called "Adamatic Descaler" which is primarily used to clean Aluminium. However, I believe that it also cleans
rust as it has phosphoric acid in it which is the active ingredient in most of the "rust eater" type products.
One of the trade names for rust eater is "Jenolite" which is a purple gell which you paint on and leave to let the rust go black. You can
speed up the process using wire wool and this also gives a better finish. You used to have to wash the stuff off afterwards with water but this
isn't necessary now apparently.
Cheers,
Craig.
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